Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Good machine embroidery threads are smooth, with an even thickness, low stretch and stable colour. For most designs, a polyester or rayon (viscose) thread in weight 40 is chosen with a 75/11 needle, and underneath a finer bobbin thread in white or black. Polyester is for frequent washing and workwear, rayon for a soft sheen in fashion.
What to look for in machine embroidery threads
An embroidery machine sews at high speed with very frequent changes of direction. The thread passes through tensioners, guides and the needle hundreds of times a minute, so even a small irregularity immediately shows as breaks, loops or a "beard" along the edge of a fill. These are the parameters that really matter:
- Even thickness. Thicker sections jam in the needle, thinner ones break.
- Smoothness and finish. Embroidery threads are treated with a softener and lubricant that reduce friction.
- Controlled stretch. Thread that is too elastic shrinks the embroidery and puckers the fabric.
- Colour fastness. The colour must withstand washing, ironing and light according to the type of item.
- Proper winding. Cones and spools must unwind the thread evenly, without loops and without excessive tension.
Polyester or rayon for machine embroidery
This is the first choice you make. Polyester thread is stronger and does not bleach with chlorine products. It is suitable for uniforms, workwear, sports kits, towels and anything washed at 60 °C. Rayon is softer, with a deeper sheen and very rich shades, and is preferred for fashion and decorative items. If you are unsure, polyester is the safer choice for series production.
Weight and needle
| Thread weight | Recommended needle | When it is used |
|---|---|---|
| 30 | 80/12–90/14 | Dense, raised fill, towelling, fleece |
| 40 | 75/11 | Standard for logos, lettering and most designs |
| 60 | 65/9–70/10 | Small text under 5 mm, fine details |
A higher number means a finer thread. The design (embroidery file) is usually digitised for weight 40 thread. If you change the weight, the stitch density must be adjusted, otherwise the embroidery will be either sparse or too stiff.
Bobbin thread
In machine embroidery, the bobbin thread is not visible from the front, so a finer and cheaper thread is used – usually white for light fabrics and black for dark ones. It reduces the overall thickness of the embroidery and allows the top thread to be pulled slightly to the back, which gives a clean edge. If the bobbin thread "shows" at the front, the problem is usually the tension, not the thread.
Cones or spools
For industrial multi-head machines, threads are bought on large cones, which reduces changes and downtime. For single-head and home embroidery machines, smaller spools are more convenient. When choosing, look at how many colours you use often: it makes sense to keep the brand's core colours (white, black, corporate shades) on large cones and rarely used ones on smaller spools.
Storing threads
Embroidery threads are sensitive to light, dust and dry air. Direct sunlight bleaches the outer windings, and dust sticks to the softener and then collects in the needle. Keep cones in closed boxes or cabinets, away from radiators. Rayon, which is more sensitive to drying out, is best stored at normal room humidity. Threads that have been left out for a long time should first be tested on a piece of fabric before being used in production.
Machine embroidery thread set or individual colours
Ready-made sets are convenient for getting started – they give a basic palette with which to test designs. For production, however, it is more practical to order by colour: that way you have more of the colours you actually use and avoid unused stock. For corporate logos, choose the exact shades from a colour card and set them as the standard for all future orders.
What the price of machine embroidery thread depends on
The price is not determined only by the number of cones. The main factors are:
- the raw material – polyester, rayon, cotton or metallic thread;
- the weight and the length on the cone;
- special properties – flame retardance, UV reaction, matte effect;
- the number of colours and the quantity of each colour;
- the need to match a shade to a sample or Pantone.
For an accurate quote, it is best to send an inquiry with the type of thread, the colours and the approximate quantities.
Common problems and how to avoid them
- Thread breaks – check the needle (worn or the wrong size), the thread path and the tension.
- Loops on top – usually the top thread tension is too low or the thread is not seated properly in the tensioner.
- Puckered fabric – a suitable stabiliser is missing or the design density is too high.
- Fraying with metallic threads – reduce the speed and use a larger needle with an elongated eye.
Embroidery threads are only one part of branding a garment. For construction seams use sewing threads, and for the brand inside – textile labels. You will find the full range of machine threads in the embroidery threads category.
Ordering from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, with over 30 years of experience and more than 10,000 articles. We advise embroidery workshops and brands on the type of thread, weight and needle, match colours to a sample and provide quick samples. We deliver across the EU. Minimum quantities depend on the article – send an inquiry via the contact page.
