Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
Direct thermal labels are paper or synthetic labels with a chemical coating that darkens when heated by the print head. They are convenient for parcels, cartons and warehouse labels, but they are not suitable for sewing into clothing, because they fade with heat, light and washing. Clothing labels use thermal transfer printing on textile tape, in which ink from a ribbon is transferred onto satin, taffeta or polyester.
The two methods are often confused because they are carried out on similar printers. The difference, however, is significant for anyone who produces or sells clothing.
How direct thermal labels work
Direct thermal printing uses no ink and no ribbon. The print head heats specific points on the specially treated surface of the label, and there the chemical coating turns black. The printer is simple, with no consumables except the labels themselves, which is why the method is widespread in retail, courier services and warehouses.
The same sensitivity to heat is also a weakness. If the label is exposed to sunlight, a hot iron, a tumble dryer or friction, the surface darkens or the image fades. Legibility lasts months, not years, and in the wash it is practically zero.
Where direct thermal labels make sense in the fashion business
- Shipping and carton labels for online sales.
- Warehouse labels for shelves, boxes and internal stock movement.
- Temporary price labels that are removed before use.
- Barcode stickers on the garment packaging.
How thermal transfer printing works
In thermal transfer, a ribbon passes between the head and the label – a thin foil coated with wax, wax/resin or resin-based ink. The head melts the ink at the required points and it bonds to the material. Textile labels use special resin ribbons that penetrate the surface of the synthetic tape and withstand washing and rubbing.
The result is a label that can be sewn into the seam and remain legible for the entire life of the garment.
Comparison: direct thermal and thermal transfer labels
| Criterion | Direct thermal | Thermal transfer (textile) |
|---|---|---|
| Consumables | Heat-sensitive label only | Textile tape + ribbon |
| Material | Paper or synthetic film | Satin, taffeta, polyester |
| Wash resistance | None | High with a suitable ribbon |
| Light and heat resistance | Low, darkens | High |
| Feel | Stiff, paper-like | Soft, textile |
| Typical use | Parcels, warehouse, temporary labels | Size, composition and logo labels in the garment |
Which label for which job
In a shop or garment factory both types are usually found, but in different places:
- Inside the garment – a printed textile or woven label. This includes the brand label, the size and the care and composition label with care instructions.
- Attached on the outside – a cardboard hang tag with price, style and barcode. For these, see hang tags; the barcode is sometimes added as a separate sticker.
- On the packaging and carton – a direct thermal sticker with an address, warehouse code or barcode.
Mistakes we see in practice
- A sewn-in paper sticker instead of a textile label. It looks fine in the shop, but after the first wash it is illegible and the customer is left without care information.
- An ordinary label printer for textile tape. The tape slips, the print is uneven and the ribbon is not designed for washing.
- A wax ribbon on satin. The print looks good but scratches off with a fingernail and does not survive the washing machine.
- Misjudging the cost. A cheap direct thermal label is not an alternative – it simply does not meet the requirement for composition and care to stay legible throughout the product's life.
How to recognise a direct thermal label
If you have received samples from different suppliers and are not sure what the material is, there are a few simple checks you can do yourself.
- Fingernail test. Quickly run a fingernail over a blank area of the label. A direct thermal surface leaves a dark mark from the friction; textile tape does not.
- Heat test. Briefly hold a lighter or hot air near it from a distance. Direct thermal material darkens almost immediately.
- Material when torn. Paper tears with a fibrous edge, synthetic film stretches. Textile tape is woven and frays if the end is not sealed.
- Wash test. The most reliable check: sew the sample onto a piece of fabric and wash it two or three times at the temperature you will state on the label.
If the label is intended for the inside of the garment, it must pass all four checks without visible change. Otherwise you risk complaints and problems with labelling requirements. Keep the approved sample as a reference to compare with future deliveries.
Legal requirements for the label in the garment
In the EU, textile products must carry information on fibre composition in accordance with Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011. The label must be durably attached, legible and easily accessible. Care symbols under ISO 3758 are not mandatory everywhere, but they are a standard customers expect. Both requirements call for a label that survives washing – something a direct thermal label cannot provide.
Printed textile labels from the manufacturer
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of clothing accessories with over 30 years of experience. We make printed clothing labels on satin, taffeta, polyester and cotton – with logo, sizes, composition and care symbols. We make fast samples and deliver across the EU. Send us your design and quantities via our contact page to request a quote.
