Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Hand sewing leather is done with waxed thread, two blunt needles and holes punched in advance along a marked line. Leather is not pierced with the needle the way fabric is – the holes are made with a pricking iron (stitching chisel) or an awl, and the stitch is most often a saddle stitch. The result is a seam that is stronger than a machine seam and does not unravel even if one stitch breaks.
Why hand sew leather
A machine is faster, but a hand stitch has its own advantages, which is why leather goods brands still use it today:
- Strength. With a saddle stitch every hole is closed by two threads. If one breaks, the seam does not come apart.
- Thick materials. By hand you can sew layers that many machines cannot handle.
- Appearance. The slanted, even hand stitch is a hallmark of handcraft.
- Small runs. For samples, prototypes and limited runs no expensive specialised machine is needed.
Tools for hand sewing leather
| Tool | What it is for |
|---|---|
| Knife or craft knife, ruler | Cutting the pieces to a template |
| Wing divider | Marking the stitch line at an even distance from the edge |
| Stitching groover | Cuts a channel in which the thread lies, protected from abrasion |
| Pricking iron (stitching chisel) | Punching holes at an even pitch, with 1, 2, 4 or more prongs |
| Diamond awl | Punching holes in difficult places and on curves |
| Rubber or polyamide mallet | Striking the pricking iron without damaging the prongs |
| Two blunt leather needles | Passing the thread through the punched holes |
| Stitching clam | Holds the pieces still and leaves the hands free |
| Edge beveller, sandpaper, edge finish | Treating and burnishing the edges |
Thread for hand sewing leather
Hand sewing uses waxed thread – most often polyester, less often linen. The wax keeps the stitch tight and protects the thread from fraying. The thickness is chosen according to the leather and the pitch of the pricking iron: 0.45–0.55 mm for wallets and small cases, 0.65–0.8 mm for bags and 1.0–1.2 mm for belts and heavy products. Bonded machine thread is slippery and harder to tighten by hand, so it is not the first choice.
Preparing the pieces
- Cutting. Cut the pieces to a template with a sharp knife. An uneven edge shows after sewing.
- Skiving. At folds and overlaps the leather is skived along the edge so that the seam does not become too thick.
- Gluing. The pieces are glued along the edge in advance with a suitable leather adhesive. This keeps the layers from shifting during punching.
- Marking. With the wing divider run a line 3–5 mm from the edge, depending on the size of the product. For heavy products the distance is larger.
- Channel. On products with a lot of friction, such as belts and soles, cut a channel so that the thread sinks below the surface.
Punching the holes
Place the leather on a rubber or polyethylene board. The pricking iron is held perpendicular to the leather and struck with the mallet until the prongs come out on the other side. When continuing the row, place the first prong in the last punched hole – this keeps the pitch even along the whole length. On curves use a 2-prong iron or an awl. In corners, plan the holes so that there is a hole exactly at the point of the corner.
The pitch of the pricking iron determines the look of the seam. Irons with a 2.7–3 mm pitch give a fine seam for wallets and small leather goods, while 3.85–4 mm gives a bolder seam for bags and belts. The angled prongs of a French-style iron create the characteristic slanted stitch.
The sewing itself
The most widely used hand stitch is the saddle stitch: the thread has a needle at each end and both needles pass through every hole from opposite sides. It is important that the order of the needles is the same on every stitch and that each is tightened with the same force. We have described the step-by-step technique, including how to start and finish the seam, in a separate article on the saddle stitch.
Finishing the edges
After sewing, the edges are levelled and treated. The sharp corners of the edge are removed with a beveller, the edge is sanded with progressively finer sandpaper and then burnished with water, edge finish or wax by rubbing with a wooden tool. The edges of chrome-tanned leather products are usually painted with edge paint, because they do not burnish well. A well-finished edge is a sign of quality, just as important as an even seam.
Hand sewing leather in small-scale production
When a workshop moves from one-off pieces to runs, hand sewing can stay efficient with a few simple rules. Use templates made of a rigid material so that all the pieces are identical. Mark and punch the holes on several pieces at once before you start sewing. Measure the thread in advance for each seam and prepare threaded needles for the whole day. Order enough thread for the entire run so that there is no difference in shade between the first and the last product. Some brands combine machine construction seams with decorative hand stitching in visible places.
Metal hardware and branding
On bags and belts the points under the greatest load – handles, rings, fastenings – are reinforced not only with stitching but also with rivets. If you make products under your own brand, add a leather label with a debossed logo, sewn or riveted in a visible place.
Waxed threads and supplies from Polkom
Polkom supplies wholesale threads for hand and machine sewing of leather in the threads for footwear and leather category, as well as hardware and labels for leather goods. Workshops and brands can ask for samples in different thicknesses and colours. Write to us via our contact page.
