Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Standard button sizes are given in ligne (L, from the French ligne), where 1L = 0.635 mm, or 40 lignes make one inch. To convert lignes to millimetres, multiply the number by 0.635: a 24L button is about 15 mm, and 32L about 20 mm. It is the diameter of the button that is measured, not the size of the holes.
What button size in ligne means
The ligne is a unit that became established in the button industry long ago and is still used by manufacturers all over the world. Its advantage is that it gives convenient whole numbers for small sizes: instead of 11.4 mm we say 18L. In catalogues and inquiries to manufacturers you will almost always see lignes, while in retail you will see millimetres. That is why it is useful to be able to convert quickly from one to the other.
- From lignes to mm: L × 0.635 = mm
- From mm to lignes: mm ÷ 0.635 = L (round to the nearest standard size)
Chart: button sizes in ligne and millimetres
| Ligne (L) | Diameter (mm) | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 | shirt collar, cuff, baby clothes |
| 16L | 10.2 | shirt, blouse, polo |
| 18L | 11.4 | shirt front, blouse, dress |
| 20L | 12.7 | cardigan, dress, inside trouser button |
| 22L | 14.0 | knitwear, jacket sleeve |
| 24L | 15.2 | jacket sleeve, trouser waistband |
| 26L | 16.5 | cardigan, light jacket |
| 28L | 17.8 | trouser waistband, shirt jacket |
| 30L | 19.1 | women's jacket, summer jacket |
| 32L | 20.3 | jacket and blazer front |
| 36L | 22.9 | jacket, trench coat |
| 40L | 25.4 | coat, trench coat |
| 44L | 27.9 | winter coat |
| 48L | 30.5 | coat, cape |
| 54L | 34.3 | decorative button, oversized coat |
| 60L | 38.1 | decorative and statement buttons |
| 66L | 41.9 | decorative buttons for coats |
| 72L | 45.7 | decorative or heavy garments |
| 80L | 50.8 | decorative or heavy garments |
The values in millimetres are rounded. The actual button may differ by a few tenths of a millimetre depending on the material and the shape of the rim.
Which button size for which garment
Shirts and blouses
A classic men's shirt uses 16L–18L on the front and 14L on the collar (for a button-down collar). Women's blouses allow more variety – from fine 14L to decorative 24L, especially with mother-of-pearl and pearl models.
Jackets and blazers
The usual pair is 32L on the front and 24L on the sleeves. Double-breasted jackets often use 30L–32L on the front, and sports blazers with metal buttons use the same sizes but with a shank.
Coats and outerwear
For coats, sizes start at about 36L and go up to 44L–48L for winter models. The thicker the fabric and the wider the lapel, the larger the button can be while still looking proportionate. Oversized models can take 54L–60L.
Trousers and skirts
For the waistband, 24L–28L is most often chosen, and for the inside button at the fly, 20L. Jeans use metal buttons attached with a press, which are measured directly in millimetres.
Knitwear and children's clothing
Cardigans go with 20L–28L; for chunky knits it is a good idea to choose a larger size or a shank button. For baby clothes, small, flat buttons of 14L–18L are suitable.
How to measure a button correctly
- Use a calliper or a ruler with millimetre markings.
- Measure the widest point of the face, including the rim.
- For a shank button, measure only the head, without the shank.
- For irregular shapes (square, oval, toggle), record both dimensions – length and width.
- Convert to lignes and choose the nearest standard size.
For production, besides the diameter, also record the button thickness, the number of holes and the distance between them. These data affect the buttonholes and the setting of the button-sewing machine.
Size and buttonhole
The size of the button also determines the length of the buttonhole. The general rule is that the buttonhole should equal the diameter plus the thickness of the button. So when changing the model on a series garment, check whether the new buttons pass through the buttonholes already specified – even a difference of 2L can cause a problem.
Sizes in different materials
Not every material is available in every size. Polyester buttons have the widest range, because they are made from cast sheets and rods. With natural materials such as corozo buttons, the maximum diameter depends on the size of the nut, and with mother-of-pearl on the thickness of the shell. If you need a non-standard size, it can often be made to order.
How to state the size in an inquiry
An unclearly specified size is one of the most common reasons for delays when ordering buttons. To receive an accurate quote and sample first time, include in your inquiry:
- the diameter in lignes or millimetres, stating which unit you are using;
- the number of sizes in the model – for example 32L for the front and 24L for the sleeves;
- the number of buttons per garment and the total number of garments in the series;
- the attachment type – 2 or 4 holes, shank, press-on button;
- a photo or a physical sample if you are looking for a specific model.
It is good practice to also order spare buttons for each garment. They are sewn onto an inside seam or placed in a small bag attached to the label and help the customer if a button is lost.
Common mistakes when choosing a size
- Confusing lignes and millimetres – "24" without a unit can mean 15 mm or 24 mm.
- The same size for all parts – buttons on sleeves and pockets are usually smaller than those on the front.
- Underestimating thickness – a thick button of the same diameter needs a longer buttonhole.
- No trial on the fabric – the same button looks different on a thin shirt and on a wool coat.
Buttons in all sizes from Polkom
Polkom manufactures and wholesales buttons in standard sizes, from the smallest for shirts to the large ones for coats, as well as to your sample. Send us an inquiry with the sizes in lignes or millimetres and the type of garment – we will suggest suitable models, send samples and produce them with your logo.
