Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
If you are wondering how eyelets are set, the process has four steps: mark the position, punch a hole matching the diameter of the eyelet barrel, insert the eyelet from the right side and the washer from the wrong side, then set the barrel with pliers, a hand setter and a hammer, or a press. The barrel opens out and rolls over the washer, clamping the material between the two parts. The result is a strong, smooth hole that does not fray.
What an eyelet consists of
A standard metal eyelet has two parts:
- Eyelet (male part) – a ring with a flange (the visible front part) and a tubular barrel that passes through the material.
- Washer – a flat or slightly domed washer placed on the wrong side. The barrel rolls over it.
There are also eyelets without a washer, where the barrel rolls directly onto the material. They are smaller and are used on thin fabrics and decorative holes. You will find more about the differences in our eyelets catalogue.
Which tools you need
- Hand eyelet pliers – for small sizes and small quantities, handy at home and in an atelier.
- Hole punch – a hollow punch with the diameter of the barrel, struck with a hammer on a rubber or plastic base.
- Setting kit – an anvil (lower die) with a recess for the flange and an upper setter that opens the barrel when struck with a hammer.
- Hand or bench press – with dies for the specific eyelet size; gives a consistent result in series work.
- Automatic machine – in garment and footwear factories, with automatic eyelet feed.
How to set eyelets – step by step
- Mark the position. Mark the centre of the hole with chalk or a washable marker. For several eyelets, use a template so that they are equally spaced.
- Reinforce the material. On thin and stretchy fabrics, fuse or sew interfacing on the wrong side. It protects the hole from tearing.
- Punch the hole. Place the material on a base and punch with a punch whose diameter equals the outer diameter of the barrel. On fabric you can cut a small cross, but a round hole gives a cleaner result.
- Insert the eyelet. Push the barrel through the hole from the right side. It should fit snugly without tearing the edges.
- Fit the washer. On the wrong side, place the washer on the barrel the right way up (usually the domed side towards the material, unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise).
- Set it. Place the eyelet flange-down in the anvil, insert the setter into the barrel and strike with the hammer 2–3 times firmly. With pliers or a press – press all the way.
- Check. The eyelet should not turn freely, the barrel should be rolled evenly all the way round without cracks, and the material should be smooth around it.
How to choose the hole size and barrel
The two most important parameters are the hole diameter and the barrel height:
| Situation | Result | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| The hole is larger than the barrel | The eyelet turns and may fall out | Punch a smaller hole or choose a larger eyelet |
| The hole is smaller than the barrel | The material bunches and splits | Use a punch with the correct diameter |
| The barrel is too long | The barrel crushes unevenly | Add a layer of material or choose a shorter barrel |
| The barrel is too short | Not enough to roll over, the eyelet does not hold | Choose an eyelet with a taller barrel |
As a guide: the barrel should protrude above the material and washer just enough to roll over evenly. For thick canvas or leather, choose models with a taller barrel.
Setting eyelets in different materials
Thin fabrics
Always reinforce with interfacing or fold the fabric into two or three layers. Choose small eyelets with or without a washer. Do not use an overly wide flange that will weigh the fabric down.
Denim, corduroy and heavy fabrics
Interfacing is usually not needed. Use eyelets with a washer and a barrel matched to the thickness of the seam.
Leather
The hole is made with a punch, never cut with scissors. Leather does not fray but it is stiff, so the barrel should be slightly taller.
Canvas, vinyl and banners
Larger eyelets with a wide flange are used, often with a folded or reinforced edge of the material. For many holes a press is recommended.
Setting eyelets in series production
In a garment factory, eyelets are usually set after cutting and before the final assembly of the pieces, while the piece is flat and easy to position. The positions are marked with a template or punched directly with the press if it has a built-in punch. Eyelets for a hood drawcord, for example, are set on the hood piece before sewing the hem through which the cord runs. It is important to do a test setting on a piece from the same fabric batch, because thickness and density can vary between batches. The operator should check every set number of pieces that the barrel rolls evenly and that the die is not worn.
The most common mistakes when setting eyelets
- Punching a hole larger than the barrel.
- Setting without reinforcing thin fabric.
- The washer fitted upside down.
- Blows that are too weak, so the barrel rolls over only partly.
- Using a tool that is not made for that eyelet size.
- Setting an eyelet on a seam where the thickness differs on the two sides.
Eyelets in combination with other accessories
On sweatshirts and trousers, eyelets usually come as one set with cords, cord ends and cord stoppers, and on denim and workwear with rivets and snap buttons in the same finish. Plan them together so that you can use one tool and one press setting.
Eyelets wholesale from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia, with over 30 years of experience. We offer eyelets in various sizes, materials and finishes, custom production with a logo and, if needed, attaching the accessories. Send an inquiry with the size, material and type of fabric via the contact page and you will receive a quote and samples.
