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Sewing thread 120 is thread with ticket number 120 – the most versatile thickness for sewing garments. The number is an inverse measure: the higher the number, the finer the thread. Ticket 120 corresponds to roughly 25–30 tex for polyester threads and is used with an Nm 70–90 needle for shirts, dresses, blouses, trousers, jersey and overlock.
What the number on the cone means
The cone number is a trade designation of thickness. The ticket number (Tkt) comes from the metric count of yarn and takes into account the number of plies in the thread. In practice, one thing matters to the sewer: a higher number means a finer thread and a lower number a thicker one. So thread 40 is considerably thicker than thread 120, and 180 is finer.
Note: the ticket number is not fully universal. Different manufacturers and different thread types (spun, core-spun, filament) with the same number may have a slightly different actual thickness. If you need an exact comparison, look for a tex value on the label, which shows the mass in grams of 1000 metres of thread.
What else is on the cone label
Besides the number, the label of an industrial cone usually contains:
- Type and fibre – for example 100% polyester, core-spun, cotton.
- Ticket number and/or tex – the thickness.
- Length – how many metres of thread are on the cone.
- Colour code – the number on the manufacturer's shade card.
- Dye lot – important when you reorder the same colour.
- Recommended needle – with some manufacturers.
Record all this information in the garment's tech pack. That way, on your next order you will receive the same thread, not "something similar".
Sewing thread 120: what it is used for
Ticket 120 is the compromise between strength and a fine look, which is why it is the standard in most garment factories. It is suitable for:
- shirts, blouses and dresses made of cotton, viscose and blended fabrics;
- trousers and skirts made of medium-weight fabrics;
- T-shirts, sweatshirts and all kinds of jersey – in the needles of overlock and coverstitch machines;
- bed linen, tablecloths and curtains;
- attaching linings and inner seams of jackets.
When to choose a different thickness
| Ticket | Approx. tex (polyester) | Needle (Nm) | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 180–150 | 16–20 | 60–70 | Silk, chiffon, lingerie, fine shirts |
| 120 | 25–30 | 70–90 | Most garments, jersey, overlock |
| 100 | 30–35 | 80–90 | Heavier shirts, workwear |
| 80–75 | 35–40 | 90–100 | Jeans, jackets, coats, bags |
| 50–40 | 60–70 | 100–110 | Decorative stitching, upholstery |
| 30–20 | 80–120 | 110–130 | Bold visible stitching, canvas, leather |
The values are approximate and depend on the thread type and manufacturer. You will find a detailed comparison of the tex, ticket and Nm systems in our article on thread numbering; here we focus on the practical choice.
Finer thread (150–180)
Choose it when the seam must be almost invisible, the fabric is thin and puckers easily, or you are sewing lingerie. Fine threads require a thin needle and a shorter stitch. On load-bearing seams, however, you lose strength.
Thicker thread (100–75)
It is needed when the fabric is dense, the seam carries a load or the item is washed often at high temperature. For jeans and workwear it is combined with a core-spun construction.
How to check whether the thickness is right
- The seam does not pucker the fabric and lies flat.
- The thread does not fray or shred in the eye of the needle.
- When the seam is stretched, the fabric gives way later than the thread, but the thread does not cut the fabric.
- The stitches are even, with no skipped stitches at full speed.
- The visible seam matches the design – neither too thin nor too coarse.
Needle and bobbin threads with different numbers
In industry it is common for the needle thread to be ticket 120 and the bobbin thread finer, for example 150 or 180. This way the bobbin holds more thread and needs changing less often, while the seam remains strong enough for most garments. On heavily loaded seams, however, use the same number top and bottom, because the strength of the seam is determined by the weaker thread.
Common mistakes when choosing a number
- Comparing ticket numbers between different thread types without looking at the tex.
- Choosing a thicker thread to make it "stronger" – this often leads to puckering and holes in thin fabrics.
- Not changing the needle when changing the thread number.
- Ordering by number only, without fibre and colour – "thread 120" is not a complete specification.
If you work with natural fabrics and want an all-cotton thread, take a look at our cotton threads, which have their own numbering and behave slightly differently.
Thread number and consumption
Thickness also affects how much thread you buy. A finer thread gives more metres per cone of the same weight, a thicker one fewer. In addition, the stitch type matters more than the number: overlock and chain stitches consume many times more thread than a straight lockstitch. When planning an order, calculate consumption per garment by operation and add a reserve for setting up and breakages. This way you will choose the right cone size and avoid reorders from a different dye lot.
Thread number for hand sewing and repairs
For sewing on buttons, bar tacks and repairs by hand, the same thread 120 is often used, but for buttons on coats and jackets it is better to choose a thicker thread (80–40) so that it withstands pulling. For invisible hand hems on fine fabrics, a finer number that does not show through on the right side is preferred.
Sewing thread 120 and other thicknesses from Polkom
Polkom supplies sewing threads wholesale in the most widely used thicknesses – from fine numbers for lingerie to thick threads for decorative stitching, in a wide range of colours. As a Bulgarian manufacturer and supplier of garment accessories, we will help you choose the number, type and needle for every fabric. See all our threads or send an inquiry with your fabric and machines via our contact page.
