Manufacturer · Fashion Accessories
An open-end jacket zip is a zip whose two halves separate completely at the bottom by means of an insertion pin and a retainer box, so the jacket can be fully unzipped. A two-way open-end zip has two sliders and lets the jacket open from the bottom upwards too. With YKK Vislon both versions are standard for sports, winter and work jackets, gilets and hoodies.
Choosing the right type of zip is as important as the gauge. A closed-end zip on a jacket cannot be unzipped, and a one-way open-end zip on a long parka makes sitting down uncomfortable.
How an open-end jacket zip works
At the bottom of an open-end zip there are three elements:
- insertion pin – a rigid tip on one tape that is inserted into the box;
- retainer box – fixed at the bottom of the other tape; it holds the pin;
- reinforcement tape – a stiff coating on the tape in the pin and box area that makes insertion easier.
The user inserts the pin through the slider into the box and pulls the slider up. On a moulded zip the pin and box are solid and durable, which matters for products that are zipped many times a day.
Two-way open-end zip
A two-way zip has two sliders – top and bottom. The bottom one is reversed and moves upwards, opening the zip from below. The box is replaced by a movable mechanism in which the bottom slider acts as the box.
When it is needed
- long jackets and parkas that pull across the hips when sitting and walking;
- driving and work jackets – comfort in the car and at work;
- ski and snowboard jackets – when sitting on the chairlift;
- jackets where the wearer needs to reach a belt or trouser pocket;
- overalls and coveralls.
How it is closed
Both sliders are brought down to the bottom, the pin is inserted into the bottom slider and the top slider is pulled up. If the wearer is not used to it, it seems complicated the first few times – that is why some brands put a puller of a different colour or shape on the bottom slider.
Open-end, two-way and closed-end – comparison
| Type | Mechanism | Typical product |
|---|---|---|
| Closed-end | closed bottom end | pockets, trousers, backpacks |
| One-way open-end | pin + box, one slider | hoodies, short jackets, gilets |
| Two-way open-end | pin + bottom slider, two sliders | parkas, long jackets, work jackets |
| Two-way closed-end | both ends closed, two sliders | holdalls, luggage, sleeping bags |
How an open-end zip is measured
- The length is measured from the top of the top stop to the bottom of the retainer box.
- The free tape ends above the stop are not included.
- For a two-way zip the length is measured from the top stop to the bottom of the lower slider in the closed position.
- An open-end zip is not easily shortened in the factory – order the exact length for each garment size.
Reversible open-end zip
On some jackets the coil or teeth are turned so that the slider is on the inside or can be used from both sides. This option is used on reversible jackets and on styles with a covering placket, where the puller must be accessible from the inside. Discuss this option in your inquiry if the jacket construction requires it.
Zip direction: left or right
Most open-end zips are fitted with the pin on the left (from the wearer's point of view) and the box on the right. Some brands use the opposite direction on womenswear. The direction must be the same throughout the collection and clearly marked in the tech pack to avoid confusion in the factory. When ordering, specify whether you need the standard or reverse direction.
Open-end zips and chain type
The open end exists on all main lines, but its behaviour differs. On moulded Vislon the pin and box are solid, insert easily and withstand thousands of cycles – which is why it is preferred for jackets in intensive use. On coil zips the open end is lighter and finer, suitable for hoodies and light jackets. On metal zips it is the classic choice for denim and leather jackets. The chain and the type of end are chosen together, according to the weight of the product and frequency of use.
Puller on the bottom slider
With a two-way zip, consider whether the bottom slider should have its own puller in a different shape or colour. This helps the buyer tell the two sliders apart immediately and reduces complaints that the zip "won't close".
Mistakes that make production more expensive
- One open-end zip length for all jacket sizes.
- A one-way zip on a long parka – uncomfortable when sitting.
- A different pin direction in different styles of the collection.
- Too small a chain gauge for a heavy insulated jacket.
- Unreinforced tape ends at the box.
Open-end YKK Vislon and standard moulded zips
If the client requires YKK or you want a branded detail, choose from our YKK Vislon moulded zips. If the brand is not a requirement, open-end and two-way moulded zips are also available in our general range of moulded plastic zips. For lighter products, see also YKK coil zips with an open end.
Ordering through Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer and wholesaler of garment accessories. YKK is a third-party brand – we supply original YKK open-end and two-way zips in Bulgaria and the EU. Send an inquiry with the chain gauge, type, lengths per size, colour and slider – minimum quantities depend on the article.
