Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Metal zips are made mainly from three materials: brass, white metal (a light alloy in nickel colour) and aluminium. Brass is the strongest and most classic choice for jeans and leather goods, white metal gives a light, cool nickel colour, and aluminium is the lightest and most economical. The choice depends on the load, washing, contact with the skin and the budget of the product.
Metal zips: what the teeth are made of
In a metal zip, each tooth is a separate element clamped onto the textile tape. The material of the teeth determines strength, weight, colour, behaviour in the wash and the possible finishes. The slider is usually made of zinc alloy and finished in the same tone, but its material differs from that of the chain.
Brass
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It has a warm yellowish colour, high strength and good corrosion resistance. Brass zips are used on jeans, workwear, leather jackets and higher-end bags. Over time, natural brass develops a patina, which in denim is valued as part of the product’s character. Brass takes finishes such as antique, bronze, black nickel colour and gold well.
White metal (nickel colour)
These are teeth made of a light alloy with a silvery colour, or of a copper alloy with a light nickel-colour finish. They give a cool, “chrome” look, suitable for modern jackets, smart-casual styles and bags with silver hardware. An important question is contact with the skin: in the EU, nickel release from items in prolonged direct contact with the skin is restricted by the REACH regulation. Polkom metal zips are nickel free – “nickel” for them is only the name of the colour.
Aluminium
Aluminium teeth are considerably lighter than brass ones and usually more economical. They are suitable for jackets, sweatshirts, bags and products where weight matters, or for styles where the zip is more decorative. Aluminium can be anodised or painted in various colours. It is softer than brass, so for heavily loaded openings and heavy products brass remains the more reliable choice.
Comparison of materials
| Criterion | Brass | White metal (nickel colour) | Aluminium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Strength | Very high | High | Medium |
| Weight | Heavy | Heavy | Light |
| Colour without finish | Warm yellow | Silvery | Matte silvery |
| Patina over time | Yes, characteristic | Minimal | Minimal |
| Typical use | Jeans, leather, workwear | Jackets, bags, modern styles | Light jackets, bags, sweatshirts |
| Price level | Higher | Medium | Lower |
The price level is approximate and depends on size, length, finish and quantity – for a specific comparison, send a request for a quote.
How to choose the material for the product
- Jeans and denim – brass, often with an antique or bronze finish, matching the button and rivets.
- Leather jackets and bags – brass or nickel colour, depending on the colour of the other hardware.
- Transitional and smart-casual jackets – nickel colour or aluminium.
- Children’s clothing – our metal zips are nickel free, but for small children a lighter nylon coil or moulded zip is often more practical.
- Light products where every gram counts – aluminium.
Washing, corrosion and darkening
All metal zips react to moisture, chemicals and washing, but to different degrees. Natural brass darkens and develops a patina, which can be a desired effect on jeans. Light and painted finishes can wear at the edges of the teeth with aggressive industrial washing with pumice. Aluminium does not rust, but is more sensitive to mechanical wear.
If the product goes through stone washing, bleaching or enzyme washing, always test a sample of the zip before serial production. You will also find detailed advice on zip care under the metal zips in our catalogue.
Material versus finish – a common confusion
Buyers often look for a “gold zip” or a “black zip”, but that is a finish, not a material. A brass zip can come in a natural colour, antique, gold, nickel colour or black nickel colour. That is why it is good to state both in the inquiry: the material (for strength and weight) and the finish (for the look). If you use metal buttons or eyelets on the same product, send a sample so that the tone can be matched.
When metal is not the best choice
For swimwear, beachwear and technical products that are constantly wet, a metal zip is not practical. Nylon coil or moulded plastic zips are used there. The same goes for very fine fabrics – silk, chiffon, jersey – where the heavy metal chain pulls the fabric and lighter options are preferred.
The slider and the stops
The material of the teeth is not the only metal in the zip. The slider and puller are most often made of pressure die-cast zinc alloy, because it allows complex shapes, relief and a logo. The stops at the top and bottom ends are usually made of the same material as the teeth or of a compatible alloy. That is why, when ordering, it is checked whether the finish on the slider and on the teeth match exactly – the two metals take the finish differently, and without a sample a difference in tone is possible.
What to include in your inquiry
- Product and fabric – jeans, leather jacket, bag, thin or heavy fabric.
- Teeth material – brass, white metal (nickel colour) or aluminium, or leave the recommendation to us.
- Finish – natural, antique, gold, nickel colour, black nickel colour or matched to a sample.
- Size, length and construction – closed-end, open-end or two-way.
- Requirements for washing and skin contact – all our metal zips are nickel free.
- Approximate quantity and whether a logo slider is needed.
Metal zips from Polkom
Polkom has been manufacturing and wholesaling accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags for over 30 years. Our range includes brass, aluminium and white-metal zips in nickel colour – all nickel free – in various sizes, lengths and finishes, as well as custom logo sliders. Send us an inquiry with the type of product and the look you want – we will help you choose the material and prepare samples.
