Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Lace is sewn with a fine needle (size 60–80), a matching polyester thread and a stitch suited to the type of lace: straight stitch for non-stretch lace and a narrow zigzag for stretch lace. A lace trim is sewn over the edge or inserted into the seam, while wide lace is joined by overlapping along the outline of the motif so that the seam is invisible. Always test your settings on a sample.
How to sew lace – preparation
Before you start, determine three things: the type of lace (stretch, non-stretch, guipure, cotton), the attachment method (visible edge, concealed seam, appliqué) and the base fabric. The needle, thread and stitch depend on these.
- Needle – universal 70–80 for cotton and denser laces, 60–70 for fine polyamide laces, a jersey or stretch needle for stretch laces.
- Thread – polyester matching the lace; for cotton laces on cotton fabric, a cotton–polyester thread can be used. Choose a suitable count from our sewing threads – a finer thread for fine laces.
- Stitch – length 2–2.5 mm for straight stitch; width 1.5–2.5 mm for zigzag.
- Presser foot – standard, or for thin and slippery laces a Teflon-coated foot or a walking foot.
Before cutting, wash or decatise the lace if it is cotton and there is a risk of shrinkage.
Technique 1: lace trim over an edge
The most common case – narrow lace along a hem, sleeve or neckline.
- Finish the edge of the fabric – with an overlock or a narrow hem.
- Lay the lace on the right side of the fabric so that its straight edge overlaps the fabric edge by a few millimetres.
- Secure with pins every 5–10 cm or with hand tacking.
- Sew with a straight stitch or narrow zigzag along the straight edge of the lace.
- Press the seam from the wrong side.
For a cleaner look, the lace can be sewn under the edge – the folded edge of the fabric is laid over the lace and topstitched right along the edge.
Hand sewing
For fine and expensive laces, and when restoring old garments, lace is sewn on by hand with small hidden stitches through its straight edge. The method is slow but gives the most delicate result and lets you follow the motif precisely.
Technique 2: lace in the seam between two fabrics
Used when the lace emerges from the seam as a frill or edge, for example on a collar or the bottom edge of a pocket.
- Lay the lace on the right side of the first piece, with the decorative edge facing inwards.
- Tack along the seam line.
- Place the second piece right sides together and sew through all three layers.
- Turn and press – the lace emerges from the seam.
Technique 3: joining wide lace by overlapping
On lace dresses and blouses, a classic seam with seam allowances shows through the openwork. It is better to:
- Cut the pieces with extra allowance around the motifs at the side seams.
- Lay one piece over the other, matching the seam lines.
- Sew with a narrow zigzag along the outline of the motifs on the top layer, not in a straight line.
- Carefully trim the excess lace on both sides close to the seam.
The seam follows the motif and practically disappears. This technique is standard for wedding dresses and guipure.
Technique 4: lace as appliqué
Cut the motifs from wide lace or guipure, arrange them on the fabric, secure with tacking or temporary textile adhesive and sew along the outline with a hidden hand stitch or a narrow zigzag. If the base fabric under the appliqué is to be removed (window effect), cut it away carefully after sewing.
Technique 5: lengthening a dress with lace
A frequently sought solution for dresses, skirts and jackets that have become too short.
- Choose lace with a width equal to the desired extension plus 1–2 cm for sewing.
- Unpick the hem and press the edge.
- Sew the lace on using technique 1 or 2, placing the joining seam of the lace at the side seam of the dress.
- If the dress is lined, lengthen the lining too or leave it shorter so the lace shows through.
Stretch lace
On lingerie and close-fitting garments, stretch lace is sewn with a zigzag, without stretching it (unless the design requires slight gathering). A stretch needle is used. A detailed description can be found in our article on stretch lace.
Common problems and solutions
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| The lace is pulled into the machine | fine lace, large needle plate opening | a finer needle, paper underneath that is torn off afterwards |
| Snags and pulled threads | blunt or thick needle | a new needle in a smaller size |
| Puckering along the seam | thread tension too high | reduce tension, lengthen the stitch |
| Broken seam on stretch lace | straight stitch | zigzag or three-step zigzag |
| Seam visible through the openwork | contrasting thread | matching or clear thread |
Tips for series production
- Make a sample in every size and check that the lace is applied consistently.
- Determine exactly where the joining seams of the lace fall – ideally at the side seams.
- Order the entire quantity from one batch so the tone is consistent.
- Record the machine settings (needle, stitch, tension) in the model's technical sheet.
Finishing touches
Lace is often combined with narrow satin ribbon – for bows, edgings or threading through openwork holes. Use them in a coordinated colour so the garment looks finished.
Lace and sewing haberdashery from Polkom
Polkom is a manufacturer and wholesaler of haberdashery and garment accessories based in Sofia. We offer a wide choice of lace – trims, stretch, cotton and guipure – together with threads and ribbons in coordinated colours. We work with ateliers and manufacturers across the EU and send samples quickly. Send an inquiry stating the type of lace and the quantity.
