Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Horn button sizes are measured in ligne (L), where 1L equals 0.635 mm. The most common sizes are 16L–18L (10–11.5 mm) for shirts, 24L (15 mm) for sleeves and cardigans, 32L (20 mm) for jacket fronts, and 36L–44L (23–28 mm) for coats. For natural horn, thickness also matters as it affects the button’s strength and appearance.
What is ligne (L) and why is it used?
The ligne (from French “ligne”) is a traditional unit of measurement in the button industry. It is internationally accepted by manufacturers and allows for quick, unambiguous size communication. To get the diameter in millimeters, multiply the number of lignes by 0.635. For example, 24L × 0.635 = 15.24 mm. Always specify sizes in lignes when ordering to avoid confusion between diameter, radius, and rounding.
Chart: Horn Button Sizes
| Ligne | Millimeters | Typical Horn Button Use |
|---|---|---|
| 14L | 8.9 mm | Shirt collar buttons, sleeve vents |
| 16L | 10.2 mm | Shirt front and cuffs |
| 18L | 11.4 mm | Shirts, fine knitwear, shirt pockets |
| 20L | 12.7 mm | Jacket inner pockets, trousers, overshirts |
| 22L | 14.0 mm | Cardigans, knitwear |
| 24L | 15.2 mm | Jacket sleeves, cardigans, epaulettes |
| 26L | 16.5 mm | Suit cardigans, cardigans |
| 28L | 17.8 mm | Hunting jackets, flap pockets |
| 30L | 19.1 mm | Modern slim jackets |
| 32L | 20.3 mm | Classic jacket fronts |
| 34L | 21.6 mm | Double-breasted jackets, wide lapels |
| 36L | 22.9 mm | Coats, loden jackets |
| 40L | 25.4 mm | Coats, double-breasted coats |
| 44L | 27.9 mm | Double-breasted and heavy coats |
| 48L | 30.5 mm | Accent button on oversized coats |
Thickness – the second important dimension
For plastic buttons, thickness is usually consistent per model. For natural horn, thickness depends on the raw material, so it should be specified in the product specification. Rough guidelines:
- Shirts (16L–18L) – thin buttons, about 2–3 mm thick, to easily pass through small buttonholes.
- Jackets (24L–32L) – medium thickness, about 3–4 mm.
- Coats (36L–44L) – thicker buttons, about 4–5 mm or more, for durability with heavy fabrics.
Too thin a button for a large diameter may crack, while too thick a button can make fastening difficult.
How to measure a horn button
- Use calipers, not a ruler – a half-millimeter difference matters.
- Measure the widest diameter of the button face, including the rim.
- Divide the result by 0.635 to get the size in lignes, rounding to the nearest standard size.
- Measure thickness separately at the highest point.
- For buttons with shanks, thickness is measured excluding the shank; shank height is measured separately.
Since horn is a natural material, measure several buttons from the sample batch – small variations are normal.
Button size and buttonhole length
The buttonhole should be slightly longer than the button diameter to allow the button to pass freely without stretching the buttonhole. The usual rule is buttonhole length = button diameter + button thickness + about 2–3 mm. For thicker horn buttons, the buttonhole is made longer. Therefore, the button size should be known before cutting and sewing buttonholes.
How many buttons of each size?
When ordering a batch, calculate buttons by size per garment. For example, a double-breasted suit with a vest might need: 6–7 buttons sized 32L–34L for the jacket front, 8 buttons 24L for sleeves, 1–2 buttons 20L for inner pockets, 5–6 buttons 24L for the vest, and 4–8 buttons 20L for trousers. Add spare buttons and extra for tone sorting.
Common size selection mistakes
- Specifying size in millimeters without clarifying diameter or radius.
- Choosing buttons after sewing buttonholes.
- Using the same size for jacket front and sleeves.
- Omitting thickness in the specification.
- Using large buttons on slim, modern jackets – disrupting proportions.
Sizes for women’s garments
Women’s jackets and coats often use the same sizes as men’s but with more ease. Designers choose larger buttons as accents – for example, 40L on a short women’s jacket – or smaller, finer buttons for a sleek silhouette. For women’s shirts and blouses with horn buttons, sizes 14L–16L are common, one size smaller than men’s shirts. Proportion to the garment cut is more important than the standard, so sampling on the actual garment is the best guide.
Variations in natural horn
Horn buttons are lathed with high precision, but as a natural material, small thickness and diameter variations within a batch are normal. This is usually not a problem for sewing workshops as long as buttons pass freely through buttonholes and feed smoothly into sewing machines.
Sizes for imitation horn buttons
The sizing system is the same for imitation horn buttons, so you can mix natural and imitation horn buttons in the same sizes for combined collections. The difference is in thickness consistency and weight. Full size information for other buttons is available in their respective categories.
Horn buttons in all standard sizes from Polkom
Polkom manufactures and delivers natural buffalo horn buttons in standard sizes – from fine shirt buttons to large coat models – with tone selection and logo engraving options. If you are unsure about sizing, send us a sample or garment description via the contact form – we will advise you. Minimum order quantities depend on the item.
