How to Choose Buttons for a Coat, Shirt and Jacket

To choose buttons, we start with the garment: the fabric, the cut and the way it will be washed. Then we decide on the material, the size in ligne, the number of buttons and the colour. A shirt needs small, light buttons, a jacket medium and durable ones, a coat large and securely sewn ones. It is also important that the button matches the price level of the collection.

How to choose buttons – the five main criteria

1. Care – will the garment be machine washed, ironed at a high temperature, dry cleaned? The button must withstand the same as the fabric.
2. Material – synthetic, metal or natural, depending on the style and price.
3. Size – in ligne (1L = 0.635 mm), proportional to the garment and the buttonholes.
4. Construction – with holes, with a shank or press-on.
5. Colour and finish – tone-on-tone, contrast, matte or gloss.

Shirt buttons

A shirt has more buttons than any other garment – usually 7–8 on the front and one or two on each cuff, plus collar buttons on button-down models. They must be thin and light so as not to weigh down the placket.

• Size: 16L–18L on the front, 14L on the collar.
• Material: polyester for everyday shirts; mother-of-pearl or corozo for the premium segment.
• Construction: 4 holes for men's shirts, 2 or 4 on women's blouses.
• Colour: white, pearl or tone-on-tone with the fabric. Contrast thread is a popular accent.

Shirts are washed often and at higher temperatures, so avoid materials that deform or fade.

Buttons for jackets and blazers

A single-breasted jacket has one to three buttons on the front, and a double-breasted one usually six. Three or four smaller buttons go on the sleeves, sometimes overlapping (kissing buttons). Sleeve buttons should be from the same series as the front ones.

• Size: 30L–32L on the front, 22L–24L on the sleeves.
• Material: corozo, horn or imitation horn for classic suits; metal for sports blazers and uniforms.
• Finish: matte and semi-matte surfaces look more elegant than very glossy ones.

A jacket is usually dry cleaned, so choose a material that does not react to solvents. For men's suits, see also the selection of men's buttons.

Coat buttons

Coat buttons are the most visible and the most stressed. They are large, carry the weight of the fabric and are buttoned through thick buttonholes.

• Size: 36L–44L; up to 54L on oversized models.
• Material: horn, corozo, textured polyester, metal, leather, fabric-covered buttons.
• Construction: 4 holes with a tall thread shank or a shank button; toggles on duffle-style models.
• Attachment: a backing button on the inside, which protects the fabric from tearing.

On coats the colour is often not tone-on-tone but slightly contrasting – a darker button on camel, a horn effect on grey, black with a metal rim on navy.

Trousers, skirts and knitwear

Trousers and skirts

The waistband button takes a lot of strain. Choose 24L–28L, with four holes, or a metal press-on button for jeans. The inner button is usually smaller and simple.

Cardigans and knitwear

In knitwear the buttonhole is soft and elastic, so the button should not be too heavy. Buttons with a shank or a recessed centre, wood, leather and horn are preferred. The size is 20L–28L.

Children's clothing

Here safety comes first: flat buttons without sharp edges, securely sewn on, or snap buttons that fasten easily.

Colour and coordination

• Tone-on-tone – the safest choice for classic garments; the button "disappears" and emphasises the cut.
• One shade darker – standard on coats and jackets, adds depth.
• Contrast – on sporty and children's styles, or when the button is the accent of the collection.
• Metal – match the tone (gold, silver, antique, gunmetal) with the buckles, zips and metal labels on the same garment.

Mistakes when choosing buttons

• A button that cannot withstand the ironing temperature stated on the label.
• Buttons that are too heavy on a thin fabric – they pull and pucker.
• Different shades in the same garment because of ordering from different batches.
• Choosing from a photo only, without a sample on the actual fabric.

When you are looking for a natural-material button that withstands both washing and dry cleaning, corozo buttons are one of the most versatile options.

Buttons and the price level of the collection

A button is a small part of the cost of a garment, but it strongly influences the perception of quality. The buyer touches the buttons every time they put the garment on and subconsciously judges the whole product by them. That is why premium collections often invest in natural materials or logo buttons, even with a modest budget for the other accessories. In mass-market clothing, a well-chosen textured polyester or an imitation of a natural material gives a very good result at a reasonable price.

The price of a button depends on the material, size, complexity of the shape, finish, logo application and quantity. If you are not sure which option is optimal, ask for two or three alternatives at different levels and compare them on a sample garment.

How to check the sample

• Sew the button onto a piece of the actual fabric and pass it through the buttonhole several times.
• Wash the sample on the programme from the label and iron it at the stated temperature.
• Check the colour in daylight and under artificial lighting.
• Compare the shade with the thread, the lining and the other accessories.

Help with choosing from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of buttons for clothing with over three decades of experience and more than 10,000 articles. We advise designers and garment factories on the choice of model, size and finish, and make samples and buttons with your logo. Send an inquiry with a photo or description of the garment and you will receive specific suggestions.