Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
Types of lace are divided into handmade and machine-made, and machine lace is further divided by technology: knitted Raschel lace, Leavers (Chantilly) lace, embroidered lace on tulle, guipure (chemical lace) and laces knitted from cotton. Separately, stretch lace is defined by its properties, and edging, insertion or allover lace by its width. The choice depends on the product: lingerie needs softness and stretch, a wedding dress needs relief and refinement, and home textiles need durability in the wash.
What lace is
Lace is an openwork textile in which the motif is formed by the threads and the empty spaces between them, without a base of solid fabric. This distinguishes it from embroidery on fabric and from perforated materials. In garment production, lace is bought by the metre as a narrow edging, a medium-width band or a wide allover fabric, and is used as an edge finish, insert, appliqué or a layer in its own right.
Handmade lace
Historic and artisan laces are made by hand and have their own techniques:
- needle lace – made with a needle and thread over a drawn pattern; a well-known Bulgarian example is Kalofer lace;
- bobbin lace – made with many bobbins on a pillow; Brussels lace and many Flemish laces are of this kind;
- crochet lace – made with a single hook; Irish lace is a well-known variety;
- tatting and other techniques – less widespread, mainly in crafts.
Handmade laces are valuable and are used in folk costumes, souvenirs, restoration and boutique products. Series garments use machine laces, which reproduce their look in repeatable quality.
Machine-made types of lace
Raschel lace
Raschel is a knitted lace produced on warp-knitting machines. It is light, economical and available in a huge variety of motifs and widths. It is the most widespread lace in series lingerie, nightwear, blouses and decorative details.
Leavers lace (Chantilly, Calais)
Leavers machines imitate handmade bobbin lace. The result is a very fine net and a motif outlined with a thicker thread (cordonnet). French Chantilly lace is the best-known example. It is prized in luxury lingerie and bridal fashion.
Embroidered lace
The motif is embroidered on tulle or net, sometimes with added sequins, beads or pearls. The result is a textured, luxurious lace for formal dresses, bridal wear and decorative inserts. Similar techniques are used in embroidery on fabric.
Guipure
Guipure is embroidered on a soluble base that is then removed. Only the dense motifs, linked to each other, remain. The lace is stiffer and more textured, without a net background, and is popular for dresses, jackets, collars and appliqués.
Cotton lace
Cotton laces – knitted, embroidered on cotton fabric or made with a technique close to hand knitting – have a natural matt look and a soft feel. They are suitable for children's clothing, nightwear, shirts and home textiles.
Stretch lace
It contains elastane and stretches with the body. It is used for lingerie edges, swimwear, bodysuits and close-fitting garments.
Comparison of lace types
| Type | Look and feel | Typical application |
|---|---|---|
| Raschel | light, soft, varied motifs | series lingerie, nightwear, blouses |
| Leavers / Chantilly | very fine net, outlined motif | luxury lingerie, bridal wear |
| Embroidered | relief, sequins and pearls possible | formal and wedding dresses |
| Guipure | dense, stiff, no net | dresses, collars, appliqués |
| Cotton | matt, natural, breathable | children's clothing, home textiles |
| Stretch | stretchy, close-fitting | lingerie, swimwear, bodysuits |
Types of lace by form
- edging – narrow lace with a scalloped edge on one side, for finishing edges;
- insertion (galloon) – lace with the same edge on both sides, for inserts and decorative stripes;
- allover lace – wide lace from which whole garment parts are cut;
- motifs and appliqués – separate elements sewn on according to the design.
Materials laces are made from
The type of lace depends not only on the technology but also on the fibres. The most common are:
- polyamide – soft, light and smooth, the main material for lingerie laces;
- polyester – strong, resistant to light and washing, with good colour stability;
- cotton – natural, breathable and matt, but shrinks more in the wash;
- viscose – with a slight sheen, used in embroidered and decorative laces;
- elastane – added in a small percentage for stretch.
The composition affects dyeing: polyamide and polyester are dyed with different groups of dyes, so lace and fabric made of different fibres may look slightly different in shade with the same recipe. Always compare a lace sample with the fabric.
How to choose the type of lace
- Define the function – decoration, edge finish or main material.
- Assess the need for stretch – close-fitting garments require stretch lace.
- Consider the feel – next to the skin, choose soft lace without a rough edge.
- Think about washing – cotton and Raschel lace are easier to care for than beaded embroidered lace.
- Coordinate with the other trims – for example satin ribbon or a narrow elastic in the same shade.
Lace wholesale from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of garment accessories based in Sofia with over 30 years of experience. In our lace category you will find stretch, Raschel, cotton and embroidered laces in various widths, and for projects we can dye the lace to match the fabric. We make samples quickly and deliver across the EU. Send a photo of the desired motif, width and colour via our inquiry form.
