Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
For mother-of-pearl shirt buttons, the standard is 18L (about 11.5 mm) for the front of a men’s shirt and 16L (about 10 mm) for a women’s blouse. Button-down collars, collar stands, cuffs and pockets usually use smaller 14L–16L buttons. A classic men’s shirt needs between 10 and 14 buttons depending on the style.
How buttons are measured: lignes and millimetres
In the garment industry, button diameter is given in lignes (L, from the German Linie). One ligne is 0.635 mm, and 40L is approximately one inch (25.4 mm). That is why shirt specifications show 16L or 18L rather than “10 mm”. When ordering, it is a good idea to give both values, especially if you work with different suppliers.
Mother-of-pearl shirt button sizes by position
| Position | Men’s shirt | Women’s blouse |
|---|---|---|
| Front (placket) | 18L ≈ 11.5 mm | 16L ≈ 10 mm |
| Collar stand | 16L–18L | 14L–16L |
| Button-down collar points | 14L ≈ 9 mm | 14L |
| Cuff | 16L–18L | 14L–16L |
| Sleeve placket (gauntlet) | 14L | 12L–14L |
| 16L–18L | 14L–16L | |
| Spare buttons | one of each size | one of each size |
The table reflects widely accepted practice, but it is not a rule. Italian-style shirts sometimes use denser and larger 20L buttons, while summer linen shirts use smaller ones for a lighter look.
How many mother-of-pearl buttons a shirt needs
The number depends on the style. To plan your order, you can calculate as follows:
- front – 6 to 8 buttons depending on the length and spacing (usually 8–10 cm between buttons);
- collar stand – 1 button;
- button-down collar – 2 more small buttons, and sometimes one at the back;
- cuffs – 1 or 2 buttons per cuff (2 on an adjustable cuff);
- sleeve plackets – 1 button each;
- pockets – 1 button per flap pocket;
- spares – 1–2 buttons, sewn on the seam or in a small bag.
Example: a men’s shirt with 7 buttons on the front, a button-down collar, double-button cuffs and spares needs about 7 buttons in 18L and 7–9 buttons in 14L–16L. Add a technical allowance for rejects during sewing, usually a few per cent.
Thickness, profile and holes
Thickness
Mother-of-pearl for shirts is valued when it is dense – a button about 2–3 mm thick at 18L looks solid and does not break. A button that is too thick, however, passes through the buttonhole of a thin poplin with difficulty. If the shirt is made of a very fine fabric, choose a thinner button or make the buttonhole 1–2 mm longer.
Profile
- flat – versatile, discreet, suitable for business shirts;
- recessed centre – the holes sit in a “bowl”, the thread is protected from wear and the button looks more crafted;
- with rim – a more expressive silhouette, often on linen and oxford shirts.
Two or four holes
Four holes are the standard on classic shirts – the button sits more firmly and does not tilt. Two holes give a cleaner look and are found on women’s blouses and summer styles. The spacing between the holes must match the button-sewing machine in your production.
Colour of the mother-of-pearl against the fabric
White mother-of-pearl is the classic choice for white, light blue and pastel shirts. Cream trochus suits linen and ecru fabrics, and dark mother-of-pearl suits black, navy and burgundy shirts, especially evening shirts. For striped and checked fabrics, choose the shade according to the lighter colour in the pattern. If the collection also includes jackets or trousers, coordinate the buttons with the others from our men’s buttons.
Special cases: dress, children’s and linen shirts
Dress shirt for a dinner suit. Here the front is often hidden under a fly placket, with only the collar stand and cuff buttons visible, or decorative stud buttons are used. The hidden buttons can be thinner and smaller, for example 14L–16L, because they are not seen, while the visible ones are chosen with a stronger lustre – white or dark mother-of-pearl depending on the jacket.
Children’s shirt. The proportions are smaller, so the front is usually 14L–16L. It is important that the button is sewn on securely, with a thread shank, and has no sharp edges.
Linen or summer shirt. Linen is a coarser, thicker fabric. Denser buttons with a matte or natural mother-of-pearl look are suitable, sometimes with two holes, which emphasise the informal character of the garment. Shirts with a Cuban collar use buttons only on the front.
Buttonhole and thread
The buttonhole length is usually the button diameter plus its thickness and a small allowance. For an 18L button (11.5 mm) with a thickness of 2.5 mm, that is about 15 mm. Make a trial buttonhole on a fabric sample before programming the machine. Sewing on uses a strong polyester or cotton thread matching the fabric – see our sewing threads.
Mistakes when choosing shirt buttons
- choosing the size from a photo only, without a sample on the real fabric;
- the same size for the front and the button-down collar – the small collar points look overloaded;
- spare buttons left out of the specification;
- mixing batches of different shades in the same shirt.
Browse the styles in the mother-of-pearl buttons category – they are available in the standard shirt sizes.
Ordering from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, also selling wholesale. We supply mother-of-pearl buttons in shirt sizes from stock, make samples and engrave logos on request. Send us the shirt specification and quantities via the contact page – we will suggest a suitable style.
