Pearl and marble snap caps are decorative caps on a brass prong snap button. They give a shirt the look of a pearl or natural stone and are the trademark of western-style shirts. In the Polkom catalogue these are the styles PR-40 with a pearl cap and PR-50 with a marble polyester cap. The cap is cast in a colour of your choice, and the logo is applied by laser or printed under a transparent cap.
Pearl and marble snap caps: what they are
Both styles are part of the prong (chico) system. The snap consists of 4 parts: a top part (cap with prongs), socket, stud and a bottom prong ring. The prongs pass through the fabric without cutting it, so there is no need to punch a hole beforehand. The system is designed for thin and medium-weight fabrics, jersey and stretch materials – exactly the fabrics used for shirts, bodysuits and denim shirts.
The difference lies in the top part. On standard styles the cap is metal, while on PR-40 and PR-50 a cast insert sits on the metal base: pearl with its characteristic pearlescent sheen, or a marble pattern in which every cap is different. On both styles the cap is free of phthalates and PVC.

Styles and sizes
The table shows the pearl and marble styles and, for comparison, the crystal cap and the closed metal cap from the same system:
| Code | Cap | Material | Sizes | Logo | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PR-40 | Pearl cap | brass, cap free of phthalates and PVC | 7.5; 8.5; 10; 10.5; 11.5; 12; 12.5; 15; 17; 21 mm | laser or print under a transparent cap | shirts, bodysuits, jersey, denim shirts, babywear |
| PR-50 | Marble polyester cap | brass, cap free of phthalates and PVC | 9.5; 10.5; 11.5 mm | laser | shirts, denim shirts, bodysuits, jersey |
| PR-60 | Crystal cap | brass, cap free of phthalates and PVC | 7.5; 10; 11.5; 12.5; 21 mm | no | shirts, bodysuits, denim shirts, children’s clothing |
| PR-20 | Closed metal cap | brass | 7.5; 8.5; 9; 10; 11.5; 12; 12.5; 16; 18; 22 mm | yes | shirts, bodysuits, jersey, children’s clothing, jackets |
PR-40 has the widest range – ten sizes from 7.5 to 21 mm – and is also available with long prongs for denser areas. PR-50 comes in three compact sizes: 9.5, 10.5 and 11.5 mm. The crystal PR-60 is a decorative alternative with a stone, but it does not take a logo.
Western-style shirts: why pearl is the classic
The western shirt is one of the few products in which the snap button is not just a fastening but a key decorative element. Pearl caps can be seen from afar, often contrast with the fabric – light pearl on denim, checks or dark poplin – and set the character of the style.
Where the snaps are placed
- placket – the main row that defines the look;
- cuffs – often two snaps each, to adjust the width;
- pocket flaps – usually with a snap of the same style;
- collar – on styles where the collar points fasten to the shirt.
For a uniform look, use one style in all positions and change only the size if necessary. With PR-40 the choice of sizes is wide enough to select a cap for the placket and a smaller one for the collar or pocket flap from the same series.
Denim and heavier shirts
A denim shirt often has a thicker placket and seams in several layers. Here the PR-40 version with long prongs grips more securely. Choose the position so that there is no difference in thickness under the snap – for example a seam right under the prongs.
PR-50 marble caps for premium shirts
A marble cap is a more discreet choice than classic pearl. Each cap has its own marble pattern, and the effect and colour are chosen to order. This gives the shirt a detail that looks like a natural material, without the weight of real stone.
During quality control, bear in mind that differences in pattern between individual snaps are characteristic of the style, not a defect. So approve the sample as a range of the effect, not as a single snap that all the others must reproduce exactly.

Colour of the cast cap and the metal parts
The pearl on PR-40 and the marble on PR-50 are cast in a colour of your choice – in the shade of the fabric for a clean look or in a contrasting colour for an accent. Send a fabric sample or a reference colour and we will match the cast cap on a sample.
The metal parts of the snap are made in a finish of your choice: nickel colour, black nickel colour, antique brass, tin oxide, gold, gunmetal and others – all nickel free. Match the tone of the metal parts to the colour of the cast cap – for example light pearl with nickel colour or cream pearl with antique brass. You will find more about the finishes in the snap buttons category.
Logo on a pearl or marble cap
Both styles take a logo, but with different techniques:
- PR-40 – logo by laser or printed under a transparent cap; with transparent pearl the print is underneath and stays protected from rubbing;
- PR-50 – laser logo on the marble cap;
- PR-60 – the crystal cap has no logo.
For the small sizes – 7.5 or 8.5 mm – choose a simplified mark or monogram instead of the full logo with text. Send the logo in vector format and we will suggest the suitable size and technique. All branding options are described on the branding page.
Attaching
- Attach the snaps with a special die for the prong system and for the exact size.
- On jersey and stretch materials, reinforce the spot with interfacing or tape.
- Choose standard or long prongs according to the thickness of the fabric in the finished garment.
- Adjust the force of the press on the first pieces – too strong a blow can leave a mark on the cap.
Care and washing of shirts with pearl snaps
A decorative cap needs a little more attention than a metal one. These tips should also reach the end customer via the care label:
- Fasten the shirt and turn it inside out before washing – the caps do not knock against the drum.
- Wash at a moderate temperature and avoid chlorine bleach.
- Do not iron directly over the cap – iron around the snap or on the reverse side.
- Dry at a low temperature or on a hanger.
Sample and inquiry
Polkom is a manufacturer of snap buttons and metal accessories with over 30 years of experience. We make pearl and marble caps in a colour matched to your sample and with your logo. Send us fabric and a description of the style via the contact page – we will do a test attachment and a sample. Take a look at our sew-on mother-of-pearl buttons too.














