Industrial Sewing Threads – How to Choose Thread for Garment Production

Polkom
Industrial Sewing Threads – How to Choose Thread for Garment Production

Industrial sewing threads are threads designed for industrial sewing machines running at several thousand stitches per minute. They are distinguished by an even thickness, consistent strength, a special finish (lubricant) to reduce friction and winding on large cones. Choosing the right industrial thread reduces breakages, downtime and complaints in garment production.

How industrial thread differs from household thread

At first glance the two threads look the same. The difference lies in the conditions in which they work. At high speed the needle heats up from friction with the fabric, the thread passes through the needle eye many times before forming a stitch, and it is loaded sharply every time the stitch is tightened. That is why industrial sewing threads must meet higher requirements:

  • Finish. A lubricant coating that reduces friction and protects the thread from overheating. Without it, at high speed the thread breaks or melts.
  • Evenness. Thick and thin places lead to uneven tension and skipped stitches.
  • Balanced twist. Incorrectly twisted thread curls and forms loops before the needle.
  • Winding. Cones unwind over the top without stopping; loose winding leads to tangling.
  • Consistency between batches. In series production, every new delivery must behave like the previous one.

Main types of industrial sewing threads

TypePropertiesTypical use
Spun polyesterSoft, versatile, good valueShirts, dresses, blouses, overlock
Core-spun (polyester/cotton or polyester/polyester)High strength, heat resistantJeans, workwear, jackets
Filament polyesterVery strong, smooth, lustrousBags, leather, footwear, technical textiles
Textured polyester or polyamideBulky, stretchy, softLoopers on overlock and coverstitch machines
Mercerised cottonMatte, takes dye, withstands high temperaturesNatural products, garment dyeing

You will find all these types in the sewing threads and cotton threads sections.

How to choose industrial sewing threads for each operation

A garment factory rarely uses only one thread. Good practice is to set a specification for each operation, not for the whole product.

Lockstitch machine

This is where the main joining and visible seams are made. Strength and a clean look are needed, so spun polyester or core-spun is used, with a ticket number to suit the fabric. The bobbin thread can be slightly finer than the needle thread so that the bobbin holds more.

Overlock and chainstitch machines

Chainstitches consume many times more thread than lockstitch. For the loopers, a thread is chosen that covers well and is economical – spun or textured polyester. The needle threads must be strong and smooth.

Buttonholes, buttons and bartacks

Buttonhole and button-sewing automats require a smooth thread with good glide and an exact colour. For buttonholes a finer, more lustrous thread is often used for dense coverage, and for sewing on buttons a strong thread that does not loosen.

Special threads

Some productions require threads with specific properties: flame-retardant for protective clothing, chlorine-resistant for medical and hotel linen, with increased UV resistance for outdoor products, or water-repellent for tents and bags. These requirements must be stated in the inquiry, because they change the type of fibre and the treatment of the thread.

What to include in the specification

  1. Type of thread and fibre (for example core-spun polyester/cotton).
  2. Thickness – ticket number or tex.
  3. Colour – a colour card code or a fabric sample.
  4. Put-up – metres per cone.
  5. The machine and operation it is intended for.
  6. Special requirements – resistance to high-temperature washing, flame retardancy, chlorine resistance and others.

A clear specification lets you order the same thread every time and compare quotes from different suppliers fairly.

How to test thread in the factory

  • Speed test. Sew at full speed for at least a few metres through the thickest part of the product. The number of breakages is the most telling indicator.
  • Seam test. Stretch the seam crosswise and lengthwise; on knitwear it must not pop.
  • Wash test. Wash the sample according to the care instructions and check shrinkage and colour.
  • Abrasion test. Rub the visible seams with a coarse fabric – fuzzy, worn spots indicate a weak thread.

What the price depends on

The price of industrial sewing threads depends on the type of fibre and construction, the thickness, the length per cone, the colour (standard or specially dyed) and the total quantity. A cheaper thread often turns out more expensive in production because of breakages, machine downtime and rework. That is why you should compare the cost per finished garment, not just the price per cone.

Common mistakes when choosing

  • The same thread for all operations – a saving on stock, but more breakages on the heavily loaded machines.
  • Choosing only on price per cone, without a speed and wash test.
  • No record of the dye lot – on a reorder the colour differs.
  • A thread that is too thick "to be safe" – the seam puckers the fabric and looks coarse.
  • Storing cones in the sun or next to heating – the thread dries out and loses strength.

Industrial sewing threads from Polkom

Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We supply industrial sewing threads wholesale to garment factories and brands throughout the EU, together with zips, buttons, labels and the other accessories from the threads category and related sections. Send us a list of the operations, machines and colours via Contact – we will suggest suitable threads and samples for testing. Minimum quantities depend on the article.

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FAQ

Frequently asked questions

What is a thread finish and why is it important?
The finish is a lubricant coating applied to the thread during production. It reduces friction in the tension discs, guides and needle eye. At the high speeds of industrial machines the needle heats up, and thread without a finish can melt, fray or break. A good finish ensures an even seam and less machine downtime.
Can industrial threads be used on a household machine?
Yes. Industrial sewing threads also work on household machines, provided the thickness matches the needle. Most household machines work well with ticket 120 and 100. The cone is placed on a separate stand behind the machine, because it does not fit the spool pin. Seam quality often improves thanks to the evenness of the thread.
How many different threads does a garment factory need?
It depends on the product range. A knitwear factory may work with two types – spun polyester for the needles and textured for the loopers. A jeans and workwear factory usually has core-spun for construction seams, a thick thread for decorative topstitching and a separate thread for buttonholes. The list is determined by the operations, not by the number of products.
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