Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
A grosgrain ribbon binding is made by folding the ribbon in half lengthwise, enclosing the raw edge of the fabric and sewing it with a single seam through all three layers. It is best suited to straight edges on cardigans, jackets, blankets and bags. For a visible binding of 8–10 mm use 20–25 mm ribbon, and with thick fabric add a few millimetres.
Why bind with grosgrain ribbon
Grosgrain is stable lengthwise and prevents the edge from stretching during wear. Its woven edges do not fray, so it does not need turning under like fabric bias tape. The matt ribbed texture hides small irregularities in the stitching, and the ribbon withstands friction better than satin. Classic examples are the bindings on Chanel-style jackets, wool cardigans, baby blankets and uniforms.
What you need
- grosgrain ribbon in a suitable width and colour;
- thread in the colour of the ribbon – see threads;
- a needle suited to the thickness of all the layers;
- an iron at low to medium temperature;
- pins or fabric clips (for satin or more slippery ribbon – clips);
- for series production – a binder (folder) to fold the ribbon.
Preparing the ribbon
- Pre-folding. Fold the ribbon in half lengthwise and press it. Some machinists fold slightly asymmetrically – with the bottom half 1–2 mm wider – to make sure the top stitching catches it.
- Decatising. Cotton ribbon is steamed so it does not shrink and pucker the edge after washing.
- Shaping for a curve. If the edge is slightly rounded, ease the ribbon into shape with steam before sewing.
How to bind with grosgrain ribbon step by step
- Trim the edge of the fabric exactly to the line of the finished product – a binding has no hem allowance.
- Place the ribbon around the edge so the fabric sits tightly against the fold.
- Secure with clips at even intervals. Do not stretch the ribbon, but do not leave it loose either – it should lie flat.
- Sew from the top with a straight stitch 1–2 mm from the edge of the ribbon, catching its bottom half as well. Check the underside every few centimetres.
- Finish the end by turning it under 1 cm and overlapping the start, or by heat-sealing it and hiding it under a seam.
- Press from the wrong side through a cloth.
90° corners
Grosgrain allows a clean mitred corner:
- Sew up to the corner and stop at a distance equal to the width of the visible binding.
- Secure with a few backstitches and remove the work.
- Fold the ribbon up at 45°, then down along the new side, so that a diagonal fold is formed.
- Repeat the fold on the underside and continue sewing.
- The diagonal fold can be secured with a hidden hand stitch.
Curves and rounded edges
Grosgrain is stable and does not stretch, so it struggles to follow tight curves such as necklines and armholes. On a gentle curve, shaping with steam helps. On a sharper curve, choose a narrower ribbon or a different type of binding – bias tape or knitted binding. If you still use grosgrain, ease the inner edge with a gathering stitch and shape it with an iron before you start sewing.
Grosgrain ribbon binding in series production
In the factory, binding is done on a machine with a binder that folds the ribbon in front of the needle. What matters:
- Constant width – the binder is made for a specific width and tolerance;
- The right density – ribbon that is too stiff jams in the binder, ribbon that is too soft creases;
- Consistent colour between batches – when ordering in several batches, require the same colour standard;
- Testing the corners – in machine binding, corners are often slightly rounded so they can be sewn without stopping.
Ribbon width for a visible binding
| Desired visible binding | Ribbon for thin fabric | Ribbon for thick fabric |
|---|---|---|
| 5 mm | 12–13 mm | 15–16 mm |
| 8 mm | 20 mm | 22–23 mm |
| 10 mm | 22–25 mm | 25–28 mm |
| 15 mm | 32–35 mm | 38 mm |
Common mistakes
- Stretching the ribbon while sewing – the edge puckers.
- A seam that does not catch the bottom half of the ribbon – the binding comes away.
- The wrong thread colour – the stitching shows as a line.
- High ironing temperature – the ribs become shiny.
See the available widths in the grosgrain ribbon category, and for other types of ribbon the ribbons section.
Choosing needle, thread and stitch
With a binding, the seam passes through at least three layers: the top half of the ribbon, the fabric and the bottom half. With dense grosgrain and wool fabric, a thicker needle and a longer stitch of about 3–3.5 mm are needed so the material is not "chewed". With fine fabrics and narrow ribbon, choose a thin needle and a stitch of about 2.5 mm. The thread should ideally be polyester and match the ribbon; for a contrasting decorative stitch, use a thicker thread and check the tension on a sample.
If the machine skips stitches at thick spots (for example at corners and overlaps), use a height compensator under the back of the foot or reduce the speed. In series production, these spots are marked in the sewing instructions so they are handled the same way by all operators.
Binding ribbons from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery. We supply grosgrain ribbon in widths from 6 to 100 mm, dyed to Pantone or to a sample, suitable for hand and machine binding. Send us the fabric, the desired binding width and the quantity via our Contact page and we will offer you a sample.
