Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Ribbed ribbon is the general name for a ribbon with crosswise ribs. In practice it covers two closely related products: grosgrain ribbon with dense woven edges, and petersham ribbon, whose edges allow it to be steam-shaped into a curve. They look similar, but in hats, waistbands and edgings they behave differently.
Ribbed ribbon – what the term covers
"Rib" describes a fabric with raised ribs created by thicker yarns in one direction. When the ribs run crosswise and the fabric is a narrow tape, we speak of ribbed ribbon. In shops and catalogues the term is used loosely and can mean grosgrain or petersham, and sometimes narrow tapes with a lengthwise rib knit. So when ordering, it is best to specify the exact construction.
Grosgrain ribbon
Grosgrain ribbon has densely woven, closed edges (a selvedge along its length). They make it very stable: the ribbon does not fray lengthwise, holds a straight line and is suitable for:
- bindings on straight edges;
- handles and straps;
- bows that need to hold their shape;
- loops, logo ribbons and packaging.
The drawback is that it hardly follows a curve – when you try to bend it, the inner edge ripples. Typical widths and colours can be found in the grosgrain ribbon category.
Petersham ribbon
With petersham ribbon the edges are finished more loosely – often with small picots or open loops, without the dense woven selvedge of grosgrain. This allows one edge to shrink and the other to stretch when worked with steam and an iron. The ribbon thus takes on the shape of an arc and sits snugly against a curved line. That is why petersham is the traditional choice for:
- inner and outer hat bands;
- finishing the waist of skirts without a waistband;
- curved edges of bodices and evening gowns.
Petersham ribbons in viscose or cotton shape best, because these fibres respond to steam. Polyester versions also exist, but they hold the shape given to them less well.
Comparison: grosgrain vs petersham ribbed ribbon
| Characteristic | Grosgrain | Petersham |
|---|---|---|
| Edges | dense woven selvedge | looser, often with a picot edge |
| Steam shaping | poor | very good |
| Straight line | excellent | good |
| Curved edges | difficult | excellent |
| Typical material | polyester | viscose, cotton, blends |
| Typical use | bindings, bags, bows, logo | hats, waistbands, bodices |
How to tell what you are holding
- Look at the edge. A smooth, closed edge without loops usually means grosgrain. An edge with small loops or teeth suggests petersham.
- Steam test. Place a piece on the board, steam it and try to curve one edge while ironing. Petersham gives and takes on an arc; grosgrain ripples.
- Check the composition. Polyester ribbon is almost always grosgrain; viscose ribbon is more likely to be petersham.
- Consider the width. Petersham is mainly used in widths of 15–40 mm, while grosgrain ranges from very narrow to very wide.
Which ribbon for which product
Garments with straight edges
Jackets, waistcoats, coats, blankets and plackets – grosgrain. The ribbon keeps the edge from stretching and gives a clean, graphic binding.
Hats
For an outer decorative band on a fedora or boater both types are used; when the band must fit exactly to the conical shape of the crown, petersham is easier. The inner sweatband is also most often made of petersham.
Waist of a skirt or trousers
If the waist is curved (as with most low-waisted skirts), choose petersham and shape it with steam beforehand. For a straight trouser waist, a dense grosgrain can be used as an inner band.
Branding and packaging
Here grosgrain has the advantage – its stable surface takes a logo print and the ribbon does not distort on the roll.
Mistakes when choosing
- Ordering just by the name "ribbed ribbon" without specifying the edges and material.
- Using polyester grosgrain for a curved waist – it ripples and stands away from the fabric.
- No shrinkage test for viscose and cotton ribbons.
- Ignoring stiffness: the same width can be soft as a bow ribbon or stiff as a belt.
For a comparison with smooth ribbons see satin ribbon and the general ribbons section.
How to shape petersham with steam
Shaping is done before sewing. Place the ribbon on the ironing board, set the steam and with one hand pull one edge into an arc while ironing the shorter (inner) edge. It shrinks while the outer edge stretches, and the ribbon takes the shape of a segment of a circle. Compare the arc with the waistline or crown line on the pattern and repeat until it matches. Let the ribbon cool in place before moving it, otherwise the shape is lost.
Grosgrain cannot be shaped this way to the same degree. If it still has to follow a slight curve, the ribbon is eased with a gathering stitch along the inner edge or cut into shorter segments. In series production shaping takes time, so it makes sense to decide at the pattern stage which ribbed ribbon will be used.
One more thing worth knowing: in some catalogues the term "ribbed ribbon" also covers ribbons with a very fine rib that feel like taffeta. They are thinner and softer and are used mainly for packaging. If the ribbon is to be sewn into a garment, ask for a sample and check the density, not just the name.
Ribbed ribbons from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery and garment accessories. We will help you choose the right ribbed ribbon for your product, match the colour to a sample and send samples. Describe the application and send an inquiry via our Contact page.
