Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
Fabric-covered button sizes are given in ligne (L), where 1L = 0.635 mm. The most widely used range from 14L (about 9 mm) for rows down the back of dresses to 40L (about 25 mm) and above for coats and upholstery. For each size a circle of fabric is cut roughly twice the diameter of the button; the exact value depends on the button profile and the thickness of the fabric.
What a ligne (L) is and why it is used
The ligne is the traditional unit of measurement in button making. It comes from the old French measure ligne and has been adopted across the whole industry, which is why catalogues and technical specifications give sizes in L. The formula is simple: diameter in mm = size in L × 0.635. For example, 24L = 15.24 mm and 36L = 22.86 mm. The reverse calculation is mm ÷ 0.635.
For fabric-covered buttons the size refers to the diameter of the finished button, not of the fabric circle. A thick fabric can slightly increase the real diameter, so with very dense fabrics it is wise to make a test button and measure it with a calliper.
Fabric-covered button size chart
| Ligne | mm | Fabric circle, approx. | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 | about 19 mm | rows down the back of bridal gowns |
| 16L | 10.2 | about 21 mm | dresses, cuffs, children's clothing |
| 18L | 11.4 | about 23 mm | blouses, dresses, cuffs |
| 20L | 12.7 | about 25 mm | blouses, dresses, shirts |
| 24L | 15.2 | about 29 mm | dresses, jackets, jacket sleeves |
| 28L | 17.8 | about 33 mm | jackets, waistcoats |
| 30L | 19.1 | about 35 mm | women's jackets, coat dresses |
| 32L | 20.3 | about 37 mm | jackets, suits |
| 36L | 22.9 | about 40 mm | coats, upholstery |
| 40L | 25.4 | about 44 mm | coats, upholstery |
| 45L–60L | 28.6–38.1 | about 48–62 mm | decorative buttons, headboards |
The fabric circle is approximate for a half-dome profile and a fabric of medium thickness. With a high dome profile the circle is larger, with a flat profile smaller, and with a thick fabric it is also reduced.
Fabric-covered button sizes by garment
Bridal and evening gowns
For long rows down the back and along the sleeves, small domed buttons of 14L–18L are used. They are light, do not weigh down the thin fabric and look beautiful in a dense row with loops.
Blouses and dresses
For the front of a blouse or dress, 18L–24L is chosen. With denser fabrics such as crêpe and jacquard the size can be increased.
Jackets and suits
For the front of a women's jacket – 24L–30L; for a men's jacket – about 32L. For the sleeves – about 24L. Fabric-covered buttons in the tone of the cloth give the suit a clean, monochrome look.
Coats
Coats need 32L–40L, and designer models even larger. Thick wool cloth is easier to cover over a large shell.
Upholstery
For buttoning (capitonné) headboards, sofas and armchairs, 30L–45L is most often chosen. Smaller buttons give a fine, dense rhythm; larger ones a bold, classic look.
How fabric thickness affects size
The denser the fabric, the harder it is to fold around a small shell. The practical rule is:
- Thin fabrics (silk, chiffon, batiste) – suitable for all sizes, often with interfacing.
- Medium fabrics (satin, crêpe, linen, cotton) – no restriction down to the smallest sizes.
- Dense fabrics (wool, velvet, jacquard) – better from 20L upwards.
- Very dense fabrics and leather (melton, tweed, leather) – from 28L upwards and with a flat profile.
How much fabric is needed for fabric-covered buttons
The quantity is calculated from the size of the circle and the number of buttons. As a guide, a 10 × 10 cm square of fabric yields about nine circles for 24L buttons or four circles for 36L buttons when laid out tightly. In reality you have to add waste at the edges, extra for test buttons and rejects, and with patterned fabrics additional material to centre the motif. So always send more than the net calculation shows.
Button profile and visual size
Two buttons of the same size in ligne can look different in size. A domed button is taller and casts a shadow, so it looks more substantial than a flat one of the same diameter. A flat button, on the other hand, shows more of the fabric and its pattern. When choosing between two neighbouring sizes, for example 24L and 28L, compare them in the real profile on the fabric – a domed button in the smaller size often looks large enough. The profile also affects the buttonhole: a domed button needs a longer buttonhole or a wider loop.
How to determine button size from the buttonhole
If the garment is already sewn and the buttonhole exists, measure its length. The buttonhole is usually 2–3 mm longer than the button diameter, and more for thicker and domed buttons. If you are designing a new garment, choose the button first and then size the buttonhole or loop to the actual button.
Common mistakes when choosing the size
- Confusing ligne and millimetres – 24L is not 24 mm but about 15 mm.
- A button too small for a dense fabric – the fabric covers it with creases.
- Domed buttons chosen for a buttonhole sized for a flat button.
- Calculating the fabric without extra for test buttons.
You will find all available sizes and profiles in the fabric-covered buttons category. If you are looking for guidance on men's button sizes by garment type, see also men's buttons, and the full range in buttons.
Custom sizes from Polkom
Polkom makes fabric-covered buttons to order and wholesale in the standard series of sizes, with a domed or flat profile and different types of back – for clothing and for upholstery. We will help you choose the size according to the fabric and calculate the material needed. We make samples quickly and deliver throughout the EU. Send an inquiry via our contact page.
