Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Horn buttons are a natural and classic choice for wool waistcoats, cardigans and collared jumpers. The most common sizes are 20L–28L (about 13–18 mm) with two or four holes, and for chunky hand knits 30L–40L or shank buttons. Matte or naturally sanded horn suits wool, mohair and alpaca, and the buttons should be sewn on with a backing so that the knit does not stretch.
Why horn and knitwear go together
A knitted garment is soft, warm and has a visible texture. A shiny plastic button often looks out of place on such a surface, while natural horn, with its warm brown range and lively pattern, blends in naturally. Horn is light for its size, does not break on impact and withstands the normal gentle washing of woollen garments. That is why horn buttons are traditional on Scottish and Irish knits, shawl-collar cardigans and classic wool waistcoats.
Sizes according to the knit
| Type of knit | Size | Approx. diameter |
|---|---|---|
| Fine machine knit (merino, cashmere) | 18L–22L | 11–14 mm |
| Classic waistcoat, medium gauge | 22L–26L | 14–16.5 mm |
| Shawl-collar cardigan | 26L–32L | 16.5–20 mm |
| Chunky hand knit, knitted coat | 32L–40L | 20–25 mm |
| Polo-neck jumper or shoulder buttons | 18L–24L | 11–15 mm |
With knitwear the rule is simple: the chunkier the knit, the larger the button should be, so that it does not slip out of the buttonhole and does not get visually lost.
Holes or shank?
Buttons with two or four holes are the most common on machine knits. They lie flat and are not heavy. Four holes distribute the load better, which is important with knitwear, since the knit stretches when buttoned.
Shank buttons are suitable for thick hand knits. The shank lifts the button above the knit and allows the buttonhole to close around it without bunching. Here it is important that the shank hole is wide enough for a thicker yarn, if the button is sewn on with yarn from the garment itself.
Surface and colour
- Matte or naturally sanded horn – the most suitable for wool, tweed yarn and rustic knits.
- Semi-matte – for fine merino and cashmere waistcoats.
- Polished – for more formal women’s cardigans and evening knits.
When choosing the colour, follow the main tone of the yarn: for cream, ecru and oatmeal tones – light or marbled horn; for greys and marls – grey-brown horn; for navy, burgundy and olive – dark horn. For multicoloured jacquard knits, choose a shade from the darkest colour in the motif.
Sewing buttons onto knitwear
Knitwear stretches, and if the buttons are sewn on incorrectly they quickly tear the knit. Here are the proven rules:
- Grosgrain ribbon backing – on machine-knitted waistcoats the front bands are often reinforced with a ribbon on the inside, onto which the buttons are sewn and through which the buttonholes are made.
- A small button on the inside – on hand knits, a small flat button is placed under each button to distribute the load.
- Thread shank – leaves room for the thick buttonhole and stops the knit bunching.
- Thread or yarn – use a strong thread in the shade of the yarn, or the yarn itself if it is strong enough and passes through the holes.
- Not too tight – the knit must remain elastic.
Washing knitwear with horn buttons
Woollen knits are usually washed by hand or on a gentle wool programme, at a low temperature and with a mild detergent. These conditions also suit horn buttons. Avoid prolonged soaking, drying on a radiator and ironing directly over the buttons. If the knit is dry cleaned, horn tolerates that well too.
Alternatives with a natural look
If you are looking for a natural look with a different character, take a look at wooden buttons – suitable for rustic and children’s knits – and bone buttons, with a light, creamy tone. Horn remains the most versatile for classic wool waistcoats, because it combines density, depth of colour and durability.
Common mistakes
- A button smaller than the buttonhole on a chunky knit – it slips out by itself.
- Sewing directly onto a single layer of knit without backing.
- Shiny polished buttons on a rustic knit.
- Heavy buttons on a fine knit that pull the front down.
- Sewing with a thread that clearly stands out from the yarn.
Seasonal collections and consistency
In knitwear collections, the same horn buttons are often used on several styles – waistcoat, cardigan and knitted coat. It is best to order these quantities together so that the batch is harmonious. If a collection combines knitwear and woven garments, horn buttons can visually link the whole range, especially when they are in one shade and carry the same engraved logo.
Logo and personalisation in knitwear
A horn button is a convenient place for a discreet brand mark – an initial, symbol or monogram engraved with a laser. On knitwear the engraving is usually kept small and tonal, so as not to spoil the natural look of the material. Some brands put the logo only on the bottom or top button of the waistcoat and leave the rest plain.
Horn buttons for knitwear from Polkom
Polkom offers horn buttons made from natural buffalo horn for knitwear collections – in various sizes, with holes and with shanks, in matte and polished finishes, with the option of logo engraving. We produce samples quickly and deliver throughout the EU. Send us a description of the knit, a yarn sample and the quantity via the inquiry form; minimum quantities depend on the item.
