Metallic Embroidery Threads: Gold and Silver Thread Without Breaks

Metallic embroidery threads are threads with a polyester or nylon core wrapped in a thin metallised foil, which gives a gold, silver or coloured metallic sheen. To run without breaking, they require a lower machine speed, a needle with a larger eye (for example a metallic needle 80/12–90/14), lower tension and vertical unwinding from the spool. They are suitable for accents, not for large filled areas.

What metallic embroidery threads are

Genuine metal thread made of gold or silver is used today almost only in church and traditional goldwork embroidery. In industrial embroidery, “gold thread” means a synthetic thread with a metallised coating. There are two main constructions:

• Wrapped thread – a thin strip of metallised foil is wound spirally around a polyester or nylon core. This is the classic metallic embroidery thread, with a soft sheen and relatively good flexibility.
• Flat strip (“hologram” or “flat” type) – the foil itself is cut into a very narrow strip. It gives a strong mirror and iridescent effect, but is harder to sew and requires more care.

There are also blended threads in which a metallic strand is twisted together with polyester or viscose. They give a more discreet “sparkling” effect and sew almost like ordinary embroidery thread.

Why metallic threads break and how to avoid it

Most problems with metallic thread come from friction and twisting. The foil is stiffer than polyester and rubs against the edge of the eye with every pass through the needle. If the thread twists further as it unwinds, it frays and breaks. Here is what helps:

1. Reduce the speed. On multi-head machines, lower the speed considerably compared with the usual speed for polyester. The exact value depends on the machine – reduce it until the breaks stop.
2. Change the needle. Use a metallic needle or a larger embroidery needle (80/12 or 90/14). A larger eye reduces friction. Change the needle more often – a worn needle is a frequent cause of breaks.
3. Loosen the top tension. Metallic thread should not be pulled hard to the back.
4. Ensure correct unwinding. Flat metallic threads must unwind vertically and not slide off the top of the spool. Use a stand or a net sleeve that controls the thread.
5. Use a silicone lubricant only if the machine manufacturer allows it – it reduces friction but must not stain the fabric.
6. Store correctly. Metallic threads do not like heat and direct sunlight – the foil can darken or lose its sheen.

The design matters too

An embroidery file made for ordinary thread often does not work well with metallic thread. Take into account:

• Lower density – metallic thread covers less well, but dense fill also damages it quickly. The density is usually reduced compared with the design for polyester.
• Longer stitches – very short stitches strain the thread. Satin columns and outlines work better than small fills.
• Few changes of direction – sharp corners and frequent turns increase the risk of breaks.
• An accent, not a base – metallic thread looks best as an outline, lettering or detail, not as a large solid area.

Stabiliser and underlay

Metallic thread is stiffer and “holds” its shape, so on stretchy and thin fabrics it is particularly important that the fabric does not move during embroidery. Use a stabiliser of suitable weight – tear-away for dense woven fabrics and cut-away for jersey. A good underlay of ordinary polyester thread beneath the metallic layer improves coverage and reduces the number of stitches with metallic thread, which makes the embroidery both stronger and faster to produce.

Gold embroidery thread: when it is suitable

Gold and silver thread are used for:

• logos of premium brands, hotels and restaurants;
• emblems, crests and ceremonial uniforms;
• festive and stage wear, costumes;
• wedding and ball gowns, details on veils;
• Christmas and seasonal decorative textiles;
• patches and appliqués.

For workwear and items subject to intensive industrial washing, metallic threads are not suitable as the main element – the coating gradually loses its sheen with heavy friction and high temperatures.

Washing and ironing embroidery with metallic thread

• Wash at a low temperature, preferably inside out.
• Avoid bleach and strong detergents.
• Do not iron directly on the embroidery – iron from the inside or through a cloth, at a low temperature.
• Do not tumble dry on a high setting.

State these instructions on the care label of the garment. The ISO 3758 washing symbols must reflect the most sensitive material in the garment – in this case, often the embroidery itself.

Ordering metallic embroidery threads wholesale

When ordering, pay attention to the type (wrapped or flat), the shade (yellow gold, red gold, silver, old gold tones, coloured metallics), the thickness and the spool length. If the embroidery needs to match metal accessories – for example metal buttons or metal logo plates – send a sample so that we can select the closest possible tone.

Metallic threads are combined in one design with polyester or viscose threads. You will find the full range in the embroidery threads category.

Advice and samples from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We help embroidery workshops and brands choose the right metallic thread, needle and settings, match the shade to a sample and provide fast samples. We deliver throughout the EU. Minimum quantities depend on the article – send an inquiry via the Contact page.