Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
A metal jacket zip must be open-end (with a separating bottom end), most often size No. 5 for light and transitional jackets and No. 8 for winter, leather and work styles. For jackets and coats over about 80–90 cm, a two-way open-end zip is chosen, which also opens from the bottom. The length is determined by the opening of the finished garment, not by the pattern.
Metal jacket zip: open-end or two-way
On jackets, the zip is the main closure and carries the full load when putting the jacket on and taking it off. Unlike trousers, here the zip must separate completely into two parts, which is why an open-end zip is used. At its bottom end there is a “box and pin” mechanism: the pin from one tape goes into the box on the other, after which the slider moves upwards.
- One-way open-end zip – the standard for short and medium-length jackets, sweatshirts, gilets and denim jackets.
- Two-way open-end zip – has two sliders and can also be opened from the bottom. It is suitable for parkas, long jackets and coats, where the bottom needs to open when sitting or walking.
On jackets, closed-end zips are used only for pockets, sleeves, vents and hoods.
Which size of metal jacket zip
| Size | Type of jacket | Character |
|---|---|---|
| No. 3–4 | Pockets, sleeves, light shirt jackets | A fine, unobtrusive chain |
| No. 5 | Denim, transitional, bomber jackets, sweatshirts | Universal size |
| No. 8 | Winter, leather, work and motorcycle jackets | Substantial chain, high strength |
| No. 10 | Heavy outerwear, statement styles | A distinctly chunky look |
The number roughly corresponds to the width of the closed teeth in millimetres. A larger size gives higher strength, but also a stiffer and heavier front edge, so on thin fabrics it is best not to overdo the size.
Metal jacket zip 90 cm and other lengths
The search “metal jacket zip 90 cm” is typical of long jackets, parkas and coats. Approximate lengths for open-end zips:
- children’s jackets – about 30–50 cm;
- short women’s and men’s jackets, bombers – about 45–65 cm;
- mid-thigh jackets – about 65–80 cm;
- parkas and coats – 80–100 cm and more.
The length of an open-end zip is measured from the bottom of the box to the top stop. Measure the finished opening of the garment – from the bottom hem to the top edge of the collar or to the point where you want the zip to stop – and subtract a few millimetres for the seams. Shortening open-end zips from the bottom is not recommended, because that is where the mechanism is; if necessary, shortening is done from the top by removing teeth and fitting new top stops.
Material, finish and tape
Jackets use brass, aluminium or white-metal teeth in nickel colour (nickel free). Brass is the strongest and has a rich, warm colour, white metal is light and cool, and aluminium is lighter and more economical. Fashion jackets are often made with antique brass, black nickel colour, bronze or graphite finishes, which match the eyelets and other metal hardware.
The tape is chosen in the colour of the fabric or in contrast. On winter jackets with down or synthetic wadding, check that the tape is dense enough not to let the filling through the seam.
Slider and puller
On jackets, the slider is often non-lock or semi-auto lock so that it opens easily. The puller must be large enough to grip with gloves on winter styles – textile or leather pullers are often added here. The slider is also the most visible place for the brand logo.
Basic rules for sewing an open-end zip into a jacket
Even a well-chosen zip can look bad if it is sewn in inaccurately. In serial production and in the atelier, follow a few rules:
- Mark the levels of the pockets, seams and collar on both tapes at the same time so that the horizontal lines match after closing.
- Do not stretch the tape when sewing – the metal chain does not stretch, and any stretching leads to waves along the front edge.
- Leave a gap of a few millimetres between the edge of the fabric and the teeth so that the slider does not catch the fabric.
- On bulky and down jackets, add a fusible tape along the front edge to stabilise the seam.
- Check that the box is level with the hem and does not stick out below it.
These details decide whether the zip will close smoothly with one hand or require effort every time the jacket is put on.
When to choose another type of zip
A metal zip is not the only option for a jacket. For sports and technical styles, where weight and flexibility are more important, moulded plastic zips or nylon coil zips are used. They are lighter, do not freeze in the cold and do not oxidise. Metal remains the preferred choice for classic, denim, leather and work jackets, where look and strength come first.
Common questions when ordering
- Does the length match the opening for all sizes in the range?
- Is a one-way or two-way zip needed for the length of the style?
- Does the finish match the buttons and eyelets?
- Should the slider have a logo or a puller?
- Are closed-end zips in the same finish needed for the pockets?
If the answers to these questions are clear before ordering, the sample is usually approved first time.
Metal jacket zips from Polkom
Polkom manufactures and supplies metal zips for jackets – open-end and two-way, in various sizes, lengths and finishes, including custom logo sliders. We work with brands, sewing factories and ateliers throughout Europe. Send an inquiry with the style, the lengths by size and the finish and we will prepare samples.
