How to Thread a Sewing Machine – Upper Thread and Bobbin

Polkom
How to Thread a Sewing Machine – Upper Thread and Bobbin

How to thread a sewing machine: raise the presser foot and the needle to the highest position, put the spool on the pin, pass the thread through the top guide, down between the tension discs, up through the take-up lever, down again through the guides to the needle, and thread the needle front to back or left to right depending on the model. Then insert the wound bobbin into the shuttle and bring the bobbin thread up.

Before you start

  • Raise the presser foot. This is the most important rule: with the foot raised, the tension discs open and the thread goes in between them. With the foot lowered, the thread passes beside the discs and the stitch forms loops underneath.
  • Needle in the highest position. Turn the handwheel towards you until the take-up lever is raised as far as it goes.
  • Suitable thread. For most home projects a polyester sewing thread tkt 120 is suitable. Cut the end at an angle so that it goes into the needle eye more easily.
  • Switch off the machine or at least do not press the pedal while threading.

How to thread a sewing machine: the upper thread

  1. Place the spool. On a horizontal pin, fit a spool cap so that the spool does not jump. On a vertical pin, use a felt pad. The thread should unwind freely.
  2. Top guide. Pass the thread through the guide above the spool, usually at the top left of the machine.
  3. Down to the tension unit. Bring the thread down the front channel and pass it between the discs of the tension regulator. Pull it lightly to feel that it has gone in.
  4. Around the check spring. On many machines the thread catches on a small spring (for compensation) that jumps when pulled.
  5. Up to the lever. Bring the thread up and pass it through the hole or hook of the take-up lever. This is the step most often missed.
  6. Down through the guides. Bring the thread down to the needle, passing through the guides above it – usually one on the body and one on the needle bar.
  7. Thread the needle. On most domestic machines – front to back; on some older models – left to right. The direction matches the long groove of the needle. Pull 10–15 cm of thread back under the foot.

Specifics of different machines

The thread path is almost the same on all machines, but the position of the guides differs. On older machines such as treadle Singers, Luchnik and Union, the thread often passes through extra guides on the face plate, and the needle is threaded left to right. On modern models the path is marked with arrows and numbers on the body. Always follow the manual for the specific model if you have it.

How to wind the bobbin on a sewing machine

  1. Put an empty bobbin on the bobbin winder (the pin is usually at the top right).
  2. Pass the thread from the spool through the winding guide and wind a few turns by hand.
  3. Push the winder against the stop. On many machines this automatically stops the needle; on older models loosen the small wheel in the centre of the handwheel.
  4. Press the pedal evenly. The winding should be tight and even, not in lumps.
  5. Stop before the bobbin fills to the edge and cut the thread.

Do not wind new thread over leftover thread of a different colour or type. Use bobbins intended for your model – bobbins that look the same at first glance differ in height and material.

How to insert the bobbin

Horizontal (drop-in) hook

Open the cover in front of the foot, insert the bobbin so that the thread unwinds in the direction shown on the cover (usually anticlockwise) and guide the thread through the groove to the slit. Close the cover.

Vertical hook (with bobbin case)

Put the bobbin into the bobbin case so that when the thread is pulled it turns clockwise. Pass the thread through the slit under the tension spring of the case. Hold the case by the latch and insert it into the hook until it clicks. This type is standard on industrial lockstitch machines and on many older domestic machines.

How to bring up the bobbin thread

Hold the end of the upper thread with your left hand. With your right hand, turn the handwheel towards you one full turn, until the needle goes down and comes back up. Pull the upper thread – it will draw up a loop of the bobbin thread. Pull the bobbin thread out and lay both ends back under the foot. The machine is now ready to sew.

Common threading mistakes

MistakeResult
Threading with the foot loweredLoops under the seam
Take-up lever missedThe thread tangles immediately, the needle unthreads
Needle threaded in the wrong directionSkipped stitches, breakage
Bobbin inserted the wrong way roundUneven bobbin tension
Thread caught in the notch of the spoolJerky pull, breakage
Thread too thick for the needleThe thread rubs and frays

How to thread cones on a domestic machine

If you buy thread on cones, place the cone on a separate stand behind the machine. The thread goes up through the stand’s telescopic guide and then continues along the usual threading path from the machine’s top guide. Do not put the cone directly on the spool pin.

Checking after threading

Before sewing the garment, sew a few rows on a scrap of the same fabric folded in two layers. Look at the seam from both sides: the stitches should look the same, without loops and without dots of the other thread. If something is wrong, first rethread the upper thread and only then touch the tension regulator.

Threads for sewing machines from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags. We supply sewing threads on cones and spools for industrial and domestic machines, cotton threads for natural fabrics and the full range of threads. For ateliers, factories and retailers – send an inquiry via Contact with the types and colours you need.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Why does the needle unthread on the first stitch?
Most often there is not enough free thread behind the needle at the start of the seam, or the take-up lever is not in its highest position. Pull 10–15 cm of thread back under the foot and hold both ends for the first two or three stitches. If the problem persists, check that the thread passes through the take-up lever and that the needle is inserted correctly.
How can I thread the needle more easily?
Cut the thread at an angle with sharp scissors so that there is no frayed end. Place a white sheet of paper behind the needle for better visibility. Use the built-in needle threader if the machine has one, or a small wire threader. With thick thread, change to a larger needle size – the eye will be wider and the thread will go in without effort.
Do I need to rethread if the thread breaks?
Yes, when the upper thread breaks it is safest to remove the thread and rethread the whole path with the foot raised. The thread often jumps out of the take-up lever or the tension discs when it breaks. If you only rethread the needle, you risk loops underneath and another break. Also check the cause of the breakage.
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