Industrial sewing threads are threads designed for industrial sewing machines running at several thousand stitches per minute. They are distinguished by an even thickness, consistent strength, a special finish (lubricant) to reduce friction and winding on large cones. Choosing the right industrial thread reduces breakages, downtime and complaints in garment production.
How industrial thread differs from household thread
At first glance the two threads look the same. The difference lies in the conditions in which they work. At high speed the needle heats up from friction with the fabric, the thread passes through the needle eye many times before forming a stitch, and it is loaded sharply every time the stitch is tightened. That is why industrial sewing threads must meet higher requirements:
- Finish. A lubricant coating that reduces friction and protects the thread from overheating. Without it, at high speed the thread breaks or melts.
- Evenness. Thick and thin places lead to uneven tension and skipped stitches.
- Balanced twist. Incorrectly twisted thread curls and forms loops before the needle.
- Winding. Cones unwind over the top without stopping; loose winding leads to tangling.
- Consistency between batches. In series production, every new delivery must behave like the previous one.
Main types of industrial sewing threads
| Type | Properties | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Spun polyester | Soft, versatile, good value | Shirts, dresses, blouses, overlock |
| Core-spun (polyester/cotton or polyester/polyester) | High strength, heat resistant | Jeans, workwear, jackets |
| Filament polyester | Very strong, smooth, lustrous | Bags, leather, footwear, technical textiles |
| Textured polyester or polyamide | Bulky, stretchy, soft | Loopers on overlock and coverstitch machines |
| Mercerised cotton | Matte, takes dye, withstands high temperatures | Natural products, garment dyeing |
You will find all these types in the sewing threads and cotton threads sections.
How to choose industrial sewing threads for each operation
A garment factory rarely uses only one thread. Good practice is to set a specification for each operation, not for the whole product.
Lockstitch machine
This is where the main joining and visible seams are made. Strength and a clean look are needed, so spun polyester or core-spun is used, with a ticket number to suit the fabric. The bobbin thread can be slightly finer than the needle thread so that the bobbin holds more.
Overlock and chainstitch machines
Chainstitches consume many times more thread than lockstitch. For the loopers, a thread is chosen that covers well and is economical – spun or textured polyester. The needle threads must be strong and smooth.
Buttonholes, buttons and bartacks
Buttonhole and button-sewing automats require a smooth thread with good glide and an exact colour. For buttonholes a finer, more lustrous thread is often used for dense coverage, and for sewing on buttons a strong thread that does not loosen.
Special threads
Some productions require threads with specific properties: flame-retardant for protective clothing, chlorine-resistant for medical and hotel linen, with increased UV resistance for outdoor products, or water-repellent for tents and bags. These requirements must be stated in the inquiry, because they change the type of fibre and the treatment of the thread.
What to include in the specification
- Type of thread and fibre (for example core-spun polyester/cotton).
- Thickness – ticket number or tex.
- Colour – a colour card code or a fabric sample.
- Put-up – metres per cone.
- The machine and operation it is intended for.
- Special requirements – resistance to high-temperature washing, flame retardancy, chlorine resistance and others.
A clear specification lets you order the same thread every time and compare quotes from different suppliers fairly.
How to test thread in the factory
- Speed test. Sew at full speed for at least a few metres through the thickest part of the product. The number of breakages is the most telling indicator.
- Seam test. Stretch the seam crosswise and lengthwise; on knitwear it must not pop.
- Wash test. Wash the sample according to the care instructions and check shrinkage and colour.
- Abrasion test. Rub the visible seams with a coarse fabric – fuzzy, worn spots indicate a weak thread.
What the price depends on
The price of industrial sewing threads depends on the type of fibre and construction, the thickness, the length per cone, the colour (standard or specially dyed) and the total quantity. A cheaper thread often turns out more expensive in production because of breakages, machine downtime and rework. That is why you should compare the cost per finished garment, not just the price per cone.
Common mistakes when choosing
- The same thread for all operations – a saving on stock, but more breakages on the heavily loaded machines.
- Choosing only on price per cone, without a speed and wash test.
- No record of the dye lot – on a reorder the colour differs.
- A thread that is too thick "to be safe" – the seam puckers the fabric and looks coarse.
- Storing cones in the sun or next to heating – the thread dries out and loses strength.
Industrial sewing threads from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We supply industrial sewing threads wholesale to garment factories and brands throughout the EU, together with zips, buttons, labels and the other accessories from the threads category and related sections. Send us a list of the operations, machines and colours via Contact – we will suggest suitable threads and samples for testing. Minimum quantities depend on the article.














