Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
A hook and bar is sewn on by hand with a strong doubled thread: first the hook is sewn on the inside of the upper end of the waistband, about 2–3 mm from the edge, and then the bar on the lower end, exactly opposite the hook. Each hole is worked with several close stitches or a buttonhole stitch, without the thread passing through to the right side of the waistband. Finally the hook and bar is fastened and checked to see that the waistband lies straight.
What you need to sew on a hook and bar
- a sew-on hook and bar – hook and bar in a suitable size;
- strong polyester thread in the colour of the fabric (or darker);
- a medium hand needle with a comfortable eye;
- a thimble – useful with dense fabrics;
- tailor's chalk or a fabric marker;
- pins;
- scissors.
Choose a polyester sewing thread – it is stronger and more abrasion-resistant than cotton and will not break under the strain on the waistband.
How to sew on a hook and bar – step by step
Step 1. Determine the position
Close the zip and lay the two ends of the waistband as they should sit when worn. Mark with chalk where the upper end reaches. The hook is sewn on the inside (wrong side) of the upper end, and the bar on the right side of the lower end, which stays underneath.
Step 2. Position the hook
Place the hook on the inside of the upper end of the waistband so that its engaging tip is 2–3 mm in from the edge and points towards the edge. If you place it too far in, the end of the waistband will stick out; if it is right on the edge, the hook will show. Secure with a pin.
Step 3. Sew on the hook
- Thread a doubled thread and tie a knot.
- Start from the inside, between the layers of the waistband, to hide the knot.
- Pass the needle through each hole of the hook 4–6 times, catching only the inner layers of the waistband, without going through to the right side.
- If the hook has holes at the base and in the middle, work both – this way it will not wobble.
- Secure the thread with a few small stitches under the hook and hide the end between the layers.
Step 4. Determine the position of the bar
Hook the hook onto the lower end of the waistband in the correct position and mark with chalk where the engaging tip falls. That is where the bar goes. Check that the waistband is straight and the zip closes without strain.
Step 5. Sew on the bar
The bar is sewn on the same way – through all the holes, with close stitches. It is on the right side of the lower end but stays hidden under the upper end when fastened. So here the thread can pass through all the layers – it will not show underneath.
Step 6. Check
Fasten and unfasten several times. The hook and bar should engage easily, the waistband should be straight, and the end of the upper layer should lie flat without sticking out.
Stitches for sewing on a hook and bar
| Stitch | When it is used | Advantage |
|---|---|---|
| Simple overcast stitch | Quick attachment, home repairs | Easy and fast |
| Buttonhole (blanket) stitch | Ateliers, quality products | The strongest and looks precise |
| Machine attachment (zigzag) | On some models with large holes | Fast, but requires precision |
The buttonhole stitch forms small knots along the edge of each hole and protects the thread from chafing on the metal. That is why it is recommended for trousers that are worn and washed often.
How to sew a hook and bar on a skirt
The principle is the same, but on skirts the waistband is often narrower and the fabric lighter. Choose a smaller hook and bar, and if the skirt has no waistband but only a waist facing, consider whether a wire hook and eye would be more suitable. On a skirt with an invisible zip, the hook and bar is placed above the top of the zip so that once fastened the zip does not open when the wearer sits.
Common mistakes when sewing on a hook and bar
- The thread passes through the right side of the waistband. The stitches show on the outside. Catch only the inner layers when sewing on the hook.
- The hook is too far in. The end of the waistband sticks out and bends.
- The bar is misplaced. The waistband twists and the zip is strained.
- Single thread. It breaks at the first heavier strain.
- No reinforcement. If the waistband has no interfacing, place a small piece on the inside.
- Too few stitches. The hook and bar wobbles and wears through the thread.
How to reinforce the waistband before sewing
If the waistband is made of thin fabric or is already worn around the old hook and bar, reinforce it before sewing on the new one. Cut a small piece of fusible interfacing, slightly larger than the base of the hook, and iron it on the inside between the layers if you can get to them. When the waistband is closed, sew a small piece of strong fabric or tape on the inside, and the hook and bar on top of it. This spreads the load over a larger area and the fabric does not tear. With wool and suiting fabrics reinforcement is essential, because these fabrics are soft and prone to stretching around the holes.
Tips for ateliers
In an atelier where hooks and bars are sewn on often, it is practical to keep ready sets in two or three sizes and in two colours – light and black. On suit trousers, combine the hook and bar with an inner button that takes some of the strain. And if you sew a run, consider press-on hooks and bars – they save time and give the same result on every garment.
See the sew-on and press-on models in the hooks and bars category.
Hooks and bars for ateliers and factories from Polkom
Polkom supplies hooks and bars and sewing accessories wholesale to ateliers, garment factories and brands across Europe. We keep large stocks, offer fast samples and advice on choosing a model. Send an inquiry with the type and quantity of hooks and bars via our contact page.
