Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
When people look for knitted elastic for jackets, they usually mean one of two solutions: a rib knit (elastic knitted fabric) sewn on as a cuff, collar or hem band, or an elastic tape threaded through a channel at the cuffs, waist or hood. Ribbing gives the classic bomber jacket look, while channel elastic is lighter, cheaper and suits windbreakers, sports jackets and childrenswear.
Rib knit or elastic tape
Both are often simply called "elastic", but technically they are different products.
Rib knit
Ribbing is a tubular or flat knit with an elastic structure (usually 1×1 or 2×2 rib), often with elastane knitted in. It is cut or knitted into finished cuffs and bands of a set height and sewn onto the sleeve or hem as a separate component. The rib is visible, shapes the silhouette and is usually in the jacket colour or in contrast stripes.
Elastic tape
Elastic tape is a narrow stretch tape from a few millimetres to several centimetres wide – for example knitted elastic or woven elastic. It is threaded through a channel formed by a hem or sewn directly to the inside of the jacket. From the outside you only see the gathered fabric; the elastic itself stays hidden.
Where elastic tape is used in a jacket
| Area | Solution | Approximate width |
|---|---|---|
| Sleeve cuffs | Channel elastic or inner cuff | 15–25 mm |
| Hem / waist | Channel elastic, partial or full | 20–35 mm |
| Hood edge | Narrow elastic or cord with stopper | 8–15 mm |
| Inner snow cuffs | Narrow elastic in a hem | 10–15 mm |
| Lightweight windbreaker | Narrow elastic at cuffs and hem | 10–20 mm |
Knitted or woven elastic for jackets
In outerwear, elastic works under more strain than in underwear – the sleeve is pushed up, the hem stretches when you bend, and the jacket itself is washed less often but is heavier. This leads to some practical rules:
- Knitted elastic – suitable for lightweight jackets, windbreakers, sweatshirts, children's jackets and inner cuffs. It is soft and does not scratch the wrist.
- Woven elastic – better for heavy jackets, workwear and wide channels where knitted elastic may roll. It keeps its width when stretched.
- Elastic in a partial channel – at the hem the elastic is often only at the back or the sides, while the front stays flat. The elastic is then secured with bar stitches at the ends of the channel.
Sweatshirts, gilets and sports tops
On sweatshirts and sports tops the cuffs and hem are most often ribbed, but models with a turned hem and hidden elastic are increasingly common, especially in lightweight technical fabrics. Soft knitted elastic is the natural choice there, because it does not stiffen the edge or irritate the wrist. On lined gilets, elastic is placed at the armholes or hem only when the pattern requires a close fit. In these cases it helps to have the elastic in the lining colour so that it is not visible when the gilet is open.
Hood: elastic or cord
Hoods can be finished with a narrow elastic in the edge channel or with a cord adjusted with cord stoppers. Elastic is simpler to use and needs no adjustment, while a cord allows a tighter fit in the wind. For children's jackets, the requirements of EN 14682 for cords in the head and neck area must be observed – for the youngest, elastic is often the safer solution.
How to choose elastic for jacket cuffs
- Decide whether the cuff will be a visible rib, hidden channel elastic or an inner cuff.
- For a channel, choose an elastic 2–4 mm narrower than the channel.
- Set the length – the hand must pass through freely and the cuff must not squeeze the wrist.
- Check the tension by pulling the sleeve up repeatedly.
- Choose a colour that does not show through thin fabrics – on light jackets the elastic should be tone-on-tone.
How to insert elastic into a jacket channel
The channel is formed by a hem or by a separate strip of lining. The elastic is pulled through an opening in the channel with a bodkin or safety pin, the ends are overlapped and stitched, and the opening is closed. In series production it is more common to sew the elastic to the hem while stretched using a cover stitch and then turn it. This method prevents the elastic from twisting and is faster.
On lined jackets the elastic is often sewn between the shell fabric and the lining only at the back of the hem. Its ends are caught in the side seams, which gives a secure fixing and even gathering.
Common mistakes with jacket elastic
- Wide knitted elastic in a loose channel – it rolls and the cuff looks uneven.
- Elastic too short in the cuff – it leaves a mark on the wrist and makes dressing difficult.
- Dark elastic under a light, thin fabric – it shows through.
- Unsecured elastic ends in a partial channel – the elastic pulls out after washing.
Elastics and jacket trims from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery and garment accessories. We supply knitted and woven elastic in various widths and colours, cords, cord stoppers, zips and other trims for outerwear, with delivery across the EU. Send us the jacket model and the details you need via the inquiry form – we will suggest a set of trims and samples.
