Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
The saddle stitch is a hand stitch for leather in which one thread with a needle at each end passes through every hole from both sides. Each hole is therefore closed by two threads, the seam looks the same on the front and back, and it does not unravel even if one stitch breaks. It is the strongest hand stitch for leather and the standard for belts, wallets, bags and saddlery.
Why the saddle stitch is stronger than a machine stitch
The machine hook forms a lockstitch: the needle and bobbin threads interlock in the middle of the material. If one stitch breaks, the thread can unravel along the length. With the saddle stitch, the two threads cross in every hole and each stitch locks itself. In addition, hand-tightened waxed thread is pulled tighter than the tension of most machines allows. That is why the saddle stitch is used where the seam carries weight – on handles, belts, straps and harnesses.
What you need
- waxed thread – polyester or linen, with a thickness to suit the leather and stitch length;
- two blunt leather needles with large eyes;
- holes pre-punched with a stitching chisel or awl;
- a stitching clam that holds the item between your knees or on the table;
- scissors and a lighter for finishing synthetic thread.
How much thread you need
The practical rule is that the thread should be about 4 times the length of the seam. For thicker leather or a shorter stitch length, increase to 5 times. Do not start with a thread that is too long – it rubs more in the holes and frays. With long seams, it is better to stop and continue with a new thread than to work with several metres at once.
How to fit the needles on the thread
Cut the end of the thread at an angle and pass it through the eye of the needle. About 5 cm from the end, pierce the thread with the point of the needle 2–3 times and pull the needle forward so that the end locks around the eye. This way the thread does not fall out and the knot is thin enough to pass through the hole. Repeat at the other end.
Saddle stitch step by step
- First hole. Pass one needle through the first hole and pull the thread through until both sides are equally long.
- Front needle. Pass the needle from the front side through the second hole and pull the thread halfway through, without tightening.
- Back needle. Pass the second needle from the back through the same hole. Go behind the thread already in place, taking care not to pierce it with the needle.
- Tightening. Pull both ends at the same time and tighten the stitch with equal force.
- Repeat. Continue with the next hole, keeping the same order: always the front needle first, then the back one.
The order is the most important rule. If you pass the needles the same way on every stitch – for example, the back needle always goes over the front thread – the stitches lie at the same angle and the seam looks like a braided chain. A change of order in the middle of the seam is immediately visible.
Stitch slant
The characteristic slanted look of the saddle stitch comes from the angled prongs of the stitching chisel and the correct needle order. To emphasise the slant, when tightening pull the back thread slightly downwards and the front thread upwards. If you want a straight seam, use a chisel with round or straight prongs and tighten evenly.
How to start the seam at corners and edges
For a seam that starts at the edge of the item, for example on a pocket or at the end of a belt, the edge is reinforced with a double stitch: before you begin, wrap the thread around the edge once or twice through the first hole. This protects the point of greatest stress. The same is done at the end of the seam.
Finishing the seam
- When you reach the last hole, go back 2–3 holes along the same seam.
- Pass both needles to the back or between the layers.
- Cut the thread close to the leather.
- Lightly melt synthetic waxed thread with a flame and press the melted end against the leather with a flat surface.
- Cut linen thread and secure it with a drop of glue or hide it between the layers.
Common mistakes
- Piercing the thread with the second needle in the hole – the seam becomes uneven and the thread weakens.
- Different tightening force – the stitches are of different heights.
- Changing the needle order in the middle of the seam.
- A thread that is too long and frays before the end of the seam.
How many stitches per centimetre
The number of stitches depends on the stitch length of the chisel. With a 3 mm spacing you get about 3.3 stitches per centimetre, and with 4 mm about 2.5. A denser seam looks finer and is suitable for small items. A wider seam with thicker thread is typical of belts and heavy bags. Do not reduce the spacing below what the leather allows – holes that are too close together weaken the material along the seam line.
Saddle stitch on belts and bags
On belts, the saddle stitch is used at the fold around the metal buckle, on the keepers and along the full length as decorative stitching. On bags, it is used for the handles, side seams and attaching the leather label. The greater the load, the thicker the thread and the longer the stitch chosen.
Threads for saddle stitching from Polkom
Polkom offers waxed threads wholesale in various thicknesses and colours in our threads for footwear and leather category. Workshops and leather goods brands can request samples via our contact page.
