Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Scalloped elastic, also known as picot elastic, is a narrow, soft knitted elastic whose edge finishes in small decorative loops. It is sewn along the edge of lingerie so that the loops remain visible and form a delicate finish – on leg openings, waistbands, necklines and cup edges. This way one and the same detail provides both fit and decoration.
What is picot elastic
Picot elastic is produced on the same knitting machines as ordinary knitted elastic, but along one edge (less often both) protruding loops – picots – are formed. They are created by an additional thread that "comes out" beyond the main band at regular intervals. The loops can be fine and dense, larger and spaced out, or shaped like small waves, which is where the name "scalloped" comes from.
The main part of the elastic remains soft and smooth. Often one side is brushed to feel pleasant against the skin, while the face is matt or slightly glossy.
Types of picot elastic
| Edge type | Look | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|
| Fine picot | Small, dense loops, a discreet effect | Everyday lingerie, briefs, bodysuits |
| Large picot | More pronounced, spaced loops | Necklines, nightdresses, retro styles |
| Wavy scallop | Waves or semicircles along the edge | Luxury lingerie, combinations with lace |
| Double-sided picot | Loops on both edges | Visible decorative bands, straps |
| Picot with plush back | Picot edge and brushed inner side | Bra underbands, waistbands |
Where picot elastic is used
- Leg openings and waistband of briefs – the most common use. The picot edge replaces a binding or hem.
- Bras – top edge of the cups, neckline, underband.
- Slips, nightdresses and bodysuits – neckline, sleeves and bottom edge.
- Children's underwear – soft elastic with a fine decorative edge.
- Lingerie with lace – the scallop visually continues the edge of the lace.
Picot elastic widths
Picot elastic is mainly narrow. Bands of 6 to 12 mm are used for leg openings and necklines, 10 to 20 mm for brief waistbands and 12 to 25 mm for bra underbands. On wider bands the picot edge is more of a decorative accent, and the main function is support. The width is measured without the edge loops, so when comparing samples, specify how it was measured.
If the collection includes several products – briefs, bra and nightdress – it is a good idea to use the same type of picot edge in different widths. This makes the set look coherent and makes delivery easier to plan, because all bands are dyed in one shade and can be ordered together.
How to sew picot elastic
To keep the edge visible, picot elastic is sewn in two passes. The method is the same for home and series sewing; only the machines differ.
- Place the elastic on the right side of the fabric, with the brushed side up and the picot edge facing inwards towards the garment, and the straight edge along the cut edge of the fabric.
- Sew with a narrow zigzag close to the picot edge, stretching the elastic evenly according to the distribution in the pattern.
- Turn the elastic to the wrong side so that the picot loops come out along the new edge of the garment.
- Topstitch a second pass with a three-step zigzag from the right side, catching the elastic and fabric together.
- Check that the loops are upright and equally visible along the entire length.
In series production, the same result is achieved on coverstitch or flatlock machines fitted with an elastic feeder. You will find a detailed description of the seams in our separate article on attaching elastic to lingerie.
How to choose picot elastic
- Colour and shade – the picot edge is visible, so the colour must match the fabric or lace. The elastic can be dyed to Pantone.
- Loop size – fine loops are more versatile; large ones become an accent and must suit the style of the collection.
- Tension – leg openings need a softer tension, a bra underband a stronger one.
- Composition – polyamide with elastane gives a soft touch and a smooth face; polyester is more resistant to light.
- Care – the loops must keep their shape after washing, so the sample is tested before the series.
Picot elastic or a ribbon binding
Some designs use a binding of satin ribbon or bias tape instead of elastic. A binding looks more severe and provides no fit, so it is used mainly in places without load. Picot elastic is more practical for edges that must cling to the body, and it reduces the number of operations – one component replaces a binding and an elastic at the same time.
For children's underwear and designs for sensitive skin, picot elastic is also preferred because there is no stiff hem or thick binding – the edge is thin and soft, and the loops do not scratch.
Mistakes when using picot elastic
- The elastic is sewn with the picot edge facing outwards on the first pass – after turning, the loops stay hidden.
- Uneven tension – the loops are stretched in some places and bunched in others.
- Too wide a zigzag – the stitching goes through the loops and deforms them.
- A colour that does not match the fabric in daylight.
Custom picot elastic from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery for clothing. We supply picot elastic for lingerie in various widths, standard colours and dyed to Pantone, as well as other types of knitted elastic, with delivery across the EU. Send us a photo of the design, a sample of the fabric or lace and the desired width via our contact form – we will suggest a suitable elastic and send samples.
