Mother-of-Pearl Buttons for Blouses, Dresses and Bridal Wear

Mother-of-pearl buttons for blouses are usually chosen in sizes 14L–16L (about 9–10 mm) in white or cream mother-of-pearl, with two or four holes and a concave centre. For dresses and bridal gowns with long rows of buttons on the back, smaller buttons 12L–14L are often used, usually with a shank, while larger 20L–24L buttons serve as decorative accents on necklines. The shade of mother-of-pearl is selected according to the fabric: pure white for optical white textiles, cream or pinkish for ivory and champagne tones.

Why mother-of-pearl suits delicate fabrics

Silk, satin, chiffon, batiste and fine cotton have a soft sheen and delicate texture. Plastic buttons next to them often look flat and “cheap”, while mother-of-pearl continues the fabric’s play of light. Mother-of-pearl buttons are also lightweight compared to metal, so they don’t pull on thin fabrics or distort the placket. Historically, silk blouses and wedding dresses were among the first garments to establish mother-of-pearl as a standard button material.

Mother-of-pearl buttons for blouses: how to choose

Size

• 12L–14L (≈ 7.5–9 mm) – very fine blouses, children’s styles, long rows on cuffs;
• 16L (≈ 10 mm) – standard size for the front of a women’s blouse;
• 18L (≈ 11.5 mm) – blouses with a men’s cut, oversized shirts;
• 20L–24L (≈ 12.5–15 mm) – accent buttons on necklines, collars and pockets.

Mother-of-pearl colour

Compare the button in daylight, placed directly on the fabric. A white button on ecru silk looks bluish and “cold”, while cream on optical white cotton appears yellowish. For pastel blouses, natural white mother-of-pearl with colour iridescence usually works well as it picks up the fabric’s shade. For black and dark blue blouses, choose dark or tinted mother-of-pearl.

Holes or shank

Buttons with holes are more convenient for mass sewing. Shank buttons (with a loop underneath) sit above the fabric, do not gather it, and are easier to unbutton – preferred for tightly spaced buttons on dress backs and thick knits. A shank can also be thread-formed when sewing on a sew-through button.

Dresses with long rows of buttons

The classic bridal back with 20, 30 or more small buttons is an iconic detail. Here are some practical rules:

1. Spacing – buttons are placed close together, often 1.5–2.5 cm apart. Calculate the number needed along the slit length.
2. Fastening – instead of buttonholes, cord or braid loops are often sewn along the edge, allowing narrow intervals.
3. Concealed zip – many bridal gowns use decorative buttons with a concealed zip underneath for quick dressing while maintaining the look.
4. Spare buttons – order several spare buttons from the same batch to avoid shade differences during repairs.

Mother-of-pearl combined with other accessories

Mother-of-pearl buttons are often combined with fabric-covered buttons – for example, mother-of-pearl on the front and fabric-covered on cuffs. See fabric-covered buttons for a perfect match with fabric. For concealed neckline and corset fastenings, wire hooks and eyes are used, leaving mother-of-pearl buttons as visible accents. For lace blouses, choose smaller buttons with a concave centre to avoid weighing down the detail.

Sewing on delicate fabrics

• reinforce the placket with light fusible interfacing to prevent fabric tearing around the button;
• use fine polyester or silk thread matching the fabric;
• for silk, sew shank buttons with thread shanks to avoid puckering;
• check the buttonhole on a sample – fine fabric may “run” if the stitch density is low;
• do not iron over buttons; place a terry cloth underneath.

Lingerie, nightwear and children’s clothing

Small mother-of-pearl buttons 12L–14L are traditional for pajamas, nightgowns, silk lingerie and christening outfits. In these cases, natural material is an advantage as it is in direct contact with skin and contains no plastic. For baby clothes, buttons must be smooth, without sharp edges, and sewn very securely. If the garment will be frequently washed at high temperatures, consider alternatives.

Evening dresses and dark fabrics

On black, dark blue, burgundy and emerald dresses, white mother-of-pearl creates a strong contrast and becomes a decorative element. For a more discreet button, choose dark mother-of-pearl from black-lipped oyster or tinted mother-of-pearl matching the fabric – it retains iridescence without standing out. Large 24L–32L buttons with concave centres or rims suit shirt-style dresses, belts and sleeve cuffs. For velvet and heavy satin, pair mother-of-pearl with a shank so the button doesn’t sink into the fabric pile. When dresses have striking accessories, check that metal parts – buckles, clasps, chains – match the mother-of-pearl’s colour iridescence.

Common mistakes when choosing

• too large a button on a fine blouse, stretching the buttonhole and weighing down the placket;
• cold white mother-of-pearl on warm cream fabric;
• buttons with holes instead of shanks for tightly spaced buttons on dress backs;
• ordering without spare buttons from the same batch.

You can find standard and custom sizes in the mother-of-pearl buttons category.

Mother-of-pearl buttons from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags based in Sofia. We supply mother-of-pearl buttons for blouses, dresses and bridal collections, produce custom designs and samples for approval. Send an inquiry via the contact page – minimum order quantities depend on the item.