Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Thread numbering indicates the thickness of a thread. Two systems are used most: tex (weight in grams of 1000 m of thread – the higher the number, the thicker the thread) and the ticket number (a trade designation in which the higher the number, the finer the thread). As a rough guide, the ticket number is about 3000 divided by tex, but each manufacturer rounds in its own way.
Why thread numbering matters
The thickness of the thread determines the strength of the seam, the needle size, the tension setting and the type of seam. If the style specification says “ticket 120” and the warehouse has thread labelled “tex 30”, the technician needs to know that these are practically the same thread. Without this comparison it is easy to order the wrong article, and the mistake only shows on the machine – with skipped stitches, a puckered seam or broken thread.
The main thread numbering systems
Tex and dtex
Tex is the international system under ISO 1144. One tex means that 1000 metres of thread weigh 1 gram. Tex 30 thread weighs 30 g per kilometre, tex 60 weighs 60 g. The system is direct: the larger the number, the thicker the thread. Decitex (dtex) is a unit ten times smaller and is often used to describe the individual filaments, for example “dtex 167x2” – two filaments of 167 dtex twisted together.
Ticket number (Tkt)
The ticket number is the trade designation you see on most spools. It is an indirect system: ticket 120 is a fine thread for shirts and lingerie, while ticket 20 is a thick thread for jeans, bags or decorative stitching. The ticket number is calculated from the metric count of the yarn and the number of plies, so two threads with the same ticket from different manufacturers may differ slightly in thickness.
Metric count (Nm)
The metric count shows how many metres of yarn there are in one gram. A designation such as “Nm 120/2” means that Nm 120 yarn has been twisted into two plies. The system is found with cotton and polyester spun threads and in older catalogues.
Denier
Denier (den) is the weight in grams of 9000 m of filament. It is used mainly for synthetic filaments – polyamide and polyester. For example, 210D/3 means three filaments of 210 denier.
Numbering comparison chart
The values are approximate and serve for an initial choice. Make the final comparison using the specific manufacturer's catalogue.
| Ticket number | Approx. tex | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 180–150 | 16–20 | very fine fabrics, silk, lingerie |
| 120 | 24–27 | shirts, blouses, dresses, general sewing |
| 100 | 30 | trousers, workwear, home textiles |
| 80–75 | 35–40 | heavier fabrics, jackets |
| 50–40 | 60–80 | jeans, visible seams, upholstery |
| 30 | 105 | decorative stitching, leather, bags |
| 20–15 | 135–200 | thick decorative and heavily loaded seams |
How to convert tex to ticket number and back
For quick orientation use the formula ticket ≈ 3000 / tex. For tex 25 thread you get about 120, for tex 40 about 75, for tex 80 about 37. The formula is approximate because some manufacturers calculate the ticket from the metric count of the plies before twisting, and others from the finished thread. That is why you should always also check the recommended needle size on the spool label – it is the most practical guide.
What else the specification should state
Thread numbering on its own is not enough. To reorder exactly the same thread, record:
- fibre – polyester, polyamide, cotton, viscose;
- construction – spun, filament, core-spun (core with a wrap), textured, bonded;
- thickness – tex or ticket number, ideally both;
- twist direction – standard Z for most machines;
- colour – number from a colour card or a fabric swatch;
- put-up – length and type of spool or cone.
Common mistakes when reading thread numbers
- Mixing systems – “40” as a ticket number and “40” as tex are completely different threads.
- Assuming the same ticket means the same strength – a ticket 50 cotton thread is weaker than a polyester thread with the same number.
- Choosing thread without checking the needle – a thick thread in a narrow needle frays and breaks.
- Comparing threads only by spool length without taking thickness into account.
Which number for which use
For mass garment sewing, ticket 120 and 100 in polyester are used most often. For jersey and lingerie a finer thread is preferred, and for visible seams ticket 40, 30 or 20. In technical applications such as upholstery and car interiors, tex is mainly used because the specification there is stricter – see threads for the automotive industry. For everyday garment production browse sewing threads, and for natural fabrics cotton threads.
Numbering and thread consumption
Thickness also affects how many metres there are on one cone. At the same wound weight, a fine thread gives many more metres than a thick one, so prices and consumption are compared by length rather than by number of spools. When calculating an order, technicians use a consumption factor for each seam type – lockstitch, chainstitch, overlock – and multiply it by the length of the seams in the garment. If you change the thread number, check again how many cones the run will need.
Threads from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. In the threads category you will find various fibres and thicknesses, and our advisers will help you compare the numbering in your specification with the available range. Send us the style, the fabric and the desired seam via the contact page – we will suggest a suitable thread and a sample.
