Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
The type of fold of a woven label determines how the label will be sewn in and how it will look on the garment. The main options are a straight cut, a centre fold (loop fold), an end fold, a mitre fold and combined folds. The neck label is most often centre-folded or end-folded, while centre folds and mitre folds are used for the side seam.
Why the type of woven label fold matters
The fold is not just aesthetics. It settles three practical questions: whether the ends of the label will show and rub, how long sewing it in will take in the workshop and how much of the label remains visible after sewing. A well-chosen fold saves time on the machine line and makes the label more comfortable to wear.
Main types of fold
| Fold | What it looks like | How it is sewn | Typical position |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight cut | a flat rectangle | along all four sides | on fabric, pocket, external branding |
| Centre fold (loop fold) | folded in half | the open end is caught in a seam | collar, side seam |
| End fold | both ends turned back | at the left and right | back yoke under the collar |
| Mitre fold | folded at 45° | the lower end in a seam | side seam, hem |
| Manhattan / combined | ends turned under and the label folded in the centre | in a seam, with clean edges | premium neck labels |
Straight cut
The label stays flat, without any fold. The edges must be well sealed – by ultrasound, hot knife or laser – because they remain exposed. It is sewn on with stitching around the whole perimeter or only along the two short sides. It is suitable for external labels on pockets, sleeves and bags, and for labels applied with heat-seal adhesive.
Centre fold (loop fold)
The label is folded in two, and both open ends are caught in the seam. The result is a small "flag" that hangs freely. This is the quickest way to attach a label, because it is inserted into the seam while the collar or side seam is being sewn, with no separate operation.
What to bear in mind
- The visible part is only half of the overall length, minus the seam allowance.
- The logo is usually woven twice – once on each half – or on one side, with the other left blank or carrying other information.
- On T-shirts the neck label can flip outwards; if that bothers you, choose an end fold.
End fold
The two short ends of the label are turned back. The label is sewn on with two short seams at the left and right, usually on the back yoke under the collar. This way it lies flat, does not flip over, and the edges do not touch the skin. This is the choice for shirts, dresses, jackets and coats. It requires a separate sewing operation, but looks cleaner.
Mitre fold
The label is folded at an angle of 45° so that both ends come out in one direction and are sewn into the seam, while the label sticks out to the side. It is used for side flags on trousers, skirts, underwear and sportswear, and sometimes in the hem. It helps display the logo more visibly without opening the garment.
Combined folds
For premium neck labels a fold is used in which the ends are first turned under and then the label is folded in the centre. The result is a flag without visible cut edges. Other combinations are a centre fold with a single turned-under end, or special folds for labels sewn into two seams at once.
How the fold affects the size
When specifying a size, distinguish between two parameters: the overall length of the tape before folding and the visible part after sewing. For example, with a centre fold and a seam allowance of a few millimetres, the visible part is less than half of the overall length. With an end fold, the two turnings are subtracted from the overall length. If you want a specific visible area for the logo, tell the manufacturer and they will calculate the overall length.
Which fold for which garment
- T-shirts, sweatshirts – centre fold in the neck seam or end fold under the collar.
- Shirts, dresses, jackets – end fold.
- Trousers, leggings, underwear – centre fold or mitre fold in the side seam.
- Hats – centre fold in the back seam or straight cut on the outside.
- Bags, backpacks – straight cut or centre fold in the flap seam.
Folding and automation in the workshop
In workshops with larger runs, labels are often fed to the machine from a roll or from a stack with the same orientation. If the labels are folded unevenly, the operator loses time adjusting them. So when ordering, specify how they will be sewn in – by hand, semi-automatically or automatically – and whether you prefer delivery as cut pieces or on a roll. The manufacturer will match the fold and packing to your process.
Sewing in: practical tips
- Use thread in the colour of the label base so that the stitching does not show – choose from our sewing threads.
- Leave a clear margin between the logo and the stitching line.
- With end-folded labels, sew exactly on the fold, not on the logo.
- When combining it with a care and composition label in one seam, put the woven label on top so that the logo shows.
Ordering with the right fold from Polkom
Polkom makes woven labels in all the main types of fold and cut, to your design and size. We will advise you which fold is most convenient for your styles and production process. Send an inquiry with a description of the garments and the position of the label.
