Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Sew-in textile labels are attached to the garment with thread – in the neck seam, the side seam or around the perimeter on the fabric. The sewing method depends on the label fold: centre-fold labels are sewn into a seam, while straight-cut and end-fold labels are sewn along the edge with a straight or zigzag stitch. Use a fine polyester thread in the colour of the label and a needle suited to the fabric.
Why sewing on is the most secure method
A sewn-in label does not peel off when washed and ironed, is not affected by fabric softeners and stays in place for the entire life of the garment. That is why almost all brands use sew-in textile labels for the logo, size and composition. Self-adhesive and iron-on labels have their place, but for clothing that is washed often, thread is more reliable.
What you need
- Thread – polyester sewing thread with a ticket number close to that of the main seams. A fine thread leaves a more delicate seam and does not make the label stiff. See the sewing threads in our range.
- Needle – for knitwear use a ballpoint needle, for woven fabrics a standard or microtex needle. Size 70–80 is sufficient for most labels.
- Pins or clips – for accurate positioning before sewing.
- Template – in series sewing it is useful to mark the position with chalk or use a template so that the label is always the same distance from the seam.
How to sew textile labels according to the fold
Centre-fold label (in the seam)
The label is folded in two and the open ends are placed between the two fabric layers before the seam is sewn – for example in the neck seam or the side seam. The seam passes through both ends of the label, which hangs like a small flag after turning. Make sure the seam catches at least 5–8 mm of the label so it does not pull out under tension.
End-fold label
Both ends are folded under. The label is placed on the fabric and sewn with a straight stitch along the two folded ends. There are no exposed cut edges, which makes it suitable for the neck of T-shirts and blouses. On knitwear you can use a narrow zigzag so the stitch does not break when stretched.
Straight-cut label
It is sewn around the entire perimeter, usually 1–2 mm from the edge. It suits linings, the inside of jackets, bags and blankets. If the material is synthetic and the edges are heat-cut, the seam holds them flat against the fabric and they do not itch.
Mitre fold
The ends are folded at an angle and the label is sewn into a seam at its top, with the bottom hanging free. It is often used on shirt collars and in the top seams of curtains and blankets.
Machine sewing – step by step
- Wash or steam a sample label if it is cotton – this avoids puckering after the first wash.
- Position the label and secure it with a pin or clip.
- Set the stitch length to about 2.5 mm. Too short a stitch perforates the label and can tear it.
- Sew slowly along the fold or 1–2 mm from the edge. Make 2–3 backstitches at the start and end.
- Trim the threads close and check that the label lies flat, without creases.
Hand sewing
For handmade items, knits and when repairing a finished garment, the label is sewn on by hand. Use a blind stitch or an overcast stitch with small, even steps. Make one extra stitch at each corner for strength. On knits, do not pull the thread tight – leave the seam slightly loose so it does not pucker the knit.
Where exactly to sew it
The brand label is usually in the centre of the back neck or inside the waistband. The care label is placed in the left side seam, 8–15 cm above the hem, so the buyer can find it easily. The size label is sewn next to or below the main label. You will find more on placement in our article on where a clothing label is sewn.
Most common mistakes
- Thick thread in a contrasting colour – the seam shows on the front and the label becomes stiff.
- A straight stitch on knitwear, which breaks when the garment is put on.
- Sewing over the text – part of the information becomes illegible. That is why, when ordering, you should leave a sewing margin of at least 3–5 mm on each side that will be stitched.
- A label sewn on all four sides at the neck of a T-shirt – the collar loses its stretch.
- Unchecked shrinkage of cotton labels.
Series sewing in a factory
In series production, labels are usually sewn in during the same operation as the seam – for example when attaching the collar or closing the side seam on the overlock. This saves a separate operation, but requires the labels to be sorted and ready by the machine. That is why it is convenient for labels to arrive cut and folded rather than on a roll. If your factory uses an automatic label machine, specify the size and fold in advance so they match its requirements. With manual feeding, a template marking the distance from the seam helps all pieces in the batch look the same.
How to order labels that are easy to sew
When inquiring, state how you will sew the label – in a seam or around the perimeter – and we will recommend a fold and sewing margins. Polkom is a manufacturer of custom textile labels with your logo, as well as care and composition labels, with samples before the series order and delivery across the EU. Write to us via our contact page, attaching your logo and the size.
