Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Metal buttons are attached in different ways depending on their type: jeans buttons are fitted with a pin and a press, without thread, while metal shank buttons are sewn on or secured with a ring or split pin. In production, attachment is done with a hand or pneumatic press and a die matched to the size of the cap. Here is how each option works and what to check before series work.
What types of metal buttons there are by attachment method
- Jeans buttons with a pin – a cap with a neck and a lower part with a spike; fitted with a press.
- Metal shank buttons – sewn on like an ordinary button, with the thread passing through the shank.
- Metal buttons with holes – sewn on through two or four holes.
- Removable buttons – a shank that passes through a buttonhole or eyelet and is secured on the inside with a ring or split pin; typical of uniforms and blazers that are cleaned without the buttons.
Four-part press-on snaps follow a separate attachment logic and are described in detail in the snap buttons category.
Attaching metal buttons on jeans
Tools needed
- a hand, foot-operated or pneumatic press;
- an upper and lower die for the specific diameter of the cap;
- an awl or punch if the denim is very dense;
- pins of a length suited to the thickness of the waistband.
Steps
- Mark the position relative to the buttonhole – the centre of the button should align with the end of the buttonhole on the side of the bar tack, not with its middle.
- With dense denim, pierce a small hole with an awl so that the yarns do not tear to the sides.
- Insert the pin from the inside outwards so that the spike comes out on the face side.
- Place the cap in the upper die and the pin in the lower die. Align them.
- Press with even force. The pin enters the neck and spreads inside.
- Check that the cap does not wobble and, with fixed models, that the logo is in the correct position.
How to check the attachment
A properly attached button does not rotate (unless it is a rotating model), does not tilt and leaves no torn fabric around the pin. If in doubt, do a pull test – the button should withstand a hard pull by hand without the pin coming out. For series production it is sensible to carry out periodic checks on test pieces, because a worn die gradually degrades the quality.
Sewing on a metal shank button
Metal shank buttons are the classic choice for jackets, coats and blazers. The shank raises the button above the fabric so that there is room for the thickness of the buttonhole edge.
- Use a strong polyester thread or button thread; for coats, doubled.
- Place the shank perpendicular to the edge of the garment so that the button stands upright when fastened.
- Make 6–8 stitches through the shank without pulling them tight.
- Wind the thread several times around the stitches under the shank to form a stable stem.
- Secure with a few small stitches on the inside.
If the metal button is heavy, add a small backing button on the inside. It takes the load and protects the fabric from tearing.
Fitting removable buttons with a split pin
On uniforms and some blazers, metal buttons are removed before washing or dry cleaning. The garment has small holes or eyelets where the buttons go. The shank of the button passes through the hole and is secured on the inside with a flat split pin (spring clip) or a ring. This way the same buttons can be moved between several garments, and their finish is not damaged by cleaning agents.
Attaching metal buttons – common mistakes
| Mistake | Consequence | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Pin of the wrong length | The button is loose or the pin bends | Test attachment on a real waistband |
| Die for a different diameter | Chipped finish on the cap | A die exactly for the size |
| Excessive press force | Deformed cap, cracked enamel | Adjusting the stroke and pressure |
| Heavy button without backing | Torn fabric around the button | Backing button or interfacing |
| Wrong position relative to the buttonhole | Twisted waistband when fastened | Marking with a template |
Hand or pneumatic press
A hand lever press is convenient for ateliers, samples and small runs – it is inexpensive, needs no compressed air and lets the operator feel the pressure. A foot-operated press frees both hands for positioning the fabric, which speeds up work and improves accuracy. A pneumatic press delivers constant force with every stroke and is the standard in garment factories where thousands of buttons are attached per shift. Whatever the type, the dies are changed according to the diameter of the cap and the shape of the pin, so always check their compatibility when changing models.
When it pays to outsource attachment
For single pieces a hand press is enough. With runs of thousands of products, however, speed and repeatability are decisive: the right die, a set pressure and the operator's experience. If you do not have suitable equipment, you can outsource the attachment to the button supplier – that way responsibility for the compatibility of cap, pin and die lies in one place.
You will find models suitable for press attachment in the metal buttons category, and for reinforcing denim pockets in rivets.
Polkom – buttons and attachment from one supplier
Polkom manufactures and supplies wholesale metal buttons, rivets and snap buttons, and as a service attaches buttons, zips and accessories to finished products. We make samples quickly and deliver throughout the EU. Describe the product, the type of button and the quantity via the contact form to request a quote.
