Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
For bag zips, No. 5 nylon coil zips are used most often – light, flexible and easy to sew around corners. No. 5 metal zips are chosen for leather and luxury bags for their look, while backpacks, holdalls and luggage use No. 8 and No. 10 coil or moulded zips with two-way sliders. The load, the material and the way the bag opens are decisive.
Zips for bags: what is different
On clothing the zip is usually straight. On bags it often runs along a curve, around corners or along the whole perimeter, carries the weight of the contents and is opened dozens of times a day. That is why the choice is more technical than with garments. Four things matter: the chain type, the size, the sliders and the tape.
Chain type
Nylon coil zip
The most versatile option. The coil bends without problems, which makes it ideal for rounded bags, pouches, cases and zips that go "around" corners. It is also available by the metre – convenient for series production with different lengths. Heavy backpacks and holdalls use No. 8 and No. 10 coil zips.
Metal zip
It is preferred for leather and designer bags, wallets and briefcases. The finish – gold, nickel, antique brass, black nickel – is matched to the buckles, rings and metal logo plates of the bag. It is heavier and passes tight curves less easily. See metal zips.
Moulded zip
Chunky plastic teeth that do not rust and withstand moisture and sand. It is suitable for hiking backpacks, beach bags, sports holdalls and equipment bags. More in moulded zips.
Size according to the type of bag
| Product | Recommended type | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Pouch, small case, purse | Coil or metal | No. 3 |
| Handbag | Coil or metal | No. 5 |
| Everyday backpack | Coil or moulded | No. 5–8 |
| Hiking backpack | Coil or moulded | No. 8–10 |
| Holdall, travel bag, suitcase | Coil | No. 8–10 |
| Equipment case | Coil or moulded | No. 8–10 |
Sliders and pulls
On bags the slider plays a bigger role than on garments.
- Two-way sliders – on backpacks, holdalls and suitcases, so that the compartment opens from both sides; the two sliders can be locked with a padlock.
- Non-locking sliders – for easier movement on bags that are opened often.
- Cord or tape pulls – convenient on backpacks; combined with cord stoppers and cord ends.
- Metal logo pulls – on branded bags the pull is a visible element of the brand.
Water-resistant and special options
For backpacks and outdoor bags there are zips with a polyurethane-coated tape and the coil turned to the inside – water does not easily get through the closed zip. They are stiffer and need a stronger pull, so they are often combined with extended pulls. Another useful option is reflective tapes on children's backpacks.
Bag zips by the metre
When producing bags in many sizes, it is practical to work with continuous coil chain by the metre, from which lengths are cut and sliders fitted. This way one roll covers all styles and stock is smaller. It is important that the sliders are the same size and type as the chain. For finished products with visible ends, use fabric end tabs that cover the cut.
Replacing zips on bags
Bag repair is most often a slider replacement – it wears faster than the chain, especially with full bags. If the teeth are intact, only the slider is replaced. On leather bags, replacing the whole zip requires unpicking the seams and precisely re-sewing through the old holes, so the new zip must have the same tape width.
Colour and look of the zip
On handbags the zip is part of the design. The tape can be in the colour of the leather or textile or in contrast, and metal teeth in a finish that repeats the hardware. Some brands use zips with a wider tape as a decorative line, others hide the zip under a flap so that it is not visible. On backpacks colour often plays a functional role: a contrasting tape or pull helps the zip to be found quickly. Colours are matched to a material sample or Pantone, and before the run it is best to approve a physical sample, as the tape colour looks different next to leather, textile and PVC.
Zips for faux leather (PU) and PVC bags
With these materials every needle hole remains forever, so the zip must be positioned exactly the first time. Use adhesive tape instead of pins and order the zip in the exact length so that no correction is needed.
Mistakes when choosing
- A metal zip along tight curves – the teeth jam.
- Too small a size on a backpack – the zip splits when the compartment is full.
- One slider on a large holdall – inconvenient opening and faster wear.
- A zip finish that does not match the metal hardware of the bag.
How to plan a run
Before ordering, make a list of all the zips in the style: main compartment, pockets, inner pockets, expansion zip. For each, state the length, size, type and slider. Ask for a sample, sew it into the prototype and check it under real load. You will find the full range in the zips category.
Polkom – zips and metal hardware for bags
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer and supplier of accessories with over 30 years of experience. Besides zips, we offer buckles, rings, metal logo plates and logo pulls, so that all the hardware for the bag is in one style. Send an inquiry with a description of the style and the quantities.
