Proper care of mother-of-pearl buttons comes down to three rules: wash with a neutral detergent without bleach, do not iron directly over the button, and avoid acids and aggressive solvents. If these rules are followed, mother-of-pearl keeps its lustre for years. The most common damage – dulling, cracks and discoloration – comes from chlorine, high temperatures and mechanical impact.
Why mother-of-pearl needs special care
Mother-of-pearl is made of thin platelets of calcium carbonate bound together by organic matter. This structure gives it its iridescent lustre, but it has two weak points. The first is chemical: calcium carbonate reacts with acids, and bleach and oxidising agents break down the organic binder. The second is thermal: at high temperatures and with rapid drying, the organic component loses moisture and the layers can delaminate or crack. That is why caring for mother-of-pearl buttons differs from caring for polyester ones.
Caring for mother-of-pearl buttons in the wash
Machine washing
- Temperature – 30–40 °C is safe for most shirts with mother-of-pearl buttons. Higher temperatures do not damage the button immediately but speed up wear.
- Detergent – liquid, neutral, without chlorine bleach and without optical brighteners containing oxidising agents. It is also best to avoid oxygen bleaches with frequent washing.
- Buttoning up – fasten the shirt and turn it inside out. That way the buttons do not knock against the drum or catch on other garments.
- Laundry bag – a mesh bag reduces impacts and is particularly useful for thin freshwater shell buttons.
- Spin – moderate; a strong spin presses the buttons against the drum.
Hand washing
For silk blouses and dresses with mother-of-pearl buttons, hand washing in lukewarm water is the gentlest. Do not leave the garment soaking for hours in a detergent solution, and rinse well – detergent residues on the button gradually dull the surface.
Drying
Dry on a hanger, in the shade and away from radiators. In a tumble dryer the buttons knock against the drum at high temperature, the worst possible combination for mother-of-pearl. If the garment does go into the dryer, choose a low temperature and take it out slightly damp. Do not leave the shirt hanging in direct sunlight for long – ultraviolet light gradually bleaches dyed mother-of-pearl.
Ironing garments with mother-of-pearl buttons
The iron is a frequent cause of damage. A hot soleplate pressed directly onto the button can crack it or leave a dull mark, and the pressure against a hard board can break it.
- Iron the shirt from the reverse side in the button area.
- Place a folded towel under the placket – the buttons sink into it and are not pressed.
- Iron around the buttons with the tip of the iron, not over them.
- If necessary, use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric.
For production and for dry cleaning with pressing machines, it is a good idea to protect the buttons with caps or to press before sewing them on, where the process allows.
Dry cleaning
Mother-of-pearl tolerates the standard solvents used in professional cleaning, but the mechanical action in the drum and the presses is risky. Tell the dry cleaner that the buttons are natural mother-of-pearl. Some ateliers remove very expensive buttons before cleaning and sew them back on afterwards.
What to avoid
| Substance or action | Effect on mother-of-pearl |
|---|---|
| Chlorine bleach | dulling, yellowing, delamination |
| Vinegar, citric acid, descaling products | surface erosion, loss of lustre |
| Perfume and alcohol-based sprays | gradual dulling on direct contact |
| Hot iron directly on the button | cracks, discoloration |
| Tumble dryer at high temperature | drying out, cracking |
How to restore the lustre
If the button is slightly dulled by detergent, wipe it with a soft cloth moistened with clean water and dry it. A drop of colourless mineral oil, applied and wiped off immediately, can refresh the surface. If the mother-of-pearl has been eroded by acid or bleach, the lustre cannot be restored at home – the button has to be replaced. That is why every shirt should have spare buttons.
Storing buttons and finished garments
If you keep mother-of-pearl buttons in stock, store them in closed packaging, in a dry place and away from heat sources. Very dry air over a long period makes mother-of-pearl more brittle, while moisture and acidic fumes from some cardboard and adhesives can dull the surface. Do not mix batches of different shades in one box – mark each pack with the batch number. Store finished shirts on hangers without pressing them tightly together, and when folding, place a sheet of paper between the placket and the fabric.
Care symbols on the label
If you manufacture garments with mother-of-pearl buttons, base the care label (symbols according to ISO 3758) not only on the fabric but also on the accessories. A typical combination for a shirt with mother-of-pearl buttons is: wash up to 40 °C, do not bleach (crossed-out triangle), no tumble drying or only at low temperature, iron at medium temperature. You can order composition and care labels from the care and composition labels category. If the product will be washed industrially, consider pearl-effect polyester buttons, which are more resistant.
You will find the natural-material styles in the mother-of-pearl buttons category.
Advice from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, also selling wholesale. We will help you choose mother-of-pearl buttons suited to the way your product will be washed and send samples for testing. Write to us via the contact page.














