Sew-on snap fasteners for coats are large sew-on press fasteners that hold the inner overlap, the lapels and the collar without being visible from the outside. Metal models with a diameter of about 14–21 mm or more are most often used, and on more luxurious coats the snap is covered with fabric in the shade of the shell or lining. They are sewn on with strong thread and reinforced on the inside, because heavy fabrics take a high load.
Where sew-on snaps go on a coat
Inner overlap of a double-breasted coat
On double-breasted coats, the visible front buttons hold only the upper layer. The lower (inner) layer is secured to the left side with a sew-on snap or with an inner button and buttonhole. A sew-on snap is quicker to fasten and does not add bulk.
Concealed placket
Minimalist coats often have a concealed placket – the visible buttons are replaced by a row of sew-on snaps under the overlap. This keeps the front of the coat clean.
Lapel and collar
A sew-on snap under the lapel allows the coat to be fastened right up in cold weather, and under the collar point it holds a turned-up collar. Medium and large snaps are used here.
Pockets, sleeves and vents
Pocket flaps, cuffs and back vents can also be secured with sew-on snaps when no visible fastening is wanted.
Sew-on snap fasteners for coats: what size
Coats are dense and heavy, so large snaps are used. As a guide:
| Position | Approximate size | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Inner overlap | about 14–18 mm | Takes the main load |
| Concealed placket | about 12–16 mm | Several snaps at equal intervals |
| Lapel, collar | about 12–18 mm | According to fabric thickness |
| Very heavy coats, capes | about 18–21 mm and more | Often fabric-covered |
| Pocket flaps | about 10–14 mm | Less load |
The table is a guide. Check on a sample of the actual fabric – details are in our article on sew-on snap sizes.
Metal or covered sew-on snaps
Metal
Metal sew-on snaps in black, nickel or bronze are the standard choice. Black is almost invisible on dark coats, nickel on light ones. They are thin, strong and withstand dry cleaning.
Fabric-covered
On high-end coats, the metal snap is covered with fabric – lining or shell fabric. When the coat is opened, no metal is visible, only fabric in a matching shade. Covering can be done in the factory or ordered ready-made. Choose a thin, dense fabric so that the height of the snap does not increase excessively. A similar technique is used for fabric-covered buttons on the front of the coat.
Plastic
Plastic sew-on snaps are usually too weak for the main fastening of a coat. They can be used for pocket flaps or light details.
How to sew sew-on snaps onto a coat
- Mark the position of the male part on the wrong side of the upper layer – it must be hidden under the overlap.
- Sew the male part through the upper layers only, without going through to the right side.
- Close the coat and mark the position of the female part with chalk or by pressing the stud.
- Sew the female part onto the lower layer.
- Use a strong thread – polyester or silk – and sew each hole with several stitches. For large snaps, sew with double thread.
A buttonhole stitch (as used to finish a buttonhole) around each hole gives a stronger and neater seam.
Reinforcing the fabric
With wool and cashmere, the snap pulls on the fabric every time it is unfastened. To stop the fabric stretching and tearing, the spot is reinforced:
- with interfacing fused to the wrong side before sewing;
- with a small piece of fabric (backing) on the wrong side;
- with a small backing button on the wrong side on very heavy coats.
On lined coats, the reinforcement is often hidden between the shell and the lining and is not visible at all.
How many snaps and where
With a concealed placket, the snaps are spaced at equal intervals so that the overlap does not gape when walking. On a double-breasted coat, one or two sew-on snaps on the inner overlap are usually enough. Test a sample in movement – sit down, raise your arms, fasten and unfasten repeatedly.
Sew-on snaps on different types of coat
- Classic wool coat – large metal snaps in black or bronze on the inner overlap, fabric-covered on more expensive models.
- Trench coat – medium metal snaps under the lapel and on the shoulder flap, so that it can be fastened right up in the rain.
- Cape-style coat – very large covered snaps that hold the full weight of the overlap.
- Lightweight spring coat – medium snaps, often on a concealed placket.
- Children's coat – larger, easy-to-open models, securely sewn so that they do not come off.
Coordinating with the other buttons
Sew-on snaps are usually not visible, but when the coat is open, the inside is also part of the impression. If the front buttons are in dark horn or corozo, choose sew-on snaps in black or bronze. If the front buttons are metal, coordinate the finish. With fabric-covered front buttons, covered sew-on snaps in the same fabric are also a logical choice.
Care and dry cleaning
Most coats are dry cleaned. Metal sew-on snaps withstand dry cleaning, but it is a good idea to fasten them before cleaning. Covered snaps are cleaned together with the coat – the fabric must be suitable for the same method. For washing at home, if the label allows it, prefer brass snaps, because steel ones can rust if the plating is damaged.
Common mistakes
- A snap too small for a heavy overlap – it comes undone when walking.
- Stitching that goes through to the right side – the stitches show.
- No reinforcement on a soft fabric – the fabric stretches around the snap.
- Shiny nickel under a dark lapel – it shows when the coat is opened.
Sew-on snaps for coats from Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of garment accessories with over 30 years of experience. In our sew-on snap fasteners category you will find large metal models for coats and jackets, and on request, covered with your fabric. Send an inquiry with the size, finish and quantity via our contact page.












