Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Mercerised cotton thread is the most common choice for quilting and patchwork, because it behaves just like cotton fabrics in washing and ironing. A finer thread is used for piecing, and a heavier one for the visible quilting stitch. Cotton quilting thread is also chosen according to whether you sew by machine or by hand.
Why cotton thread for quilting
Patchwork and quilted items are usually sewn from cotton fabrics with wadding or fleece in the middle. When the top fabric, the backing and the thread are all made from the same fibre, the item shrinks evenly in the first wash and takes on the typical soft, slightly crinkled look. If you use a stronger synthetic thread, with wear it can cut through the cotton fabric instead of the seam breaking – and a seam is much easier to repair than the fabric.
Other advantages of cotton for these items:
- it withstands high-temperature ironing when pressing the seams;
- its matte look does not distract from the pattern;
- softness matters for baby blankets and throws.
Thread weight by stage
In patchwork, thickness is often given as “wt” (weight) – the higher the number, the finer the thread. The second figure, for example 50/3, shows the number of plied strands.
| Stage | Typical thread | Needle |
|---|---|---|
| Piecing | fine cotton 50 wt, 2- or 3-ply | 70–80 |
| Machine quilting | cotton 40 wt or 50 wt | 80–90, quilting needle |
| Decorative quilting | cotton 30–28 wt | 90–100 |
| Hand quilting | glacé (waxed) cotton | short quilting needle (between) |
| Hem and binding | cotton 40–50 wt | 80 |
A fine thread is used for piecing so that the seams lie flat and do not form a bulge when pressed to one side. In the quilting itself the thread is visible, so a heavier one is chosen.
Machine and hand quilting
Machine
On a machine, use only mercerised cotton without wax. If your machine supports it, work with a walking foot or a darning foot for free-motion quilting. The bobbin thread should ideally be the same weight or one step finer, in a colour close to the backing.
Hand
Hand quilting uses glacé thread – cotton with a wax or resin coating. It is stiff, does not twist and does not tangle when pulled through the three layers. This thread should never go into a sewing machine, because the coating builds up in the tension mechanism.
When quilting by hand, work with lengths of about an arm’s length – a longer thread wears from being pulled through the layers again and again and starts to fray. The knot at the start is buried between the layers with a gentle tug, so that it is visible neither on the top nor on the back. The stitches should be of equal length; their evenness matters more than the length itself. Experienced quilters load several stitches at once by rocking the needle instead of passing it through the layers one stitch at a time.
How to choose the colour
- A neutral tone for piecing – a light grey, beige or cream thread “disappears” into the seam on most multicoloured fabrics.
- A blending colour for quilting – when the stitching should add texture, not a drawing.
- A contrasting colour – when the quilting stitch is part of the design.
- Different colours top and bottom – acceptable if the tension is set precisely, so that no dots of the other colour show.
Common mistakes
- Waxed thread in the machine – leads to tension problems and residue build-up.
- Thread that is too heavy for piecing – the pieces shift and the corners do not match.
- Tension that is too tight – the three layers pucker and the item becomes distorted.
- Old, dried-out thread – cotton loses strength and breaks in the middle of the work.
- An untested stitch – always sew a test on scraps of the same layers before the main work.
How much thread you need
Quilting uses a surprising amount of thread, especially with dense patterns and free-motion work. That is why, for larger items and production runs, it pays to work with cones instead of small spools. This also avoids shade differences between spools from different dye lots – on a large quilt even a slight colour difference shows in the quilting stitch. If you use several colours, order them all at once and note the lot number on each cone.
When planning the quantity, take into account:
- the size of the item and the density of the pattern;
- whether you quilt in straight lines or free motion;
- the bobbin thread, which is used in almost the same quantity;
- samples and test pieces before the main work.
Quilting in series production
In the production of bedspreads, duvets, quilted jackets and quilted accessories, the choice of thread also affects working speed. Cotton thread is suitable for items made from natural materials. For quilted jackets made from synthetics and fabrics with a water-repellent finish, polyester from the sewing threads range is more suitable, because it does not shrink and withstands moisture.
Browse the available cotton threads or the general threads section.
Threads and accessories from Polkom
Polkom is a Sofia-based manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, with over 30 years of experience. We supply threads, buttons, labels and zips to ateliers and factories across the EU. Send an inquiry via Contact with the type of item, the fabrics and the colours you want, and we will suggest a suitable thread and a sample.
