Types of horn buttons are divided mainly by construction – two-hole or four-hole, shank and toggles – and then by profile, surface and tone. Four-hole buttons are the standard for suits, coats and shirts, shank buttons for thick fabrics and decorative models, and toggles for duffle coats and heavy outerwear. The surface ranges from high gloss to naturally sanded matt, and the tone from black through marbled to light horn.
Types of horn buttons by construction
Four-hole
The most common type. Four holes allow stable sewing and the button does not rotate. They are used for jackets, suits, coats, waistcoats and shirts. They are sewn on with parallel or cross stitching, and on jackets and coats a thread shank is left.
Two-hole
More often on shirts, overshirts, knitwear and casual styles. They look cleaner and lighter. On heavy fabrics they are used less often, because the load is taken by only two points.
Shank
At the back the button has a projection with a hole through which the thread passes. The face remains completely free – convenient for relief profiles, engraved logos and domed shapes. Shank buttons are used on thick fabrics, double-breasted coats, uniform-style garments and decorative details.
Toggles
Elongated buttons with one or two holes or a groove in the middle, fastened into a loop. They are traditional for duffle coats, capes, hunting coats and some knitwear. They are attached with a cord or a leather strip.
Backing buttons
Small flat buttons sewn on the inside under the main button. They are rarely made of horn, but on expensive products they are sometimes used together with the horn buttons on the front.
Types by profile
- Flat – clean, for shirts and fine jackets.
- Rimmed – a classic profile with a raised rim and dished centre that protects the thread from abrasion.
- Dished (cup) – the centre is deeper, giving volume.
- Domed – a convex face, often on shank buttons.
- Bevelled edge – a more modern, geometric look.
- Rustic – an irregular shape that keeps traces of the natural horn.
Types by surface
| Surface | Look | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| High gloss | Mirror shine, clear pattern | Formal suits, dinner jackets, cashmere coats |
| Semi-matt | Soft satin sheen | Universal |
| Matt | Dense, darker | Tweed, flannel, knitwear |
| Naturally sanded | Rough, hand-worked texture | Hunting and rustic clothing |
| Combined | Glossy rim, matt centre | Fashion collections, emphasising the profile |
Types by tone
- Black horn – even, almost without veining; for black and dark formal garments.
- Dark brown – the most versatile; navy, grey and brown fabrics.
- Marbled – a dark base with honey, grey or beige veining; tweed, camel hair, corduroy.
- Light horn – rarer and more valuable; linen, light summer fabrics.
- Dyed horn – the horn is dyed while the natural pattern remains visible.
Types by purpose
| Product | Recommended type | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Jacket and suit | 4 holes, rimmed, gloss or semi-matt | 32L front, 24L sleeve |
| Coat | 4 holes or shank, thicker | 36L–44L |
| Duffle coat | Toggle | According to the style |
| Shirt | 4 or 2 holes, thin, semi-matt | 16L–18L |
| Knitwear | 2 or 4 holes, matt | 22L–32L |
| Hunting clothing | 4 holes or shank, natural matt | 24L–36L |
Combined models
Besides the classic models there are also horn buttons combined with other materials – for example with a metal ring around the rim, a leather inlay or an engraving filled with colour. They are used in fashion collections when the button needs to be an accent. You will find more about customisation in the engraved buttons category.
Natural horn or imitation
All the types listed also exist as polyester imitation horn buttons. They are more uniform and more economical for large runs. Natural horn stands out for its density, coolness to the touch and unique pattern – every button is one of a kind.
How to choose the type
- Start from the product – it determines the construction and size.
- Choose the profile according to the style – classic rim, flat or dome.
- Decide the surface according to the fabric – gloss for smooth, matt for textured.
- Select the tone according to the fabric colour and other details.
- Ask for samples and compare them on the real fabric.
Mixing types in one garment
It is not unusual for one garment to use more than one type of horn button: four-hole buttons on the front, shank buttons on the epaulettes and a toggle at the collar. It is important that they are all in one tone and with the same surface so that the garment looks finished. Order them together, from the same batch.
Differences that show only up close
Two horn button models of the same size and tone can look different because of the details: the width of the rim, the distance between the holes, the shape of the holes (round or slightly conical) and the bevel of the edge. These details also affect function – for example a wide rim protects the thread from abrasion, and conical holes make machine sewing easier. When choosing a model for a long-lasting collection, compare the samples up close and with a magnifier if necessary – it is exactly these details that set a high-end button apart.
Horn buttons from Polkom
Polkom supplies all the main types of horn buttons in natural buffalo horn – with holes, shank and toggles, in various profiles, surfaces and tones, with the option of logo engraving. Send us an inquiry with a description of the product – we will suggest a suitable type and provide samples. Minimum quantities depend on the article.












