Horn buttons are mainly divided by construction – two or four holes, shank and toggles – then by profile, finish and tone. Four-hole buttons are standard for suits, coats and shirts; shank buttons suit thick fabrics and decorative designs; toggles are typical for duffle coats and heavy outerwear. Finishes range from high gloss to natural matte, and tones from black through marbled to light horn.
Types of Horn Buttons by Construction
Four-hole
The most common type. Four holes allow secure sewing and prevent the button from turning. Used for jackets, suits, coats, vests and shirts. Sewn with parallel or cross stitch; jackets and coats often leave a thread shank.
Two-hole
More common on shirts, overshirts, knits and casual styles. They look cleaner and lighter. Less used on heavy fabrics because the load is carried by only two points.
Shank
The back has a protrusion with a hole through which the thread passes. The front remains fully visible – ideal for raised profiles, engraved logos and dome shapes. Shank buttons are used on thick fabrics, double-breasted coats, uniform styles and decorative details.
Toggles
Elongated buttons with one or two holes or a central channel, fastened with a loop. Traditional for duffle coats, capes, hunting coats and some knits. Secured with cord or leather strap.
Backing Buttons
Small flat buttons sewn inside under the main button. Rarely made of horn but sometimes used with horn buttons on high-end garments.
Types by Profile
- Flat – clean look, for shirts and fine jackets.
- Rim (frame) – classic profile with raised rim and recessed centre, protects thread from abrasion.
- Concave (cup) – deeper centre for volume.
- Dome (bombé) – convex face, often with shank buttons.
- Beveled rim – modern, geometric look.
- Rustic – irregular shape, natural horn texture preserved.
Types by Finish
| Finish | Description | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| High gloss | Mirror shine, clear pattern | Formal suits, tuxedos, cashmere coats |
| Semi-matte | Soft satin shine | Universal |
| Matte | Solid, darker | Tweed, flannel, knits |
| Natural matte | Coarse, hand-textured | Hunting and rustic clothing |
| Combined | Glossy rim, matte centre | Fashion collections, profile emphasis |
Types by Tone
- Black horn – even, almost no veins; for black and dark formal wear.
- Dark brown – most versatile; for dark blue, grey and brown fabrics.
- Marbled – dark base with copper, grey or beige veins; tweed, camel hair, velvet.
- Light horn – rarer and more valuable; linen and light summer fabrics.
- Dyed horn – horn coloured with natural pattern visible.
Types by Application
| Garment | Recommended Type | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Jacket and suit | 4 holes, rim, gloss or semi-matte | 32L front, 24L sleeve |
| Coat | 4 holes or shank, thicker | 36L–44L |
| Duffle coat | Toggle | Depends on model |
| Shirt | 4 or 2 holes, thin, semi-matte | 16L–18L |
| Knitwear | 2 or 4 holes, matte | 22L–32L |
| Hunting clothing | 4 holes or shank, natural matte | 24L–36L |
Combined Models
Besides classic types, horn buttons combined with other materials exist – for example, with a metal ring around the rim, leather inlay or engraved colour-filled logos. Used in fashion collections when the button should stand out. Learn more about customisation in the engraved buttons category.
Natural Horn or Imitation
All types also exist as imitation horn buttons made of polyester. These are more uniform and economical for large series. Natural horn is distinguished by density, cool touch and unique pattern – each button is one of a kind.
How to Choose the Type
- Start with the garment – it determines construction and size.
- Choose profile by style – classic rim, flat or dome.
- Select finish according to fabric – gloss for smooth, matte for textured.
- Pick tone matching fabric colour and other details.
- Request samples and compare on actual fabric.
Mixing Types in One Garment
Often a garment uses more than one horn button type: four-hole buttons on the front, shank buttons on epaulets, and toggles on the collar. It is important they all match in tone and finish to look cohesive. Order them together from the same batch.
Differences Visible Only Up Close
Two horn button models of the same size and tone may look different due to details: rim width, hole spacing, hole shape (round or slightly tapered) and edge bevel. These details affect function – for example, a wide rim protects thread from abrasion, tapered holes ease machine sewing. For long-lasting collections, compare samples closely and with a magnifier if needed – these details distinguish high-class buttons.
Horn Buttons from Polkom
Polkom manufactures all main types of horn buttons from natural buffalo horn – holes, shank and toggles – in various profiles, finishes and tones, with logo engraving options. Send us a request describing your garment – we will suggest the right type and produce samples. Minimum order quantities depend on the item.














