Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
An invisible zipper foot is a special presser foot with two grooves on its underside. The grooves hold the coil of the invisible zip, roll it open to the side and let the needle pass right next to the teeth. After sewing, the zip disappears into the seam. There are universal plastic feet with adapters, metal feet for a specific machine brand and industrial feet for sewing machines in factories.
What an invisible zipper foot is and how it works
A regular zipper foot is narrow and one-sided – it allows stitching close to the chain but does not roll it open. An invisible zip, however, has a coil turned inwards towards the tape. To remain invisible, the stitching must run in the groove between the coil and the tape, about a millimetre from the teeth. This is exactly what an invisible zipper foot does:
- the left and right grooves take the coil when you sew the corresponding side of the zip;
- the edges of the groove roll the coil open and hold it upright;
- the needle passes through the centre opening right next to the coil.
The result is stitching that stays hidden under the coil when the zip is closed.
Types of invisible zipper feet
| Type | Material | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|---|
| Universal | Plastic | Affordable, with adapters for different machines, transparent | Wears faster, less precise |
| Original for a machine brand | Metal or metal with plastic | Exact fit, stable stitching | Suitable only for specific models |
| Adjustable | Metal | Position relative to the needle can be adjusted | Requires adjustment when changing the zip |
| Industrial | Metal | Durable, for series production | Only for industrial machines |
Type of attachment (shank)
Before buying a foot, check the attachment type of your machine. Domestic machines have a low, high or slant shank, and many modern models use snap-on feet. Universal plastic feet are usually sold with several adapters. Industrial machines have their own foot standards, and a foot designed for the specific machine type is usually chosen.
Groove size
Most feet are designed for the most common invisible zip with a fine coil (No. 3). With larger invisible zips or very fine ones (No. 2), the groove may not fit perfectly. If you work with different sizes, check compatibility or use an adjustable foot.
How to use the foot step by step
- Fit the foot so that the needle passes exactly through the centre opening. Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the foot.
- Open the zip and press the coil flat with a cool iron.
- Place the zip right side to right side of the fabric, with the coil on the seam line.
- Lower the foot so that the coil enters the right-hand groove (for the left side of the zip).
- Sew from top to bottom until the foot reaches the slider, and backtack.
- For the second side, the coil goes into the left-hand groove.
- Finish the seam below the zip with a regular zipper foot.
Can an invisible zip be sewn with a regular foot?
It can, but with compromises. With a regular one-sided zipper foot, the coil has to be rolled open by hand while sewing, and the stitch rarely gets close enough. The zip often remains partly visible, especially on thin and light fabrics. If you sew invisible zips regularly – in an atelier or in production – an invisible zipper foot pays for itself very quickly through time saved and better quality.
Plastic or metal foot
A plastic foot is transparent, which helps you see the coil, and it is economical. However, it wears out faster and the grooves can wear down with frequent use. A metal foot is more stable, glides better over fabrics such as satin and denim and lasts for years. For home use a plastic foot is sufficient; for professional work, a metal or industrial one.
Common problems with the foot
- The needle hits the foot – the foot is not centred or the adapter is wrong. Check by hand before sewing.
- The coil slips out of the groove – the zip has not been pressed open or is being stretched while sewing.
- The stitching is far from the coil – the groove does not suit the zip size, or the foot is adjustable and needs setting.
- The fabric puckers – reduce the presser foot pressure and stabilise the seam allowances with fusible tape.
The foot in series production
In garment factories, invisible zips are often sewn on an industrial lockstitch machine with a metal invisible zipper foot, sometimes with separate feet for the left and right sides. This speeds up the work because the operator does not have to change the position of the zip in the groove. For large runs, guide attachments that feed the zip at a precise angle are also used. Whatever the equipment, the principle remains the same: the coil must be rolled open and the needle must pass as close to it as possible.
Caring for the foot
Clean lint and threads out of the grooves after every larger run – accumulated fibres displace the coil and impair the stitching. Check plastic feet for cracks and worn edges, because even a small deformation of the groove leads to an uneven stitch. With industrial feet, check that the fixing screw has not been loosened by vibration.
Invisible zips for garment factories and ateliers
A good tool only delivers results with a quality zip: an even coil, a soft tape and a slider that runs smoothly. Polkom manufactures and delivers invisible zips in a wide range of colours and lengths, as well as original YKK invisible zips. Browse the full zips category. Send an inquiry with the colours and lengths – we will prepare samples.
