When washing jeans with a leather label, turn the garment inside out, wash at a low to moderate temperature, do not tumble dry and do not iron directly over the label. Genuine leather can shrink slightly and darken when wet, jacron hardens and cracks at high temperatures, and faux leather (PU) handles washing most predictably. Below we explain why all this happens and how to prevent it – both as a consumer and as a brand.
Why leather labels change in the wash
Leather and leather-look materials react to three factors in the washing machine: water, temperature and mechanical friction.
Genuine leather
Leather fibres absorb water and swell, and shrink as they dry. If the leather is vegetable-tanned, it loses some of its natural oils when wet and becomes stiffer and darker after drying. Repeated washing intensifies the effect. Chrome-tanned leather is more water-resistant and changes less.
Jacron
The cellulose base of jacron is impregnated and tolerates water, but high temperatures – especially in a tumble dryer – dry it out excessively. The result is hardening, cracking and creasing.
Faux leather (PU)
The polyurethane coating does not absorb water and keeps its shape. At very high temperatures or with aggressive detergents the coating can peel or crack over time, but with normal washing it is the most stable of the three materials.
Rules for washing jeans with a leather label
- Turn the garment inside out. This way the label does not rub directly against the drum and the other clothes.
- Choose a low to moderate temperature. For most jeans, a low-temperature colours programme is enough; follow the symbols on the care label.
- Use a gentle programme and a lower spin speed. Strong spinning bends and crumples the label.
- Avoid bleach and aggressive detergents. They dry out the leather and bleach the dye.
- Do not soak for long. Prolonged time in water is the most harmful thing for genuine leather.
Drying
The tumble dryer is the most common cause of damaged leather labels. High temperatures and constant tumbling shrink genuine leather and crack jacron. Dry jeans on a line, inside out, away from radiators and strong direct sunlight. If the label is slightly misshapen while still damp, straighten it with your fingers – it will then dry in the right shape.
Ironing
Do not iron directly over a leather label. The iron can burn genuine leather, melt the coating of faux leather or stick the logo foil to the soleplate. If you need to iron the waistband, turn the garment inside out or place a cotton cloth between the iron and the label and use a low temperature.
What to do if the label is already damaged
- Hardened genuine leather – rub in a little leather balm or cream and flex it with your fingers; it often softens again.
- Shrunken label – shrinkage is usually irreversible, but leather cream can reduce the tension along the seam.
- Cracked jacron – cannot be restored; avoid the tumble dryer so it does not get worse.
- Peeling faux leather coating – also irreversible; choose a higher-quality material for new products.
Tips for brands: how to avoid complaints
Most complaints about leather labels do not come from poor material but from a mismatch between the material and how the product is cared for. Here is what you can do at the development stage:
- Choose the material according to the washing. Garments that are washed often and are likely to go through a tumble dryer – children's jeans, workwear – are better with faux leather. Premium jeans for raw denim enthusiasts – with genuine leather that will develop a patina.
- Test a sample with the real fabric. Wash the label sewn onto the product according to the style's instructions – for at least several cycles.
- Align the care symbols. If the label cannot take tumble drying, the care label must reflect this. The ISO 3758 symbols on care and composition labels are the first thing the buyer looks at when wondering how to wash the garment.
- Inform the buyer. You can add a short note on the hang tag that the leather patch will change its appearance over time – with genuine leather this is part of the product's character.
- Think about the fabric. If the denim is pre-washed and stabilised and the label is sewn on after washing, the risk of a shrinkage mismatch is lower.
Comparison of materials in the wash
| Material | Washing | Tumble dryer | Ironing over the label | Expected change |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Genuine leather (vegetable-tanned) | Carefully, briefly | No | No | Darkening, slight shrinkage, patina |
| Genuine leather (chrome-tanned) | Yes, gently | Not recommended | No | Slight change in tone |
| Jacron | Yes | No | No | Creasing, "worn" look |
| Faux leather (PU) | Yes | Low temperature if necessary | No | Minimal |
Caring for the leather label outside the washing machine
If the garment is washed rarely – for example raw jeans or a jacket – a genuine leather label will benefit from light care once or twice a year: cleaning with a damp cloth and a thin layer of colourless leather cream. Faux leather and jacron need no special products – wiping with a damp cloth when needed is enough.
Leather labels that last, from Polkom
Polkom offers leather labels from genuine leather, faux leather and jacron and will help you choose the material according to the product and the way it is washed. We provide samples that you can test with your fabric before launching the run. See also our other clothing labels or send an inquiry via our contact page.












