Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
Stretch lace is lace in which elastane is worked in alongside the main yarns (polyamide or polyester), so it stretches and returns to shape. It is used for the edges of lingerie, bras, thongs, bodysuits, swimwear and fitted tops – anywhere the lace must follow the body. It is available as a narrow trim, a medium-width tape and wide lace or fabric by the metre.
What stretch lace is and how it works
Most stretch laces are produced on Raschel machines – knitting machines that create the mesh ground and the motif at the same time. Elastane yarns are laid into the knit, usually lengthwise, sometimes in both directions. The composition is most often polyamide with elastane or polyester with elastane, with the elastane content determining how strongly the lace stretches.
There are two main groups:
- one-way stretch – stretches mainly lengthwise; suitable for edges and trims;
- two-way stretch – stretches both lengthwise and widthwise; used for whole pieces such as cups, bodysuit fronts and fitted tops.
Types of stretch lace by form
Stretch lace trim (edging)
Narrow trims with one decorative edge – scalloped, wavy or with a motif – and a straight edge for sewing. They are used for leg openings and waists of briefs and thongs, for the lower edge of bras and for necklines. The straight edge often has a denser knit to carry the seam.
Double-edged trim (galloon)
A trim with decorative edges on both sides, sewn down the middle or used as a visible insert – for example a strap or waistband on lingerie.
Stretch lace fabric
Wide lace from which whole pieces are cut. It replaces jersey in styles where the whole product is lace: bodysuits, unlined bras, fitted tops, sleeves.
Stretch lace widths and uses
| Width | Typical use |
|---|---|
| up to 2 cm | leg opening edges, necklines, bra details |
| 2–5 cm | waist of briefs and thongs, lower edge of bras |
| 5–10 cm | wide lingerie edges, high-waisted knickers, sleeves |
| 10–25 cm | bodysuits, fronts, inserts, bralettes |
| full width (fabric) | whole pieces – tops, dresses, bodysuits |
The widths are approximate and depend on the style. When choosing, look not only at the visible width of the motif but also at the width of the sewing zone.
How to choose stretch lace
- Stretch – stretch 10 cm of lace and see how far it goes without effort. Lingerie edges need moderate stretch, body pieces higher stretch.
- Recovery – after stretching, the lace must return to its original length. If it stays elongated, it will "spread" along the edge after a few wears.
- Softness – the lingerie edge is in contact with the skin; stiff lace digs in and irritates.
- Composition – polyamide is softer and smoother to the touch, polyester more light-resistant and more economical. For swimwear choose a material resistant to chlorine and salt water.
- Colour fastness – especially important with dark laces combined with light jersey.
How to sew stretch lace
- Use a jersey or stretch needle (ballpoint) so as not to cut the yarns.
- Sew with a narrow zigzag or three-step zigzag – a straight stitch will break when stretched.
- For lingerie edges the lace is laid right side to right side of the fabric and sewn with zigzag along the straight edge; the excess fabric underneath is trimmed.
- Do not stretch the lace while sewing, unless the style requires slight tightening – in that case do it evenly.
- Check the sewing machine setting on a sample piece before starting the series.
When the edge needs to hold more firmly, stretch lace is combined with an inner knitted elastic, and for waists and straps with suitable elastics in the same tone.
Stretch lace by the metre and by the roll
For ateliers and small series, stretch lace is bought by the metre. For series production it is more economical to order by the roll, because the colour is then from one batch and there are no shade differences between pieces. When ordering, state the width, colour (to a sample or Pantone), composition and the quantity needed, calculated from the pattern.
Care and durability
Elastane is sensitive to high temperatures and chlorine. Stretch lace lasts longest when washed at up to 30–40 °C, without bleach and without tumble drying. Washing the product in a mesh bag is recommended. These requirements should be reflected in the care symbols on the label.
Common mistakes
- Rigid lace on an edge that must stretch – the seam breaks or the edge "cuts" into the skin.
- Lace with too strong a stretch on a wide piece – the product contracts and puckers.
- Different batches in one series – the lace shade differs between pieces.
- No shrinkage test – the lace and the main fabric shrink differently after the first wash.
- A stiff straight edge on the trim that remains visible and irritates when worn.
Stretch lace from Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery and garment accessories from Sofia. In our lace category we offer stretch trims and laces for lingerie, swimwear and clothing, in various widths and colours, as well as matching elastics. We deliver throughout the EU and send samples quickly. Minimum quantities depend on the article – send an inquiry with the width, colour and application.
