Woven Labels for Knitwear and Jersey Garments

Polkom
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Good woven labels for knitwear are soft, light and do not restrict the stretch of the fabric. The most suitable are damask or satin with ultrasonic cutting or a woven selvedge, in a smaller size, centre-folded and sewn into a seam. On knitted jumpers and scarves the label is sewn on by hand or with a stretch stitch so that it does not pucker the knit.

Why woven labels for knitwear need a special approach

Knitwear – knitted fabrics such as jersey, rib, interlock and jumper knits – stretches, whereas a woven label hardly stretches at all. If the label is large and sewn around its entire perimeter, it creates a "rigid window" in the elastic fabric. The result is puckering, a distorted seam and discomfort. In addition, knitted garments are often worn directly against the skin, so the label edges are felt more.

Which label for which knitted product

ProductWeaveFoldWhere
Jersey T-shirts and topsdamask or satincentre foldin the neck seam
Sweatshirts, hoodiesdamaskcentre fold or end foldneck or side seam
Leggings, sportswearsoft satin, small sizecentre fold or Manhattan foldside seam or waistband
Knitted jumpers and cardigansdamaskend fold or straight cutback yoke, hand-sewn
Knitted hats and scarvesdamask or taffetacentre fold or straight cutin the seam or on the outside
Baby knitwearsatincentre foldside seam

Size: smaller is better

On knitwear the label should be as small as possible without losing legibility. A narrow centre-fold label sewn into a seam has practically no effect on stretch, because it is held at only one point. A wide label sewn on all four sides already restricts the fabric. If you want a large brand label, place it where the fabric does not stretch much – for example the back yoke below the neck on a jumper with a reinforcing tape.

Edges and comfort

Knitted garments are worn directly against the skin and move with the body. The label edge must be soft:

  • Woven selvedge – the softest option, with no cut edge.
  • Ultrasonic cut – a thin, flexible sealed edge.
  • Hot knife – harder; best avoided at the neck and on underwear.

How to sew a label onto knitwear

In an overlock or coverstitch seam

The fastest and most trouble-free method: the centre-folded label is placed between the two fabric layers and caught when sewing the neck seam or side seam. This means there are no extra seams on the stretch fabric.

Sewing onto the fabric

If the label needs to lie flat, sew only along the two short sides, not around the whole perimeter. Use a ballpoint jersey needle so you do not break the loops, and a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch. The thread should be polyester, in the colour of the label.

Hand-sewing onto knits

On knitted jumpers, especially hand-knitted ones, the label is sewn on by hand with a few loose stitches at the corners and the middle of the short sides. The thread passes through the loops, not through the yarn strands, so it does not split them. This way the label moves with the knit.

Heat-seal labels on knitwear

Labels with heat-seal adhesive can be applied to some knitted fabrics, but the adhesive stiffens the area and reduces stretch. On very elastic fabrics and knits this option is not recommended without a prior test. If you still want to avoid a seam, run a trial with the press, temperature and fabric you will use in production.

External label on knitwear

Many knitwear brands place a small woven label on the outside – on the hem, the cuff or the corner of a scarf. Here the label is a branding element and must be sewn securely on both sides so it does not snag. An alternative for heavier knits is leather labels, which look good on a coarse knit.

Size label and care label

Knitwear usually has three labels: brand, size and care. If they are all sewn in different places, the garment is "burdened" with rigid areas. A better solution is to group them: the brand label and size label side by side in the neck seam, and the care label in the side seam, where the fabric stretches less. Another option is to weave the size directly into the brand label if the collection is small and there are few variants.

Washing and care

Knitwear is often washed at low temperatures and on delicate programmes. A polyester woven label tolerates these conditions without problems and does not shrink significantly, unlike some natural knits. If the product is wool and shrinks when washed incorrectly, the label will keep its size and may "stick out" slightly – one more reason for it to be small and held in just one seam. Put the care information on a separate care label; more options are available in the textile labels section.

Common mistakes

  • A large label sewn around the perimeter on stretch fabric.
  • A hard hot-knife-cut edge at the neck of a T-shirt.
  • A regular needle that breaks the loops.
  • Heat-seal adhesive on a very elastic knit without a test.

Woven labels for knitwear from Polkom

Polkom makes woven labels in sizes, weaves and folds suitable for knitwear and knits. With over 30 years of experience as a manufacturer, we will advise you on the most comfortable option for your styles. Send an inquiry with a description of your products.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

What label should I put on a knitted jumper?
For a knitted jumper, a soft damask label with an end fold or a straight cut, sewn only along the two short sides on the back yoke below the neck, works well. On hand-knitted items the label is sewn on by hand with loose stitches through the loops. For external branding on a coarser knit, you can use a small woven or leather label on the hem.
How do I sew a label onto knitwear without puckering?
Use a small centre-fold label and catch it in the neck seam or side seam. If the label needs to lie flat, sew only along the short sides with a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. Do not sew a large label around its whole perimeter on stretch fabric, because it restricts the stretch.
Which label does not itch on a T-shirt?
The most comfortable is a small label in soft damask or satin with a woven selvedge or ultrasonic cut, centre-folded and sewn into the neck seam. Hard hot-knife edges and coarser taffeta are the most common causes of irritation. Many brands combine such a label with a printed care label in the side seam.
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