Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Horn button sizes are given in lignes (L), where 1L = 0.635 mm. The most commonly used sizes are 16L–18L (10–11.5 mm) for shirts, 24L (15 mm) for sleeves and waistcoats, 32L (20 mm) for the front of a jacket and 36L–44L (23–28 mm) for coats. With natural horn the thickness also matters, as it determines the strength and the look of the button.
What a ligne (L) is and why it is used
The ligne is a traditional unit of measurement in the button industry. It is accepted by manufacturers all over the world and makes it possible to talk about size quickly and unambiguously. The diameter in millimetres is obtained by multiplying the number of lignes by 0.635. For example, 24L × 0.635 = 15.24 mm. When ordering, always state the size in lignes to avoid misunderstandings between diameter, radius and rounding.
Chart: horn button sizes
| Lignes | Millimetres | Typical use for horn |
|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 mm | Button-down shirt collar, sleeve placket |
| 16L | 10.2 mm | Shirt front and cuff |
| 18L | 11.4 mm | Shirt, fine knitwear, shirt pocket |
| 20L | 12.7 mm | Jacket inside pocket, trousers, overshirt |
| 22L | 14.0 mm | Waistcoat, knitwear |
| 24L | 15.2 mm | Jacket sleeve, waistcoat, epaulettes |
| 26L | 16.5 mm | Suit waistcoat, cardigan |
| 28L | 17.8 mm | Hunting jacket, flap pockets |
| 30L | 19.1 mm | Modern slim-fit jacket |
| 32L | 20.3 mm | Classic jacket front |
| 34L | 21.6 mm | Double-breasted jacket, wide lapels |
| 36L | 22.9 mm | Coat, loden |
| 40L | 25.4 mm | Coat, double-breasted coat |
| 44L | 27.9 mm | Double-breasted and heavy coat |
| 48L | 30.5 mm | Statement button on an oversized coat |
Thickness – the second important dimension
With plastic buttons, the thickness is almost constant for a given style. With natural horn it also depends on the raw material, so it is a good idea to state it in the specification. As a guide:
- Shirts (16L–18L) – thin buttons, around 2–3 mm, so that they pass easily through the small buttonhole.
- Jackets (24L–32L) – medium thickness, around 3–4 mm.
- Coats (36L–44L) – thicker buttons, around 4–5 mm and more, for strength on heavy fabrics.
A button that is too thin for a large diameter can crack, while one that is too thick can make buttoning difficult.
How to measure a horn button
- Use calipers, not a ruler – a difference of half a millimetre matters.
- Measure the widest diameter of the face, including the rim.
- Divide the result by 0.635 to get the size in lignes and round to the nearest standard size.
- Measure the thickness separately at the highest point.
- For shank buttons, the thickness is given without the shank, and the shank height separately.
Because horn is a natural material, measure several buttons from the sample – small deviations are normal.
Button size and buttonhole length
The buttonhole should be slightly longer than the button diameter, so that the button passes through freely without stretching the buttonhole. The usual rule is buttonhole length = diameter + button thickness + about 2–3 mm. For thicker horn buttons the buttonhole is made longer. That is why the button size must be known before cutting and before the buttonholes are sewn.
How many buttons of each size
When ordering for a production run, calculate the buttons by size for one garment. Example for a double-breasted suit with a waistcoat: 6–7 buttons 32L–34L for the jacket front, 8 buttons 24L for the sleeves, 1–2 buttons 20L for the inside pockets, 5–6 buttons 24L for the waistcoat and 4–8 buttons 20L for the trousers. Add spare buttons and an allowance for sorting by shade.
Common mistakes when choosing the size
- A size given in millimetres without clarification – is it the diameter or the radius?
- Choosing the buttons after the buttonholes have been sewn.
- The same size for the front and the sleeve.
- Leaving the thickness out of the specification.
- A large button on a slim, modern jacket – it upsets the proportions.
Sizes for womenswear
Women’s jackets and coats often use the same sizes as menswear, but with more freedom. Designers choose larger buttons as a statement – for example 40L on a short women’s jacket – or, conversely, smaller and finer buttons for a clean silhouette. Women’s shirts and blouses with horn buttons usually use 14L–16L, i.e. one step smaller than men’s shirts. Here the proportion to the cut matters more than the standard, so a sample on the real garment is the best adviser.
Variation in natural horn
Horn buttons are machined on high-precision lathes, but the material is natural and small variations in thickness and minimal differences in diameter are normal within one batch. For the sewing room this is usually not a problem, as long as the buttons pass freely through the buttonholes and feed smoothly into the button-sewing machine.
Sizes for imitation horn
The size system is the same for imitation horn (faux horn) buttons, so in mixed collections you can combine natural horn and imitation horn in the same sizes. The difference lies in the consistency of thickness and in the weight. You will find full size information for the other buttons in the relevant categories.
Horn buttons in all standard sizes from Polkom
Polkom offers horn buttons made from natural buffalo horn in the standard sizes – from fine shirt buttons to large coat buttons – sorted by shade and with the option of logo engraving. If you are not sure about the size, send us a sample or a description of the garment via the inquiry form – we will advise you. Minimum quantities depend on the item.
