Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Faux leather or genuine leather for labels – the choice depends on the brand's positioning, how the product is cared for and the budget. Genuine leather gives an authentic look and develops a patina over time, but varies from batch to batch. Faux (PU) leather has an even colour, more predictable behaviour in the wash and a wider colour range. Here is a detailed comparison to help you decide.
What genuine leather for labels is
Genuine leather is processed animal hide – most often cowhide. Both the grain side and split leather with a finished surface are used for labels. By tanning method there are two main groups:
Vegetable-tanned
Processed with tannins of plant origin. It is firmer, takes debossing and laser perfectly, darkens with light and wear and develops a patina. It is sensitive to water – it may darken and shrink slightly when wet.
Chrome-tanned
Softer, more supple and more water-resistant. Available in more colours. Debossed relief is shallower, and laser contrast weaker.
What faux leather is
"Eco leather" or "vegan leather" are trade names for a synthetic leather-look material – most often a textile base with a polyurethane (PU) coating. PVC materials are sometimes found too, but PU is preferred for garment labels because it is softer and more flexible. The term does not necessarily mean the material is environmentally friendly – it denotes an alternative to animal leather. On labels and in product descriptions it is more accurate to say "faux leather" or "PU" when this matters to your customers.
The quality of faux leather varies considerably – from thin materials with a smooth coating to dense versions with a texture almost indistinguishable from genuine leather. That is exactly why a sample is more telling than the name of the material.
Faux leather or genuine leather: comparison by criteria
| Criterion | Genuine leather | Faux (PU) leather |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Living texture, each label slightly different | Even surface, uniform look |
| Ageing | Patina, softening, darkening | Keeps its look; over time the coating may crack |
| Washing | May change tone and shrink slightly | More predictable behaviour |
| Colours | Natural tones and a limited choice of dyed ones | Wide palette, including bright colours |
| Debossing | Excellent, with natural contrast | Good, with careful temperature |
| Laser | Excellent on vegetable-tanned | Depends on the coating, a sample is needed |
| Price | Higher | More affordable |
| Origin | Animal | Synthetic |
Feel, thickness and wearing comfort
A label is not just a visual element – it touches the body or other parts of the garment. Genuine leather is denser and "warmer" to the touch, but a thick label can be stiff at first and only soften with wear. Faux leather is usually thinner and flexible straight away, which is an advantage on knitted beanies, T-shirts and childrenswear. With thick genuine leather the edges can be finished – painted or rounded – so they do not irritate.
Think about weight too: a large leather label on light jersey can pull the fabric down. In such cases a thinner material or a smaller size gives a better result than a more expensive leather.
What about jacron?
Jacron is the third common option for jeans. It is a cellulose-based material with a leather look that is light, dimensionally stable and very suitable for printing and debossing. It is economical for large series and is associated with the classic look of the jeans patch. It does not like high temperatures in the tumble dryer or when ironed.
When to choose genuine leather
- Premium, vintage or artisanal collections, where patina is an advantage.
- Products that are not washed often – jackets, bags, belts, wallets.
- Brands for which "real leather" is part of the product story.
- When you want debossing with a natural dark contrast without ink.
When to choose faux leather
- Large series where uniform colour is critical.
- Modern or sports collections with bright or corporate colours.
- Products washed often – childrenswear, sports bottoms, knitwear.
- Brands that do not use animal-derived materials.
- When the per-piece label budget is limited.
Labelling a garment with a leather label
If a textile product contains non-textile parts of animal origin – such as a genuine leather label – Regulation (EU) 1007/2011 requires this to be stated on the composition label with the phrase "Contains non-textile parts of animal origin". With faux leather this statement is not necessary. This is another practical difference to take into account when preparing care and composition labels.
A practical approach: test both materials
If you are undecided, ask for a sample in both materials with the same design. Sew them onto the product, wash them together and compare them after several cycles. This way you will see the real difference in colour, softness and shape and can decide based on your own product rather than general descriptions. If the label needs to be softer and unobtrusive, you could also consider a woven label as the main marking and keep the leather one for the visible spot.
Genuine and faux leather labels – Polkom
Polkom, a label manufacturer, produces leather labels in genuine leather, faux leather and jacron with a logo to your design. We will advise you on which material suits the product and the brand's positioning and prepare samples for comparison. Send an inquiry via our contact page.
