Manufacturer · Fashion & Home Accessories
Quality sewing machine thread is smooth, with an even thickness, a balanced twist and sufficient strength and elasticity. It does not shed lint, does not curl into loops as it unwinds, is wound tightly and evenly on the cone or spool and keeps its colour in the wash. The surest way to recognise it is a quick hand test and a sample on your own fabric and machine.
Why thread quality matters so much
Thread is a small part of the cost of a garment, but it affects almost everything: how often the machine stops, how many seams need reworking, how the garment looks after washing and how long it lasts. Low-quality thread sheds lint that collects under the needle plate and in the hook, breaks at high speed and changes the stitch tension. In a sewing factory this means lost time for every operator.
How to recognise quality sewing machine thread
1. Smoothness and lint
Run 30–40 cm of thread between your fingers against the light. Quality sewing thread is smooth, with no protruding fibres and no sticky feel. If you see a lot of fuzz, the thread will leave lint in the machine and rub against the needle.
2. Even thickness
Look at the thread closely or with a magnifier. There should be no thick slubs and no thin spots. Unevenness leads to uneven tension and breakages.
3. Balanced twist
Cut about 50 cm of thread and bring the two ends together, letting the middle hang freely. Good thread hangs in a relaxed arc or turns only a few times. If it immediately twists into a plait, the twist is unbalanced and it will form loops when sewing.
4. Strength and elasticity
Hold the thread in both hands and pull it smoothly. Quality thread stretches slightly and breaks with a distinct effort. If it breaks with almost no resistance, or at a different place each time, this is a sign of weak or old yarn.
5. Winding
The cone or spool should be wound tightly and evenly, with no loose layers, ridges or visible knots. Poor winding makes the thread feed in jerks.
6. Colour
The colour should be even along the whole length. Rub a wet thread on a white cloth – it should not release dye. Compare two cones of the same colour for a difference in shade.
7. Label
Serious manufacturers state the fibre type, the thickness (ticket number or tex), the length and the colour code. Without this data, repeat orders and comparisons become difficult.
Signs of low-quality thread during sewing
| Symptom | Likely cause in the thread |
|---|---|
| A lot of lint under the needle plate | Short fibres, poor finishing |
| Frequent breakages at high speed | Low strength, no lubricating finish |
| Loops before the needle | Unbalanced twist |
| Uneven stitching with correct tension | Uneven thickness |
| Puckered seam after washing | Thread shrinkage |
| Fading or staining of the fabric | Poor colour fastness |
Quality relative to use
"Quality" does not mean the most expensive. What matters is that the thread suits the job. A fine spun polyester with excellent smoothness is a quality choice for shirts but too weak for jeans. For heavily stressed seams look for core-spun, and for natural products and garment dyeing – mercerised cotton from the cotton threads section. Choose the type first, then the thickness, and only then compare quality between sources.
How to compare two threads before buying wholesale
- Request samples of the same type, thickness and colour.
- Sew a few metres with each thread on the same machine, fabric and settings.
- Note the breakages, the lint and the look of the seam.
- Wash the samples according to the care instructions of the product.
- Compare shrinkage, colour and seam strength after washing.
- Calculate the cost per finished garment, not per cone: include consumption and downtime.
Storage also affects quality
Even excellent thread deteriorates if it sits in direct sunlight, next to a radiator or in very dry air. Keep cones in closed boxes, use older batches first and do not keep colours you rarely sew for years.
Thread quality and the machine
Sometimes the thread is blamed unfairly. Before rejecting a batch, check the needle (new, with the right size and point), the cleanliness of the hook, threading with the presser foot raised and whether there are scratches on the guides. If the problem remains with a new needle and a clean machine but disappears with another thread, then the cause really is the thread. Note the batch and inform the supplier with a sample of the seam.
Quality threads for different machines
- Lockstitch machine – smooth spun polyester or core-spun, even in thickness.
- Overlock and coverstitch machine – threads on cones in the same shade; textured thread for the loopers.
- Embroidery machine – special embroidery threads with sheen and embroidery bobbin thread, not ordinary sewing thread.
- Buttonhole machines – fine, smooth thread with excellent glide and accurate colour.
Quality threads from Polkom
Polkom is a Bulgarian manufacturer of accessories for fashion, furniture, footwear and bags with over 30 years of experience. We offer sewing threads for industrial and domestic machines and the full range of threads for sewing and embroidery. Order a sample, test it on your machines and fabrics and then plan your order. Write to us via Contact to request a quote and samples.
