The main types of embroidery thread are rayon (artificial silk), polyester, cotton, silk, wool and metallic. For machine embroidery the choice is most often between rayon and polyester in weight 40, and for hand embroidery stranded cotton, perlé cotton or wool. The choice depends on whether the product will be washed often, what sheen you are looking for and on which machine or with which technique you will embroider.
Types of embroidery thread in brief
Before choosing a specific article, it helps to divide threads by two criteria: raw material (what fibre they are made of) and purpose (machine or hand embroidery). The same raw material can be produced in a completely different construction – cotton, for example, is both six-strand floss for cross stitch and a fine mercerised thread for the machine.
| Thread type | Sheen | Wash resistance | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rayon | High, silky | Good with delicate washing | Fashion garments, decorative logos |
| Polyester | High to medium | Very good, bleach-resistant | Workwear, uniforms, towels, children's clothing |
| Cotton | Matt or slight sheen (mercerised) | Good | Hand embroidery, vintage effect, linen products |
| Natural silk | Delicate, deep | Requires care | Fine hand embroidery, restoration |
| Wool | Matt | Limited | Tapestry, decorative textiles |
| Metallic | Metallic effect | Depends on the coating | Accents, festive and stage wear |
Threads for machine embroidery
Rayon threads
Rayon is regenerated cellulose, which is why it is called "artificial silk". The filament is smooth, reflects light and gives very saturated, "lively" colours. It is soft to the touch, which is an advantage for embroidery on the inside of a garment or on necklines. Its weak point is that it is more sensitive to chlorine, strong detergents and repeated washing at high temperatures.
Polyester threads
Polyester embroidery thread is designed to look like rayon, but with greater strength. It does not fade with chlorine-based agents, keeps its colour in industrial washing and withstands the higher speeds of multi-head machines. That is why it is the standard for uniforms, sports kits, hotel towels and children's clothing that is washed often.
Cotton threads for the machine
Mercerised cotton for machine embroidery gives a soft, matt to satin look and is suitable for linen and cotton products where a strong sheen would look out of place. It is less elastic than synthetics, so the machine must be well set up and the speed moderate. It is also used for a vintage effect and for embroidery on children's bed linen.
Special threads
- Metallic – a polyester or nylon core wrapped in metallised foil. They give a gold, silver or coloured metallic effect.
- Matt – for discreet logos and tone-on-tone embroidery without sheen.
- Variegated (multicolour) – the colour changes along the length of the thread.
- Glow-in-the-dark and UV-reactive – they glow in the dark or under UV light; used for children's and stage products.
- Flame-retardant – for specialised workwear, where the whole set of materials must meet the requirements.
Threads for hand embroidery
Stranded cotton (floss)
Stranded cotton is a mercerised cotton thread of six fine strands, which are separated as needed. It is used for cross stitch, satin stitch and outlines. The number of strands is chosen according to the density of the canvas.
Perlé cotton
Perlé is a twisted, non-divisible cotton thread with pronounced texture and sheen. It is suitable for Hardanger, decorative stitches and outline stitches where the thread must be clearly visible.
Wool threads
Wool is used for tapestries, cushions and decorative panels. It covers quickly but is not suitable for garments that are machine-washed.
Silk threads
Natural silk is the finest and most delicate option. It is used in goldwork, in restoration and in embroidery with very fine colour transitions.
How to choose the type of embroidery thread
- Define the technique. Machine embroidery requires a thread with even thickness, low stretch and a smooth finish. Hand embroidery allows thicker and looser threads.
- Think about washing. If the product will be washed at 60 °C or with bleaching agents, choose polyester. For fashion garments with delicate washing, rayon is perfectly sufficient.
- Assess the effect. Strong sheen – rayon or glossy polyester; matt – cotton or matt polyester; accent – metallic thread.
- Consider the fabric. On knits and thin materials it is best to use a finer thread and a stabiliser. On towelling, fleece and denim – a denser fill.
- Check colour availability. For series orders it is important that the chosen colour can be reordered in the same shade.
You will find a detailed description of machine threads, weights and colours in the embroidery threads category.
Common mistakes when choosing
- Using ordinary sewing thread for embroidery – it is more matt, stiffer and fills unevenly.
- Rayon on workwear that is washed industrially – the colours fade faster.
- Metallic thread at full speed and with a standard needle – it leads to breaking and fraying.
- Bobbin thread of different colour and thickness within the same run – the reverse looks uneven.
For the seams that join the pieces, use sewing threads, and for natural fabrics cotton threads. An embroidered logo is often complemented by woven labels in the same colour range.
Embroidery threads from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of sewing accessories with over 30 years of experience. We work with embroidery workshops, clothing brands and promotional companies and help choose the thread type, weight and colour according to the product and the machines. If needed, we match the shade to a sample or Pantone and prepare a sample. Minimum quantities depend on the article. Send an inquiry via our Contact page and you will receive a quote.












