Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Plastic or metal zip – the choice depends on the product. A moulded plastic zip is lighter, does not rust and performs better in cold and damp conditions, which is why it is the standard on sports and winter jackets, workwear and backpacks. A metal zip is the classic for jeans, leather goods and bags, where a heavy, premium look and coordination with metal accessories are valued.
Plastic or metal zip: in brief
Both types have individual teeth arranged in two rows, which is why they look similar. The difference lies in the material and the technology: metal teeth are stamped and clamped onto the tape, while plastic teeth are moulded directly onto its edge. This is where the differences in weight, behaviour in the wash and appearance come from.
| Criterion | Moulded (plastic) zip | Metal zip |
|---|---|---|
| Teeth material | Polyacetal (POM) | Brass, aluminium, white metal (nickel colour, nickel free) |
| Weight | Light | Heavier |
| Corrosion | Does not rust | Possible tarnishing and oxidation |
| Cold | Does not freeze, not cold to the touch | Gets cold, can stick when frozen |
| Colours | Unlimited, contrast teeth | Finishes: nickel colour (nickel free), gold, antique, black |
| Industrial washing | Copes well | Requires careful choice of finish |
| Look | Sporty, modern | Classic, premium |
| Ironing | Not directly on the teeth | Tolerates higher temperatures |
Strength
The question “which is stronger” has no clear-cut answer. At a comparable size number, a metal zip usually has a higher crosswise breaking strength of the chain, which is why it is preferred for heavy leather jackets and luggage. A moulded zip is also very strong, and in No. 8 and No. 10 it withstands the loads of winter jackets, backpacks and workwear. The weak point of a moulded zip is a single tooth under a hard impact; that of a metal zip is oxidation and deformation of the teeth when bent.
In practice, it is more important that the size number matches the load than what the material is. A No. 5 metal zip on a heavy jacket will perform worse than a No. 8 moulded zip.
Weight and comfort
On a long jacket zip, the difference in weight is noticeable. A moulded zip is lighter and does not pull the front down, which matters on light down and windbreaker jackets. Plastic does not get cold like metal, so a moulded zip is more pleasant under the chin in winter. On children’s jackets this is an additional argument.
Moisture, salt and cold
If the product will be exposed to rain, snow or the seaside, a plastic zip is the safer choice. Metal zips can tarnish and, in a salty environment, oxidise and hinder the movement of the slider. A moulded zip does not freeze, and the slider moves smoothly even at sub-zero temperatures.
Washing and garment processing
For garments that go through industrial washing, enzyme treatment or garment dyeing, a metal zip requires careful selection of the finish, so that it does not stain the fabric or lose its colour. A moulded zip copes more easily with most washing processes, but does not tolerate direct high-temperature ironing or pressing on the teeth.
Look and branding
A metal zip conveys quality and tradition – which is why it dominates on jeans, leather jackets and classic bags. Its finish coordinates with eyelets, rivets and metal buttons. A moulded zip offers colour freedom: teeth in neon, contrasting or transparent colours, tape in the brand colour. That is why sports and outdoor brands prefer it. With both types, the slider and puller can carry a logo.
Sewing and processing in the factory
For the sewer, the difference between the two types is not great – both are sewn with a zip foot. There are, however, a few practical nuances. A metal zip is heavier and stiffer, so on thin fabrics it can “pull” the front and create waves; good stabilisation with interfacing is needed. A moulded zip is lighter and follows the fabric better. Shortening either type requires removing teeth and fitting new stops, so with both it is more sensible to order the exact lengths. For final pressing of a moulded zip, a press cloth is used or only the areas around the chain are ironed.
Combining in one collection
You do not have to choose only one type. Many brands use a moulded zip on the front of the jacket and metal zips on the pockets as an accent, or vice versa. It is important to select the colours and finishes as a set, and to keep the sliders and pullers in one style.
Factors that affect the price
We cannot give a general rule about “which is cheaper”, because the price depends on several factors:
- size number and length;
- type – closed-end, open-end or two-way;
- for metal zips – metal and finish;
- for moulded zips – standard or special teeth colour;
- type of slider and puller, presence of a logo;
- quantity and whether the article is in stock or made to order.
For a specific comparison, send a request for a quote with both options.
Which zip for which product
| Product | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Ski and winter jacket, parka | Moulded |
| Sweatshirt, track top | Moulded or nylon coil |
| Workwear | Moulded or metal, depending on style |
| Jeans, denim jacket | Metal |
| Leather jacket | Metal |
| Children’s jacket | Moulded |
| Hiking backpack | Moulded or nylon coil |
| Women’s handbag | Metal or nylon coil |
How to decide for your collection
- Define the wearing conditions – outdoors, damp, cold, or an urban environment.
- Define the brand’s look – sporty or classic.
- Check the washing and processing of the garment.
- Request samples of both types and sew them into a prototype.
- Test – washing, load, operation with gloves on.
Browse the full range of moulded plastic zips and metal zips, as well as the general zips category.
Polkom – moulded and metal zips in one place
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags, based in Sofia, with over 30 years of experience. All our metal zips are nickel free. We can send you samples of both types, colour-matched to your sample and with logo sliders, so you can compare them on an actual garment. Send an inquiry with a description of the style.
