Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Sewing threads are classified by three main criteria: fibre (polyester, cotton, polyamide, viscose, silk), construction (spun, filament, core-spun, textured, bonded) and application (sewing, overlock, embroidery, technical). The right combination depends on the fabric, seam stress and machine type.
Types of sewing threads by fibre
Polyester threads
Polyester is the most common fibre for sewing threads. It is strong, hardly shrinks, tolerates washing and dry cleaning, and retains its colour. Suitable for over 80% of garments – from shirts to workwear. Available as spun (short fibres, matte appearance) and filament (continuous strands, smoother and stronger).
Cotton threads
Cotton is soft, matte and withstands high ironing temperatures. Used for linen and cotton garments, pieces dyed after sewing, and collections valuing natural fibres. Drawback: lower strength and less elasticity than synthetics. See more in the cotton threads category.
Polyamide (nylon) threads
Polyamide is very strong and abrasion resistant, with good elasticity. Used for heavy-duty seams – upholstery, leather, footwear, backpacks. More sensitive to UV than polyester.
Viscose and silk threads
Viscose has a strong shine and is mainly used for machine embroidery. Silk is fine, strong and smooth – for delicate fabrics, hand sewing and haute couture.
Types of threads by construction
| Construction | How it is made | Advantage |
|---|---|---|
| Spun | from short fibres, spun and twisted | soft, matte, easy to sew |
| Filament | from continuous strands | smooth, very strong |
| Core-spun | polyester core wrapped with polyester or cotton | strength plus good performance at high speed |
| Textured | threads with swollen, voluminous structure | softness, edge coverage, elasticity |
| Bonded | filament with polymer coating | does not fray, withstands heavy abrasion |
| Monofilament | single transparent strand | almost invisible seam |
Types of threads by application
General sewing threads
These are construction threads for straight and chain stitches. Mostly polyester spun or core-spun with ticket 120–80. See sewing threads in our catalogue.
Overlock and coverstitch threads
Overlock threads carry little load but must cover edges softly. Textured polyester is often used in loopers, with regular sewing thread in needles.
Embroidery threads
Polyester and viscose threads with high sheen, optimised for high-speed embroidery machines, plus metallic threads. They have their own numbering and colour charts – explore embroidery threads.
Technical threads
Threads for upholstery, automotive seats, footwear, leather, filters and protective clothing. Thicker, often bonded, sometimes UV stabilised or specially treated.
Elastic and special threads
Special types include elastic threads (with elastic core) for fabric gathering, water-soluble threads for temporary seams and embroidery, and transparent monofilament threads.
How to choose the right thread type
- Start with the fabric – weight, composition, elasticity.
- Determine seam stress – structural, decorative, edge finishing.
- Consider care – washing temperature, ironing, dry cleaning, dyeing.
- Choose thickness and needle size compatible with the machine.
- Make a test seam on the actual fabric before production.
Common thread combinations
- Shirts and blouses – polyester core-spun or spun ticket 120.
- Denim – core-spun ticket 120 for internal seams and ticket 40–20 for visible seams.
- Knitwear and sportswear – textured polyester in overlock, thin sewing thread in needle.
- Linen garments – cotton thread if garment will be dyed or natural fibre is valued.
- Leather and upholstery – bonded polyamide or thicker polyester.
How to identify thread type on the spool
Labels on cones or spools usually indicate fibre, thickness (ticket or tex), length and recommended needle size. If missing, a quick check is possible:
- Unravel the end – spun thread breaks into short fibres, filament into long smooth strands;
- Stretch – polyester and polyamide stretch slightly, cotton hardly at all;
- Check shine – viscose and filament shine, spun polyester and cotton are matte;
- Check coating – bonded thread is visibly harder and smoother, and does not fray when cut.
For mass production, do not rely on visual tests. Record exact article and colour in the technical sheet to reorder the same thread for the next batch.
Why thread quality shows in the finished product
Cheap thread often has uneven thickness, more fuzz and weaker colourfastness. On machines, this means more stops, breaks and cleaning; on garments, uneven stitches, seam puckering and faded seams after washing. The price difference is small compared to processing costs, so for serial production it is worth choosing a reliable thread that performs consistently batch to batch.
Wholesale threads from Polkom
Polkom delivers to garment factories, brands and ateliers across Europe with various types of sewing threads in a wide colour range. In the threads category you will find all main groups. If unsure which type suits your product, send us a description via the contact page – we will suggest a thread and provide a sample for testing.
