Clothes shrinking in the wash is caused by the combination of heat, water and mechanical action, which releases tension in the fibres or felts them. Wool, viscose and knitted cotton are most at risk. The right symbols on the care label – a lower temperature, bars for a gentle cycle and a ban on tumble drying – are the main way to prevent it.
Why clothes shrink in the wash
During the production of yarn and fabric the fibres are stretched. When the garment gets wet and warm, the fibres return to their more natural, shorter form. This is called relaxation shrinkage and is strongest in the first washes. Wool has another mechanism too – felting, in which the scales of the fibres interlock. A tumble dryer amplifies both effects.
The main causes
- High temperature – when washing and especially when drying.
- Strong mechanical action – a cotton programme, a high spin speed.
- Tumble dryer – heat combined with tumbling.
- Unstabilised fabric – fabric that has not been pre-treated against shrinkage.
Which fabrics shrink the most
| Fabric | Shrinkage risk | Main cause |
|---|---|---|
| Wool | High | Felting with heat and friction |
| Viscose | High | Weak structure when wet |
| Knitted cotton (jersey) | Medium to high | Relaxation of the loops |
| Woven cotton | Medium | Relaxation, especially in the first washes |
| Linen | Medium | Fibre relaxation |
| Polyester | Low | Sensitive mainly to high drying temperatures |
| Polyamide | Low | Stable but heat-sensitive |
Care label symbols that protect against shrinkage
- A lower temperature in the washtub – 30 °C instead of 40 °C or 60 °C.
- One or two bars under the washtub – less mechanical action.
- Hand wash – for wool and delicate knits.
- Crossed-out tumble dryer or tumble dryer with one dot – the most effective protection.
- Dry flat – prevents stretching and distortion.
If the label is prepared correctly and the buyer follows it, shrinkage should stay within what is acceptable for the fabric.
How the manufacturer tests the sample
Shrinkage can be measured before series production. Standard tests for dimensional stability in washing and drying follow a series of EN ISO standards (for example EN ISO 6330 for domestic washing procedures and EN ISO 5077 for determining dimensional change). In practice the process looks like this:
- Segments of exact length are marked on the sample, lengthwise and widthwise.
- The sample is washed and dried using the regime planned for the label.
- The segments are measured again and the shrinkage percentage is calculated.
- If shrinkage is excessive, the label regime is made gentler or the fabric is stabilised.
Large retail chains often have their own requirements for acceptable shrinkage and ask for a test report.
Shrinkage and trims
Trims do not shrink like the fabric, which creates a different problem. If the fabric around a zip or elastic shrinks while the zip stays the same length, waves and puckering appear. It is similar with sewn-in labels: if the label is made of a material that shrinks differently from the garment, the seam around it puckers. That is why care labels are made of stable materials such as satin and taffeta, and for knits of soft, flexible tapes. You will find more options in the textile labels group.
Acceptable shrinkage and fabric stabilisation
Some shrinkage is normal for most natural fabrics and is accepted in the industry. It becomes a problem when shrinkage changes the size of the garment – for example a T-shirt that becomes one size smaller after the first wash. Fabric manufacturers reduce the risk through stabilisation: pre-shrinking the fabric with steam or water, heat-setting synthetics and anti-felting treatment for wool. When buying fabric for a collection, ask the supplier for its dimensional stability data. If the fabric is not stabilised, it can be cut with a small allowance, or gentler symbols can be chosen for the label.
Elastane and shrinkage
Fabrics with elastane are a special case. Elastane itself does not shrink like cotton, but it is heat-sensitive. A high temperature when washing or drying can damage it, after which the fabric loses its stretch, wrinkles and looks "shrunk" in places. That is why the label on products with elastane almost always shows a crossed-out tumble dryer and an iron with one dot.
What the buyer can do
- Follow the symbols, especially those for drying.
- Choose a lower temperature when in doubt.
- Avoid tumble drying products with wool, viscose and a lot of elastane.
- Reshape knits while damp and dry them flat.
Clothes shrinking in the wash and complaints
A shrunken garment is among the most common reasons for complaints in clothing retail. If the label is correct and the buyer did not follow it, responsibility is easier to establish. If, however, the symbols were too permissive – for example a tumble dryer with two dots for viscose – the complaint is justified. That is why an accurate care and composition label also protects the brand. See also the whole labels category.
Polkom – labels with the right symbols
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer of labels and clothing accessories with over 30 years of experience. We print care and composition labels with composition, care symbols and logo, with a sample before the run and delivery within the EU. Send an inquiry via our contact page.











