Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
There are six main label fold types: a straight-cut label with no fold, end fold, centre fold, Manhattan fold (folded ends plus a centre fold), mitre fold and loop fold. The fold determines how the label is sewn on – around the outline, along the ends or caught in a seam – and how it looks on the garment. The choice depends on the label position, the product and the desired look.
Label fold types: comparison
| Fold | How it is sewn | Typical position | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight cut (no fold) | On all four sides | Lining, inside of the collar | Requires an edge that does not fray |
| End fold | Along the two short ends | Back neck, lining | Clean look, no visible cut edges |
| Centre fold | Caught in a seam | Collar, side seam | Fastest to sew, hangs freely |
| Manhattan fold | Caught in a seam | Collar of premium garments | Folded ends plus a centre fold |
| Mitre fold | Caught in a seam | Side seam, hem | Both ends come out at an angle |
| Loop fold | Caught in a seam | Towels, jackets, coats | Also serves as a hanging loop |
Straight-cut label with no fold
A straight-cut label is simply a cut rectangle. It is sewn on all four sides, so it suits places with enough fabric – the lining of jackets and coats, the inside of bags, a wide collar band. The edges must be sealed with a hot or ultrasonic knife so they do not fray. Woven labels can also be made with folded side edges for an even cleaner look.
Advantages and disadvantages
- The largest visible area relative to the tape size.
- The label lies flat and does not stick out.
- Sewing it on takes more time.
End fold
The two short ends are folded back and the label is sewn on with two short seams at the left and right. The cut edges are hidden, so it looks finished. This is the classic option for the brand label in the back neck of shirts, blouses and jackets. When planning the design, remember that the folded ends reduce the visible length.
Centre fold
The label is folded in half and both open ends are caught in a seam. It hangs freely and is visible from both sides. It is widely used for care labels in the side seam and for brand labels in the collar seam. The advantage is speed – the label is sewn in at the same time as the seam itself, without a separate operation. Important: the design must be positioned so that it reads correctly after folding, and on care labels the text often continues on the reverse.
Manhattan fold
A combination of folded ends and a centre fold. The label looks like a small envelope caught in the collar seam. It gives a solid, premium look and hides all cut edges. It is preferred for brand labels on more expensive garments. It uses slightly more tape than a simple centre fold.
Mitre fold
Both ends of the label are folded at an angle, usually 45 degrees, to form a point or "eave". The label is caught in a seam and sits as a triangle or trapezoid. It is used for flag labels in the side seam or hem and for decorative labels that need to be visible on the outside.
Loop fold
The label is folded into a loop and both ends are caught together in a seam. Besides carrying the brand, it serves as a hanging loop for the garment or towel. It is found on jackets, coats, towels and kitchen textiles. A stronger tape is chosen for a loop because it carries a load.
How the fold affects the design
- Visible area. Every fold hides part of the tape. Mark the visible zone and the seam zone in the design.
- Text direction. With a centre fold the front and back are different halves of the tape – the design must be oriented correctly.
- Double-sided label. On woven labels the back is a mirror image of the front. Printed labels can carry different information on each side.
- Material. A thicker tape is harder to fold and sits bulkier. For a centre fold in the collar, choose a soft material.
Cutting the edges
Folding is closely linked to cutting. Hot cutting seals synthetic tape but can leave a slightly harder edge. Ultrasonic cutting gives a softer edge – important when the edge touches the skin. With end folds or Manhattan folds the cut edges are hidden, so comfort is better. If the label is straight cut and sits in the collar, choose a soft edge.
How to choose
- Decide on the label position – collar, side seam, lining, hem.
- Consider whether the label will be caught in a seam or sewn on separately.
- Choose the type according to style: Manhattan or end fold for a premium look, centre fold for speed and functionality.
- Test a sample on the actual garment.
All fold types are available for woven labels and textile labels. You will find the whole range in the clothing labels category.
Labels with the right fold – Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of sewing accessories based in Sofia with over 30 years of experience. We make custom labels with your logo in the chosen fold and cut, produce fast samples and deliver across the EU. Send a description of the product and the label position via our inquiry form – we will recommend the right fold. Minimum quantities depend on the article.
