Mother-of-Pearl Buttons for Blouses, Dresses and Bridalwear

For blouses, mother-of-pearl buttons in sizes 14L–16L (about 9–10 mm) in white or cream mother-of-pearl, with two or four holes and a recessed centre, are the most common choice. Dresses and bridal styles with a long row of buttons down the back use even smaller 12L–14L buttons, often with a shank, while decorative accents on the neckline use larger 20L–24L buttons. The shade of the mother-of-pearl is chosen according to the fabric: pure white for optical white fabrics, cream or pinkish for ivory and champagne.

Why mother-of-pearl suits fine fabrics

Silk, satin, chiffon, batiste and fine cotton have a soft sheen and a delicate texture. A plastic button next to them often looks flat and “cheap”, while mother-of-pearl continues the play of light of the fabric. A mother-of-pearl button is also light compared with metal, so it does not pull on thin fabrics or distort the placket. It is no coincidence that in fashion history silk blouses and wedding dresses were among the first garments on which mother-of-pearl became the standard.

Mother-of-pearl buttons for blouses: how to choose

Size

• 12L–14L (≈ 7.5–9 mm) – very fine blouses, children’s styles, long rows on cuffs;
• 16L (≈ 10 mm) – the standard for the front of a women’s blouse;
• 18L (≈ 11.5 mm) – menswear-cut blouses, oversized shirts;
• 20L–24L (≈ 12.5–15 mm) – accent buttons on necklines, collars and pockets.

Colour of the mother-of-pearl

Compare the button in daylight, placed directly on the fabric. A white button on ecru silk looks bluish and “cold”, while a cream one on optical white cotton looks yellowish. For pastel blouses, natural white mother-of-pearl with coloured iridescence usually works well, because it picks up the shade of the fabric. For black and navy blouses, choose dark or dyed mother-of-pearl.

Holes or shank

Buttons with holes are more convenient for series sewing. Shank buttons (with a loop underneath) sit above the fabric, do not bunch it and are easier to unbutton – which is why they are preferred for closely spaced buttons down the back of dresses and for thick knits. A shank can also be a thread shank, formed when sewing on a button with holes.

Dresses with a long row of buttons

The classic bridal back with 20, 30 or more small buttons is an iconic detail. Here are a few practical rules:

1. Spacing – the buttons are placed close together, often 1.5–2.5 cm apart. Calculate the number from the length of the opening.
2. Fastening – instead of buttonholes, rouleau loops of cord or bias binding sewn along the edge are often used. This allows narrow spacing.
3. Invisible zip – on many wedding dresses the buttons are decorative, and the actual fastening is an invisible zip underneath. That way the bride dresses quickly while the look is preserved.
4. Spares – order a few spare buttons from the same batch so that there is no difference in shade when repairing.

Mother-of-pearl combined with other accessories

Mother-of-pearl buttons are often combined with fabric-covered buttons – for example mother-of-pearl on the front and covered buttons on the cuffs. Take a look at our fabric-covered buttons if you want a perfect match with the fabric. For concealed fastening on necklines and corsets, wire hooks and eyes are used, while the mother-of-pearl buttons remain the visible accent. For lace blouses choose a smaller button with a recessed centre so that the detail does not look heavy.

Sewing on fine fabrics

• reinforce the placket with a light interfacing so that the fabric does not tear around the button;
• use a fine polyester or silk thread matching the fabric;
• on silk, sew the buttons on with a thread shank so that the fabric does not bunch;
• check the buttonhole on a sample – fine fabric frays when cut if the stitching is sparse;
• do not iron over the buttons; place a towel underneath.

Lingerie, nightdresses and children’s clothing

Small 12L–14L mother-of-pearl buttons are traditional on pyjamas, nightdresses, silk lingerie and christening clothes. In these cases the natural material is an advantage, because it is in direct contact with the skin and contains no plastic. For baby clothing, the button must be smooth, without sharp edges, and sewn on very securely. If the garment will be washed often at high temperatures, consider an alternative.

Evening dresses and dark fabrics

On black, navy, burgundy and emerald dresses, white mother-of-pearl creates a strong contrast and becomes a decorative element. If you want the button to be more discreet, choose dark black-lip mother-of-pearl or dyed mother-of-pearl matching the fabric – it keeps the iridescence but does not stand out. Large 24L–32L buttons with a recessed centre or a rim look good on shirt dresses, belts and sleeve cuffs. On velvet and heavy satin, combine mother-of-pearl with a shank so that it does not sink into the pile of the fabric. On dresses with eye-catching accessories, check that the metal parts – clasps, buckles, chains – are in the same colour range as the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl.

Common mistakes when choosing

• a button that is too large for a fine blouse, stretching the buttonhole and weighing down the placket;
• cold white mother-of-pearl on a warm, cream fabric;
• buttons with holes instead of shank buttons for closely spaced buttons down the back of a dress;
• ordering without spare buttons from the same batch.

You will find styles in standard sizes and to order in the mother-of-pearl buttons category.

Mother-of-pearl buttons from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia, also selling wholesale. We offer mother-of-pearl buttons for blouse, dress and bridal collections, make styles to your design and produce samples for trial. Send an inquiry via the contact page – minimum quantities depend on the item.