Sew-On Snap Fasteners for Coats – Concealed Closure and Covered Snaps

Polkom
Секретни копчета за палто – скрито закопчаване и облечени копчета

Sew-on snap fasteners for coats are large sew-on press fasteners that hold the inner overlap, the lapels and the collar without being visible from the outside. Metal models with a diameter of about 14–21 mm or more are most often used, and on more luxurious coats the snap is covered with fabric in the shade of the shell or lining. They are sewn on with strong thread and reinforced on the inside, because heavy fabrics take a high load.

Where sew-on snaps go on a coat

Inner overlap of a double-breasted coat

On double-breasted coats, the visible front buttons hold only the upper layer. The lower (inner) layer is secured to the left side with a sew-on snap or with an inner button and buttonhole. A sew-on snap is quicker to fasten and does not add bulk.

Concealed placket

Minimalist coats often have a concealed placket – the visible buttons are replaced by a row of sew-on snaps under the overlap. This keeps the front of the coat clean.

Lapel and collar

A sew-on snap under the lapel allows the coat to be fastened right up in cold weather, and under the collar point it holds a turned-up collar. Medium and large snaps are used here.

Pockets, sleeves and vents

Pocket flaps, cuffs and back vents can also be secured with sew-on snaps when no visible fastening is wanted.

Sew-on snap fasteners for coats: what size

Coats are dense and heavy, so large snaps are used. As a guide:

PositionApproximate sizeComment
Inner overlapabout 14–18 mmTakes the main load
Concealed placketabout 12–16 mmSeveral snaps at equal intervals
Lapel, collarabout 12–18 mmAccording to fabric thickness
Very heavy coats, capesabout 18–21 mm and moreOften fabric-covered
Pocket flapsabout 10–14 mmLess load

The table is a guide. Check on a sample of the actual fabric – details are in our article on sew-on snap sizes.

Metal or covered sew-on snaps

Metal

Metal sew-on snaps in black, nickel or bronze are the standard choice. Black is almost invisible on dark coats, nickel on light ones. They are thin, strong and withstand dry cleaning.

Fabric-covered

On high-end coats, the metal snap is covered with fabric – lining or shell fabric. When the coat is opened, no metal is visible, only fabric in a matching shade. Covering can be done in the factory or ordered ready-made. Choose a thin, dense fabric so that the height of the snap does not increase excessively. A similar technique is used for fabric-covered buttons on the front of the coat.

Plastic

Plastic sew-on snaps are usually too weak for the main fastening of a coat. They can be used for pocket flaps or light details.

How to sew sew-on snaps onto a coat

  1. Mark the position of the male part on the wrong side of the upper layer – it must be hidden under the overlap.
  2. Sew the male part through the upper layers only, without going through to the right side.
  3. Close the coat and mark the position of the female part with chalk or by pressing the stud.
  4. Sew the female part onto the lower layer.
  5. Use a strong thread – polyester or silk – and sew each hole with several stitches. For large snaps, sew with double thread.

A buttonhole stitch (as used to finish a buttonhole) around each hole gives a stronger and neater seam.

Reinforcing the fabric

With wool and cashmere, the snap pulls on the fabric every time it is unfastened. To stop the fabric stretching and tearing, the spot is reinforced:

  • with interfacing fused to the wrong side before sewing;
  • with a small piece of fabric (backing) on the wrong side;
  • with a small backing button on the wrong side on very heavy coats.

On lined coats, the reinforcement is often hidden between the shell and the lining and is not visible at all.

How many snaps and where

With a concealed placket, the snaps are spaced at equal intervals so that the overlap does not gape when walking. On a double-breasted coat, one or two sew-on snaps on the inner overlap are usually enough. Test a sample in movement – sit down, raise your arms, fasten and unfasten repeatedly.

Sew-on snaps on different types of coat

  • Classic wool coat – large metal snaps in black or bronze on the inner overlap, fabric-covered on more expensive models.
  • Trench coat – medium metal snaps under the lapel and on the shoulder flap, so that it can be fastened right up in the rain.
  • Cape-style coat – very large covered snaps that hold the full weight of the overlap.
  • Lightweight spring coat – medium snaps, often on a concealed placket.
  • Children's coat – larger, easy-to-open models, securely sewn so that they do not come off.

Coordinating with the other buttons

Sew-on snaps are usually not visible, but when the coat is open, the inside is also part of the impression. If the front buttons are in dark horn or corozo, choose sew-on snaps in black or bronze. If the front buttons are metal, coordinate the finish. With fabric-covered front buttons, covered sew-on snaps in the same fabric are also a logical choice.

Care and dry cleaning

Most coats are dry cleaned. Metal sew-on snaps withstand dry cleaning, but it is a good idea to fasten them before cleaning. Covered snaps are cleaned together with the coat – the fabric must be suitable for the same method. For washing at home, if the label allows it, prefer brass snaps, because steel ones can rust if the plating is damaged.

Common mistakes

  • A snap too small for a heavy overlap – it comes undone when walking.
  • Stitching that goes through to the right side – the stitches show.
  • No reinforcement on a soft fabric – the fabric stretches around the snap.
  • Shiny nickel under a dark lapel – it shows when the coat is opened.

Sew-on snaps for coats from Polkom

Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of garment accessories with over 30 years of experience. In our sew-on snap fasteners category you will find large metal models for coats and jackets, and on request, covered with your fabric. Send an inquiry with the size, finish and quantity via our contact page.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

What size sew-on snap is suitable for a coat?
For the main fastening of a coat, large snaps are used, roughly from about 14 mm upwards, and for very heavy coats and capes about 18–21 mm and more. Smaller ones are enough for pocket flaps and light details. Choose the size after testing on a sample of the actual fabric, because the thickness of the wool is decisive.
What is a covered sew-on snap?
A covered sew-on snap is a metal snap covered with fabric – usually the lining or the shell fabric of the coat. This way, when the coat is opened, no metal is visible, only fabric in a matching shade. It is used on higher-end coats and jackets. The fabric must be thin and dense so that it does not interfere with the snapping.
Can a sew-on snap replace the inner button on a double-breasted coat?
Yes, many styles use a large sew-on snap instead of an inner button and buttonhole. It fastens faster, does not add bulk and does not require a buttonhole in the lower layer. With heavy fabrics, choose a larger metal model, reinforce the spot with interfacing and sew the snap on with a strong double thread.
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